Help-CODES

[Trlr8tdd]

Had a death wobble, no worries, drove a few more miles then BAM, cruise control kicked off service traction control illuminated. Got home and pulled the following codes:
C2227-00
P0063-9A
B0415-00
P2226-00
U0415-00
C0051-28
U1514-87
U0418
U0168
CatalystNtRdy

I have a feeling wherever these all run together is unplugged or burnt on a cat.
Any ideas?

Sponsored

 

[Jclow801]

When my steering wheel isn’t decently straight it throws a handful of errors, and the pre-collision, ABS, traction control, and ACC all get disabled and require service. Once I straighten the wheel & go a few miles, they clear themselves after a restart. Not sure if this is helpful as I don’t get CEL… But I thought I’d comment anyway just in case.

 

[Trlr8tdd]

Thanks for the info! Agreed. After checking wiring, connections etc. I drove on the hiway a few miles, exited and shut down/restarted, all but 3 codes were gone and everything is working. Going to rotate tires tomorrow and set drag link/steering angle. She’s drivable as of now.
Remaining codes are P0415, C2227 and P0063-9A but no CEL and everything is working.

 

[Deleted member 52902]

On a hunch, I looked at just two of your codes and found a common denominator on two sensors; Low voltage level. My hunch being that because this is your 2020 Gladiator, I am heading down the path that your Auxiliary battery has, or is failing which becomes a detriment in available voltage B+ voltage that the Main battery is still trying to provide on its own. The alternator-charging system may boost enough some of the time to provide a voltage minimum that satisfies some or all of the sensors and electronics. Sometimes when the demand is higher but when one or both batteries are not up to par, many strange things are happening in 2018+ Wranglers and all Gladiators. Have you ever replaced both batteries yet? Or at least the AUX battery but neither of the factory batteries seem to live beyond 2 to 3 years for many owners.

I do not want to take you down the wrong path by hunch. I didn't decipher more than two codes to see this low voltage level commonality. But.... I would find it very unlikely that two different sensors themselves, presented low voltage levels to their own electronics. By the way, in your first message, you listed B015-00. Later you listed P015 as one of three remaining codes. I imagine one of these is a typo?

I am rooting for your issue to be easily solved and quick to take care of, whatever it is.

 

[Trlr8tdd]

I agree with your TS but, both batteries have been replaced and the AUX replaced again last month.
I checked capacity, it showed excellent without isolation of the batteries. I also placed a smart charger in the system and after various charge/trickle cycles, it always showed a good charge.
Currently driving her, no CEL, everything works. I’ll see how it progresses and am ready to change battery/batteries. Engine running 13.8v 12.5 not running. Seems pretty healthy.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

On a hunch, I looked at just two of your codes and found a common denominator on two sensors; Low voltage level. My hunch being that because this is your 2020 Gladiator, I am heading down the path that your Auxiliary battery has, or is failing which becomes a detriment in available voltage B+ voltage that the Main battery is still trying to provide on its own. The alternator-charging system may boost enough some of the time to provide a voltage minimum that satisfies some or all of the sensors and electronics. Sometimes when the demand is higher but when one or both batteries are not up to par, many strange things are happening in 2018+ Wranglers and all Gladiators. Have you ever replaced both batteries yet? Or at least the AUX battery but neither of the factory batteries seem to live beyond 2 to 3 years for many owners.

I do not want to take you down the wrong path by hunch. I didn't decipher more than two codes to see this low voltage level commonality. But.... I would find it very unlikely that two different sensors themselves, presented low voltage levels to their own electronics. By the way, in your first message, you listed B015-00. Later you listed P015 as one of three remaining codes. I imagine one of these is a typo?

I am rooting for your issue to be easily solved and quick to take care of, whatever it is.

When it's running, voltage will be fine unless there's a blown high current fuse.
the aux may fail but since both are in parallel when it's running and the alternator is charging, it's not likely to be related to low voltage while driving because all systems will get the same voltage seen on the dash.
Remember, these run in parallel so you aren't going to have low voltage unless the whole system voltage is down. You can't have low voltage at the terminals of one and higher voltage at the other - they will equalize. The charging system will take over when running and that same charging voltage goes to both batteries. So if it's charging at 13 volts, the whole system sees 13 volts, not 11 at one point and 13 at another.

Too much "stuff" out there about the aux batteries............

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I agree with your TS but, both batteries have been replaced and the AUX replaced again last month.
I checked capacity, it showed excellent without isolation of the batteries. I also placed a smart charger in the system and after various charge/trickle cycles, it always showed a good charge.
Currently driving her, no CEL, everything works. I’ll see how it progresses and am ready to change battery/batteries. Engine running 13.8v 12.5 not running. Seems pretty healthy.

Fully charged AGM batteries should show 12.7, these may show 12.6 when connected to the parasitic load of a non-running Jeep.
I'd put an actual charger on it and get both batteries fully charged up to 12.7 volts.
Trickle chargers don't always do a full charge of low AGM batteries.

Depending on how you replaced the batteries - you should have made sure to fully charge each battery outside of the truck using an AGM battery charger - not a tender or trickle charge. Use a real charger, charge each battery, then install them. While the new batteries are charging, disconnect the IBS for 10 to 15 minutes to reset it.
Always reset the IBS when installing new batteries and always fully charge new batteries BEFORE installing.
Also never charge directly connected to the main battery negative terminal. Only charge through the IBS, not under it.

 

[Trlr8tdd]

I have a Genius charger, does all kinds of cool things, yes I charged the Aux (AGM) prior to installing.
I load tested the main ship battery while out and it was 12.6, topped it off but wouldn’t take much juice. It’s also (Jeep) AGM. I’m assuming the IBS reset when I had both batteries out?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I have a Genius charger, does all kinds of cool things, yes I charged the Aux (AGM) prior to installing.
I load tested the main ship battery while out and it was 12.6, topped it off but wouldn’t take much juice. It’s also (Jeep) AGM. I’m assuming the IBS reset when I had both batteries out?

Yes, if you had both batteries out for more than 10 minutes, yup, it reset.
It takes a lot longer to top off a battery than to do the bulk of the charge. Once it's at about 85% state of charge, the last 10 to 15% takes a lot longer.
Mine took a few hours to fully top off at 12.7 (stock Jeep batteries)

 

[Trlr8tdd]

Agreed, I work on airplanes and the batteries get checked/charged often. Very specific maintenance practices. A lead acid (24v) can take 12-24 hours to completely charge. The One battery we don’t use so much on aircraft is AGM. Lots of lead acid and nicad even a few lithium (remove and replace only). We do run AGM around the hangars in battery powered equipment (that’s why I have an expensive charger!). You’d be surprised that aircraft batteries are junk compared to automotive/industrial.

Sponsored