Check Engine Codes : 68! Looking for Help

[Beazt_253]

Hello, Rebuilding a 2021 Jeep Gladiator and have 68 Codes.

I have upgraded both axles to 4:10 from 3:73 (other than this major upgrade everything else was not modified)
Ive also replaced the Accessory battery & Charged Main Battery nothing has changed. same codes

I am also getting a software update on my radio which I don't understand as to why. it was working for a couple months and recently displayed this message.

If anyone has understanding of any codes they can pass onto me id greatly appreciate it!

I understand I can google them and I have but I'm still having trouble identifying multiple codes hence me asking for assistance.

Thanks in Advance Appreciate Your Time!

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[obrianmcc]

holy crap ... you charged the main, but did you check the voltage and/or load test?

 

[Beazt_253]

Main voltage and load is good. looks like its a maze at this point..

I'm thinking once I fix one thing 2 other things will fix themselves has been my experience over the years with multiple issues pertaining to a certain area...

 

[RJinPV]

All of these codes point to electrical system problems. How did you replace the aux battery? Did you go through the fender access point or did you remove the fuse box to remove it from the top? If you did the later then I am wondering if the fuse box mated with the connectors properly. What other data can you give us? Did you try to start it?

 

[Hootbro]

What scan tool are you using? You need one that can either access the security gate way (SGW) module or bypass it with a bypass cable and clear some of that stored fault data and get a re-baseline. It looks like a lot of that is from what I assume is an accident.

I will be honest, that is a lot of shit if most of that has not cleared up from your "repairs". You may still have wire damage on some of the can buses and that will require someone hands on the vehicle versed in that and not internet stabbing guesses.

Good luck.

 

[Beazt_253]

All of these codes point to electrical system problems. How did you replace the aux battery? Did you go through the fender access point or did you remove the fuse box to remove it from the top? If you did the later then I am wondering if the fuse box mated with the connectors properly. What other data can you give us? Did you try to start it?

I replaced the aux battery through the fender side did not remove fuse box.

it runs and drives. I've noticed that when I replaced the aux battery my 4HI and 4LO started to work, the lockers began to engage. but that was the only significant improvement ive noticed.

in the beginning when I scanned the codes I only had one wheel speed sensor code. I later proceeded to disconnect measure voltage and re connect the remaining 3 sensors and those codes popped up and I'm unable to clear them...

more than likely Blue Driver Scanner Tool is unable to clear my codes like Hootbro has mentioned...

 

[RJinPV]

I replaced the aux battery through the fender side did not remove fuse box.

it runs and drives. I've noticed that when I replaced the aux battery my 4HI and 4LO started to work, the lockers began to engage. but that was the only significant improvement ive noticed.

in the beginning when I scanned the codes I only had one wheel speed sensor code. I later proceeded to disconnect measure voltage and re connect the remaining 3 sensors and those codes popped up and I'm unable to clear them...

more than likely Blue Driver Scanner Tool is unable to clear my codes like Hootbro has mentioned...

That likely rules out the signals going through those fuse box connectors. A number are related to the battery low voltage, which you have corrected. The large number of codes points to a systemic cause. which is either the computer, the SW or some cable connections. A low voltage event can corrupt the SW of a computer. @Hootbro suggested the CAN bus problems which could cause systemic issues since that bus is how all of the computers and sensors communicate. I have a Blue Driver scan tool and it could not clear an EGR related code for my Ecodiesel either. Some codes can only be cleared by the dealer, or someone else that can get past the security gate. Some codes will clear themselves after a certain number of miles or ignition start cycles. Maybe it is time to take it to an expert for diagnostics

 

[Papa Bear]

Check the two CAN Bus connectors/ports behind the glovebox. The green and tan strips. These are notorious for failing. I got a slew of electrical issues and dash lights and dealt with something very similar for months before I finally had those two CAN Buses replaced now it’s good to go.

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