I Think Installing the Catch Can Broke Something!

[Rusty PW]

Is there a best? What makes me like J&L is OEM+ quality tubing (better than OEM in our case) and fittings...plus I buy American in the rare instances I can.

Really even the cheapest Amazon ones are fine. I bought one and installed it on my friend's Tacoma for $35 and it works just fine too!

On my Nismo. I got 2 cans from Amazon that I paid about $29 each. But spent about $200 for the steel braided hose and AN fittings.

Sponsored

 

[dayusmc]

I just ordered the RIPP Modification one, it was a little more money than the J&L, but it has a dipstick in it...

 

[Lunentucker]

I just ordered the RIPP Modification one, it was a little more money than the J&L, but it has a dipstick in it...

I cannot find that one on their website.

 

[dayusmc]

I cannot find that one on their website.

https://rippmods.com/products/jeep-wrangler-jl-and-gladiator-jt-catch-can-air-oil-separator

 

[Moe-Jave]

Thank you for this post. I was on the fence and just bought one. I didn't think it was "necessary" on an NA gas engine without DI...

J&L should be a sponsor and offer group deals! I like the OEM-style fittings and don't mind paying a small premium to get it.

Anyhow, I had similar feelings as you have shared here for past installations. When I installed it on my F150 3.5EB, I felt it was more of a necessity (even though it has port injection to help the DI issue). The installation on an old Tacoma didn't have nearly as dramatic results (as measured by output in the collection can).

You may have a lot of water vapor in the can, but it is clearly working as intended. I did not go with the 3oz extension (yet?). I'll install mine and report back too...

At 1560 miles, my catch can was full! I mean to the very top -- I'd have taken a photo, but by that time, my hands were a bit of a mess. That brings me to a related point...

It was a bit of a trick to fish it out without spilling anything. While the can extension option, for another 3oz of capacity would be nice, it would be even trickier to remove it when it was time to inspect/empty the can. The packaging of the whole thing is quite tight.

I don't consider this much of a problem, but wondered if others are experiencing a similar situation. @Lunentucker ?

We are pretty much in summer conditions here now (high near 100F and lows in the mid 60s), but it did include some cold weather operation. On inspection, it is obviously very diluted. I suspect it is mostly water vapor. I don't think it is a big deal to be completely full, but I don't prefer it -- and was completely caught off-guard by how much was present. There were no sludge-like deposits but I used a degreaser to clean it out. It is very possible my can was full for a bit before I got to it today...

For comparison the old Tacoma only had a bit more than that volume for around 15K miles! My buddy totally forgot to check, and when he saw my results, immediately checked his. That catch can has more capacity (maybe a six ounce can) and since it had been baking for a long while, had a bunch of thick sludge on the bottom.

 

[Lunentucker]

At 1560 miles, my catch can was full! I mean to the very top -- I'd have taken a photo, but by that time, my hands were a bit of a mess. That brings me to a related point...

It was a bit of a trick to fish it out without spilling anything. While the can extension option, for another 3oz of capacity would be nice, it would be even trickier to remove it when it was time to inspect/empty the can. The packaging of the whole thing is quite tight.

I don't consider this much of a problem, but wondered if others are experiencing a similar situation. @Lunentucker ?

We are pretty much in summer conditions here now (high near 100F and lows in the mid 60s), but it did include some cold weather operation. On inspection, it is obviously very diluted. I suspect it is mostly water vapor. I don't think it is a big deal to be completely full, but I don't prefer it -- and was completely caught off-guard by how much was present. There were no sludge-like deposits but I used a degreaser to clean it out. It is very possible my can was full for a bit before I got to it today...

For comparison the old Tacoma only had a bit more than that volume for around 15K miles! My buddy totally forgot to check, and when he saw my results, immediately checked his. That catch can has more capacity (maybe a six ounce can) and since it had been baking for a long while, had a bunch of thick sludge on the bottom.

First thing I'd do is check the dipstick. Looks like you're on a 23 model, which means perhaps you let the dealer do the oil changes? I'd make sure it isn't overfilled.
No. That's a LOT for 1500 miles.
I empty mine every 1,000 but I think it could probably 5,000 before being close to full.
I'm not sure the summer heat would matter. If anything it would keep more oil in vapor and allow it pass through?
That's a good amount getting by the rings on the top end.

 

[Lunentucker]

My last two empties together - 2,000 miles

 

[ShadowsPapa]

On inspection, it is obviously very diluted. I suspect it is mostly water vapor. I don't think it is a big deal to be completely full, but I don't prefer it -- and was completely caught off-guard by how much was present.

If it's mostly water vapor - then it's not much oil at all.
Where you put the catch can, quality of the catch can, and whether there's stop and go driving or short drives matter. Short drives will fill a catch can with water.
Oil in the can comes from the crankcase, so if it's not low on the stick, then it can't be oil in the can.
My bet is - there's not enough oil there to matter - that it's mostly water, an emulsion.
Every ounce of oil in a catch can means one less ounce in the crankcase. To have a full catch can, it's going to look low on the stick.
However, i've found that a perfect 5 quarts put into these actually ends up above the full mark - so beware....... just because it's over the full mark doesn't mean a dealer overfilled it, In fact, so many of these have been sold, I bet the overfills are few and far between these days Dealers here know and don't overfill these. They even put "5 quarts" on the work order.

 

[Moe-Jave]

First thing I'd do is check the dipstick. Looks like you're on a 23 model, which means perhaps you let the dealer do the oil changes? I'd make sure it isn't overfilled.
No. That's a LOT for 1500 miles.
I empty mine every 1,000 but I think it could probably 5,000 before being close to full.
I'm not sure the summer heat would matter. If anything it would keep more oil in vapor and allow it pass through?
That's a good amount getting by the rings on the top end.

I do my own oil changes. It isn’t overfilled. Five quarts exactly. Oil level not indicating low either.


I’m fairly certain this is mostly water vapor based on how thin it is and that I’m not low on oil.

I’ll be checking on shorter intervals going forward.

 

[Moe-Jave]

If it's mostly water vapor - then it's not much oil at all.
Where you put the catch can, quality of the catch can, and whether there's stop and go driving or short drives matter. Short drives will fill a catch can with water.
Oil in the can comes from the crankcase, so if it's not low on the stick, then it can't be oil in the can.
My bet is - there's not enough oil there to matter - that it's mostly water, an emulsion.
Every ounce of oil in a catch can means one less ounce in the crankcase. To have a full catch can, it's going to look low on the stick.
However, i've found that a perfect 5 quarts put into these actually ends up above the full mark - so beware....... just because it's over the full mark doesn't mean a dealer overfilled it, In fact, so many of these have been sold, I bet the overfills are few and far between these days Dealers here know and don't overfill these. They even put "5 quarts" on the work order.

Thank you. I agree.

Curiously, I don’t do many short trips. I’ll be watching this closely.

Sponsored