iphone car mount

[Blindjustice1787]

Love my Bulletpoint. Rock solid and very versatile.

How did you run the cable? It looks pretty clean!

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[Garemlin]

How did you run the cable? It looks pretty clean!

Drilled a hole under where the rubber mat in the tray was. Pulled the front panel off and ran the cable down. It comes out by the media hub.

 

[Blindjustice1787]

Drilled a hole under where the rubber mat in the tray was. Pulled the front panel off and ran the cable down. It comes out by the media hub.

So..hole drilled through plastic under mat (not through the mat itself) then pulled the panel (you mean the hole from dash??) off and ran it...

 

[Garemlin]

So..hole drilled through plastic under mat (not through the mat itself) then pulled the panel (you mean the hole from dash??) off and ran it...

Yes I drilled a hole in the dash under where the mat sits. The Rubigrid sits over top of the tray and the mat is not used. I pulled the radio bezel and window control module and trim piece out. Then snaked the cable down and brought it under the console to come out here.

 

[Blindjustice1787]

Yes I drilled a hole in the dash under where the mat sits. The Rubigrid sits over top of the tray and the mat is not used. I pulled the radio bezel and window control module and trim piece out. Then snaked the cable down and brought it under the console to come out here.

I wish there was a way to split the usb-c in the back and run the cable completely back there. It would be a lot cleaner!

 

[Garemlin]

I wish there was a way to split the usb-c in the back and run the cable completely back there. It would be a lot cleaner!

There's always a way. Just depends on how creative and adventurous you are with wiring. I believe Quadratec sells an accessory plug that taps into the lighter that's meant to be behind the dash. I've also seen people relocate the media hub to the top of the dash.

 

[Blindjustice1787]

There's always a way. Just depends on how creative and adventurous you are with wiring. I believe Quadratec sells an accessory plug that taps into the lighter that's meant to be behind the dash. I've also seen people relocate the media hub to the top of the dash.

I found this diagram on a JL forum. Not sure it’s accurate, but if it is, 1 and 2 are actually usb connectors somewhere behind the head unit. The assumption is 1 goes to the media hub and 2 to the single port inside the center console. If the console port is separate from the charging usb-c ports in the back (I am assuming it is since these are listed as charging only) then I could unplug and run from there, only losing the in console port.

I guess I will have to dig into it to see though!

 

[Garemlin]

I found this diagram on a JL forum. Not sure it’s accurate, but if it is, 1 and 2 are actually usb connectors somewhere behind the head unit. The assumption is 1 goes to the media hub and 2 to the single port inside the center console. If the console port is separate from the charging usb-c ports in the back (I am assuming it is since these are listed as charging only) then I could unplug and run from there, only losing the in console port.

I guess I will have to dig into it to see though!

Should be easy enough to figure out which one goes to the media hub since it's right there. I wouldn't care about losing the center console port.

Good luck and let us know what you figure out.

 

[Blindjustice1787]

Should be easy enough to figure out which one goes to the media hub since it's right there. I wouldn't care about losing the center console port.

Good luck and let us know what you figure out.

This might be more than anyone cares to know, but....

First, that is not an actual picture of the 8.4 uConnect. Bad sources = bad information, but I found the correct information!

Found this further into the rabbit hole of the JL Forums. The Micro USB Port attached to the media hub via this:

Wire. (MOPAR Part Number: 6NC18DX9AA)

This is the back of the Media Hub (MOPAR Part Number: 68505684AA). It has three connectors (2) Micro USB connectors, which I explain and can be seen in the picture below; and this interesting pin set, which I will discuss more after the pictures. (As a note: MOPAR's website erroneously labels this a micro-USB but it is really a mini-USB, which does not matter much if you use their cords (Reference: https://www.pcmag.com/encyclopedia/term/micro-usb))

Here, you can clearly see two micro(its painful to keep typing this, but I am trying not to confuse anyone looking at the part name vs this post) USB ports at the bottom. All MOPAR has done is take a $3 cable and add a proprietary "clip" to make it stay in place, and now charge you $30 bucks for it.

This is the back of the USB port (MOPAR Part Number 6NC18DX9AA) that is inside of the center console.

Here is where the hypothesis comes into play on how these are all working. First I will cover connectivity (data) then discuss power separately.

Data Connectivity: As the uConnect system only has one USB out, which based on the wiring diagrams connects directly to the Media Hub, the belief is the Media Hub operates in a daisy chain to the USB Port in the center console. Thus, one port on the back of the Hub is the communication port to the uConnect system and the other is the bridge. This is probably how it prioritizes connections, leaving the decision to the hub and not the uConnect (On this point, I have not played around in the actual uConnect system, so if there is a way to select Port 2 as priority over Port 1, then the hub is a dumb hub; however, if there is not, then the hub is making the decision. Again, this is not super important, but always good to know.)

Now, here is the interesting con, at least from my perspective, the USB-C port is not actually transmitting data any faster than the the Type-A port below it. The wiring diagram/MOPAR site lists the Micro-cable as a data cable, and although possible, I would be money the pin connector on the back of the hub is not doing much in the way of augmenting the data transmission rate given how it is all wired/setup. It is interesting though, as I read a thread from someone who thought their iPhone 12 would not work on Apple Car play without using the USB-C. I have to chalk this up to operator error, as the hardware in these units does not make me believe, from a data transmission rate, the USB-C is actually capable of transmitting the bandwidth required to be certified as a USB-C; however, that brings me to the matter of power.

Power: USBs are fantastic, because, they are universal, but only in the actual format of the hole. Most people are blissfully ignorant to the fact that all USB ports are not created equal, just like all 110/220 outlets in vehicles are not equal. The ports themselves can only charge based on the standard of USB port present. The traditional rectangle port, can be a few different varieties, but I have not seen anything less than a 2.0 in a modern vehicle. A USB 2.0 can provide 2.5W of max power (0.5A, 5V) while a USB 3.0 can provide 4.5 W (0.9A, 5v). USB-Cs also come in different varieties, with the best being Power Delivery 3, which can give you up to 100W (5A, 20V), which will charge most consumer laptops.

Distinguishing between the versions can be difficult if they are not labeled, which in our vehicles they are not. a USB 3.0 is typically distinguishable from all other ports because the small, rectangular block inside the port is blue. Given the black color, I would say it is most likely a 2.0 port, thus can only charge at 2.5W. I say most likely, because I have come across a few odd ball foreign companies that do not follow the blue color pattern. Thus, knowing that the USB-Media Hub plugs in with a USB Micro port, which is a micro Type A, this conclusion seems supported by the hardware.

The only part that gives me pause, is the pin connector on the USB Media Hub. There are too many pins for it to only be for the 3.5mm jack. So it is plausible that the extra pins provide the USB-C port with the additional power to charge faster; however, it is just as likely that additional power coming in is just a way to ensure the daisy chained USB Port in the center console is not underpowered if multiple devices are plugged in. Think, if they are daisy-chained together, a device pulling 2.5 W in one of the front ports would make the center console port incapable of charging anything. Thus, if they augment the power to the hub through the pin connector, you should be able to pull 2.5 W from all three ports without issue.

Klein tools makes a pretty inexpensive USB A/C Multimeter, I was able to get it for $15 bucks and it will be here Tuesday, and I plan to test the output of each port. I will post the data once I run the tests.

Conclusion: After all the research, my working Theory is that I should be able to buy the USB Module MOPAR makes for the center console, the cable that daisy-chains the ports, and make a cut-out for it in the top panel just like people who moved the whole hub have done. This will let me have Carplay/power up there, and leave the media hub stock. I would like to find a way to given power (charging only) back to the center console port, but this should be fairly easy now that I know its just a micro(mini) USB cable.

 

[Broccoli]

+1 on the CMM/Ram combo.

 

[Warrior21]

Very early in my testing but I wanted to try something different. Please share feedback or concerns. This method keeps me from having to run any wires behind the head unit. It mounts magnetically and I can wireless charge when I want.

I went with the following for my 67 Designs mounting system but I am sure that it will work with most ball mount systems.

I connected a base plate with 20mm ball to my 67 Designs arm. I then attached a magnetic battery pack to the base plate with double sided tape. This way I can connect the cable to recharge the battery pack when I want. Otherwise, I can mount and charge my phone wirelessly

base plate -iBOLT 20mm Metal AMPS Adapter... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B099NXNG42?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

magnetic battery pack -Anker 521 Magnetic Battery... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08TW7BRTJ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

 

[Blindjustice1787]

Very early in my testing but I wanted to try something different. Please share feedback or concerns. This method keeps me from having to run any wires behind the head unit. It mounts magnetically and I can wireless charge when I want.

I went with the following for my 67 Designs mounting system but I am sure that it will work with most ball mount systems.

I connected a base plate with 20mm ball to my 67 Designs arm. I then attached a magnetic battery pack to the base plate with double sided tape. This way I can connect the cable to recharge the battery pack when I want. Otherwise, I can mount and charge my phone wirelessly

base plate -iBOLT 20mm Metal AMPS Adapter... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B099NXNG42?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

magnetic battery pack -Anker 521 Magnetic Battery... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08TW7BRTJ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

A few things:

1. Heat and battery. Not sure where you live, but I would be concerned about the heat in places like Florida causing this thing it boil in the summer. Beyond that, the battery life will likely be reduced.
2. Have you tried to connect the usb while on the charger? I am curious if the phone will allow charging through the magnet and data through usb?

The vehicle USB-C only puts out 7.5w,and although this model will only put out 7.5w, MAGSAFE charging will do 15W. Assuming the usb would not trump the MAGSAFE charging, this could be a great thought!

3. How well is the magnet holding your phone through bumps?

 

[Bonanza]

I hate my bullepoint mount. I have the tension grip and the magnet. For the tension grip, the arm always pivots to the passenger side when I put the phone in. Even after taking a wrench and tightening the thumbscrews, it still pivots. I almost always just throw it in the passenger seat now. I regret buying it.

 

[skindata]

I hate my bullepoint mount. I have the tension grip and the magnet. For the tension grip, the arm always pivots to the passenger side when I put the phone in. Even after taking a wrench and tightening the thumbscrews, it still pivots. I almost always just throw it in the passenger seat now. I regret buying it.

How long have you used it? I’ve only been using mine around a month. I can get the arm to swing side to side with moderate force, but the thumbscrews holding both the arm and the mount are so tight just from using my fingers to tighten them that it would take some serious force to get them loose again. I’ve been really happy with it so far.

 

[Bonanza]

How long have you used it? I’ve only been using mine around a month. I can get the arm to swing side to side with moderate force, but the thumbscrews holding both the arm and the mount are so tight just from using my fingers to tighten them that it would take some serious force to get them loose again. I’ve been really happy with it so far.

A while now, for sure. With an Iphone 11 and case, I have to use two hands to get the phone in the mount. If you try to open the grip by using the phone to push it open, it swings the arm instead. The grip on the phone is a bit too tight.

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