Just installed KC Cyclone Rock lights / Courtesy lights.

[Edub]

Great write up! I’ve been thinking of doing this with the bed lights as they are pretty much useless with my current overland setup. The additional functionality of having a dash button seemed like a good idea.
I have switches in the bed and want rock lights that come on for camping lights. I’d probably split the bed area to come on with a switch at the tailgate and the cab lights to come on with the curtesy lights, then have an auxiliary switch in the cab to turn them all on for night rides.

Honestly, I never knew what a diode was for. This is a game changer. My mind is racing with ideas. nothing practical yet, but I'm sure I'll break make something soon.

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[Eventyr_JT]

Yes, they are pretty cool. Diodes are single directional - input/output - to keep electricity from back feeding other components.

 

[cj8scrambler]

Next, I wanted these lights to double as courtesy lights. I found multiple ways of doing this online but what worked for me was using a Roadmaster Diode. The first input went to the aux switch, the second to the courtesy light located in the driver footwell. There's even a conveniently placed port you can use right next to the master cylinder/up and to the left of the brake pedal. It was as simple as that.

(This is a temporary mounting location while I test to see if it all works)

I tried this with and without using a relay. it worked fine both ways but without a relay, the lights fade off like the interior dome light so that's nice and the cyclones draw verry little amps (I think 0.5) but this needs to be verified.

Now I can activate them by either pressing my aux switch or by unlocking my doors as I walk up to the truck.

Can you confirm that the lights are connected to a normal ground and all of the dimming control is done on the 12V side? Often LEDs are dimmed by controlling the ground, but your report indicates that's not the case.

I don't have my JT yet and I haven't worked on automotive lighting much, but I am familiar with electrical design. I'm working on a circuit board to act like a relay, but allow multiple inputs to control it. So it would behave like the diode device you used (with dimming control), but it has a 3rd input for a high current 12V supply to feed the output. This means almost no load on the circuits used as inputs. Also I want to be able to control the output with other logic sometimes such as only turn on the output when both inputs are on (i.e. and AND switch).

 

[Edub]

Can you confirm that the lights are connected to a normal ground and all of the dimming control is done on the 12V side? Often LEDs are dimmed by controlling the ground, but your report indicates that's not the case.

I don't have my JT yet and I haven't worked on automotive lighting much, but I am familiar with electrical design. I'm working on a circuit board to act like a relay, but allow multiple inputs to control it. So it would behave like the diode device you used (with dimming control), but it has a 3rd input for a high current 12V supply to feed the output. This means almost no load on the circuits used as inputs. Also I want to be able to control the output with other logic sometimes such as only turn on the output when both inputs are on (i.e. and AND switch).

I can indeed confirm, its grounded in a traditional stock grounding post.

 

[Edub]

update,

Looks like one of the Cyclone lights leaked and went out. contacted KC and it looks like its covered under warranty.

 

[Alans17]

I like the placement of the side lights. Pushes them out more for better visibility rather than tucked under the vehicle where the only thing they're lighting up is the undercarriage. This just seems more useful.

 

[Edub]

I like the placement of the side lights. Pushes them out more for better visibility rather than tucked under the vehicle where the only thing they're lighting up is the undercarriage. This just seems more useful.

I really like how it turned out; they work great at courtesy lights as well as rock lights this way.

Having them dim off when I walk away is a nice touch.

 

[Minty JL]

I think I'm going to go with the LUX Max 8pc kit and use their BT controller.

I like how theirs are a HD magnetic base for cooling and mounting:

https://luxlightingsystems.com/coll...-piece-ground-coverage?variant=30259947438132

 

[Dougstdig]

would this kit be easy(ER) to install? https://www.quadratec.com/p/stinger-offroad/led-underglow-wrangler-jl-jk-jt

also did you order the bracket to convert your venator to stubby and how did you mount thr lights on the fair lead? What brand are they and would you buy again?
thanks!

Even in the photos from your link, they don’t seem to throw nearly as much light.

 

[Edub]

Just realized I never added a final video. the flickering you see is only on the video due to the shutter speed/LEDs ratio.

 

[aprez27]

I think I'm going to go with the LUX Max 8pc kit and use their BT controller.

I like how theirs are a HD magnetic base for cooling and mounting:

https://luxlightingsystems.com/coll...-piece-ground-coverage?variant=30259947438132

Holy shit those are a lot more expensive than they used to be.

 

[Minty JL]

Holy shit those are a lot more expensive than they used to be.

They're pricy, but I love the fact the have that magnetic base......so install will be super easy.

Easy > cost.......in some applications lol

 

[Edub]

Holy shit those are a lot more expensive than they used to be.

boy they are really proud of those.

although, for what you get, it's not a terrible price.

I pieced mine together using individually bought Cyclone lights and made my own harness using douche connector and all-in it wasn't a huge difference then just buying the kit which cost $319.00 and includes 6 lights.

add two more lights (Max comes with 8) at $30 a piece (going price for a single Cyclone light), puts us at a little over $380.00

so, for 60$ more, you get a complete kit that has

• more lights
• ability to change colors
• easier to install
• BT capability

is it expensive? Sure, but it looks like the value is there. I would have given it a second thought before making mine.

 

[Von1992]

Rock lights

• KC Cyclone x6

*Important note, I was not aware that KC sold a kit for rock lights, just individual Cyclone lights. so, imagine my disappointment when I found out AFTER.

Nevertheless, I like the way I set it up and I don't intent to change anything. building your own wiring harness is more satisfying I and it's a custom fit. Each loom is protected in a nylon sleeve and paired with Deutsch connector.

I started by creating my own wiring harness with 16-gauge wire that split 3 ways. One branch to the front bumper, one that runs to the passenger side and one to the right driver side. Both wiring harnesses reach just to the front door, and I ended those with a female Deutsch 2 Pin Connector. Once that part of the harness was set, I went off and built the brackets I would need. My goal here was I did not want the actual LED's visible (nothing more annoying than getting blinded by direct light) and I didn't feel they would be verry solid tucked inside the plastic fender lining.

I then created two smaller harnesses that connected the two lights on either side to the appropriate harness. The entire thing can be removed in minutes if I ever need to make changes.

I mounted two just behind the front bumper, tucked in just a bit for the bumper to provide some protection.

The other 4 were mounted under the side steps.

(The side steps provide adequate protection as the cyclone lights are much thinner than the tubing)

Next, I wanted these lights to double as courtesy lights. I found multiple ways of doing this online but what worked for me was using a Roadmaster Diode. The first input went to the aux switch, the second to the courtesy light located in the driver footwell. There's even a conveniently placed port you can use right next to the master cylinder/up and to the left of the brake pedal. It was as simple as that.

(This is a temporary mounting location while I test to see if it all works)

I tried this with and without using a relay. it worked fine both ways but without a relay, the lights fade off like the interior dome light so that's nice and the cyclones draw verry little amps (I think 0.5) but this needs to be verified.

Now I can activate them by either pressing my aux switch or by unlocking my doors as I walk up to the truck.

I have a night crawl event I'm going to this weekend and Ill test the position of the lights for functionality then. As well as take some photos.

I am by no means an electrical engineer and can't begin to say with confidence if I am doing this right however the end result is what I wanted. If you spotted a mistake, please let me know. My main concern is if tapping into the footwell for the power to run all six is too much? so far, no problem but time will tell.

Next up, Wire management. I want to turn that Spod mounting bracket into a mounting point for a power distribution enter and clean up all my leads.

I am looking to do this as well, and I’m curious to which wire you tapped into under the driver footwell. I’ve read multiple threads but no straight answer. Slowly getting all of the parts to do this, just needing to confirm which wire to tap into so they come on like yours.

 

[BigC1066]

I just finished mine up doing the same but with a different diode for the one way. Even used the KC cyclones. But I’m guessing since I used the red shaded lens it just doesn’t seem as bright. (Trucks name is Vader so the red just makes it look more bada$$).

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