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Looking for OEM Plastic Rivets

ShadowsPapa

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I have a 2020 JTR and have had my liner out to replace my aux. battery and have no shiny screws? It does have 3 ten mm bolts, push clips, and 4 plastic rivets that need to be removed and reinstalled but no screws.
The clips are sold at almost any place that sells clips and fasteners.

He's referring to the screws used in the clips he bought at a home center or where-ever. There's no screws in the OEM fasteners, nor in a POM rivet or in the clips that hold the Jeep fender to the body proper.
You pulled the fender liner out, so all you need are the cheap clips and POM rivets from Amazon. You can sit in your chair and order them and have them by Money delivered to your door.
If you were closer, I'd say come over and grab what you need out of my assortment of body panel fasteners. I have found that AMC used clips very much like what Jeep uses today in some places.

The POM rivets are sold all over the place, Amazon, McMaster-Carr, discount places, you name it.
The clips were used by AMC to hold interior panels in place, like the rear trim on the interior under the hatch for a Spirit or SX4. Same clip.

Search amazon for "Jeep fender clip" or "Jeep POM rivet" or "Jeep plastic rivet", etc.
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SuperUltraMan

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(Subject)…. If you know…. Then you know…. ???

on a serious note! Picked up plastic rivets and a cheap tool at harbor freight to get a job done temporarily.
No joke- 75% of the rivets broke while installing, tool was equally as frustrating for such a simple tool…

Looking for some recommendations on a decent tool and where to buy decent rivets…. I could see buying these rivets in the 1-200 quantity….

Thanks in advance!
Amazon sells a kit filled with all the necessary Rivets and Fasteners for $14
I just use pliers to pull the rivets with a flatbar body tool to hold the rivet in place.
 

ShadowsPapa

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DFD0056D-FBD0-49E2-A903-57A7EB9E2942.png

This one is out of stock but look for something like it. This one was $14.99
That's what I was thinking about - that has all of the clips used to hold the fender liner and the fender itself in place. And the POM rivets used in the fender liner and other spots (like the steel bumper)
Perfect.

IMO, anyone who does even "some" of their own work on their Jeeps should have those parts.
I have most of that stuff just because I've worked on cars for decades, and do restorations and such. The only things I was lacking were the specifics - the POM rivets in Jeep sizes and the clips that hold the fender to the body. Those can be removed and re-used. You can reach up under behind and squeeze the fingers together and they'll pull right out except the one to the rear.
The flat top christmas tree type I had already as they've been used for decades on interior panels of cars. I have a small plastic drawer of them.
Anyway, that's the exact thing every Wrangler and Gladiator owner should have.
 

SuperUltraMan

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I’ve always been a fan of the OEM fenders because they pop off when hit, they’re light enough to carry home, easy to pop back on, and a little heat from a torch with another piece of old fender material can press in the texture after you press out the big gouges.
These rigs can become expensive but I go cheap where I can get away with it.
 

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g2020

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The HF gun works, but I got my rivets from Amazon after trouble with a few of the HF rivets. Plus, HF is a bit of a drive for me. The heads of the Amazon rivets are a tiny bit smaller but they work great. I used them to install my splash guards and replace one of the rivets holding the fender liner in.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D6JXC4Q
Agreed. I recently removed and reinstalled (not replaced) the right front splash shield. I used the (plastic) POM rivets provided with the hand riveter from Harbor Freight. Other brands might have a POM rivet that matches the (expensive) OEM replacement POM rivet, but, in terms of appearance, the provided POM rivets are either a perfect match or look good enough for the difference not to be noticed.

How to Remove & Reinstall the Right Front Splash Shield / Wheel Well Liner on a Jeep Gladiator or Wrangler

Benefits


- Access to auxiliary battery BBAUX101AB (below storage battery BBH6A001AA)
- Access to TCM connector
- Access to other wiring harnesses and plugs

Tools & Parts

- 10 mm socket
- Ratchet
- 1.5" or 3" socket extension (optional, but useful for tightening the forwardmost screw)
- Phillips screwdriver that is as narrow as the pin at the center of one of the POM rivets
- See the first tip below ***before*** using a clip lifter or plastic fastener remover
- Lisle Double Ended Clip Lifter 35460 (available at Advance Auto Parts) or similar tool
- Lisle Plastic Fastener Remover 35260 (available at Advance Auto Parts) or similar tool

- Pittsburgh Hand Riveter, item 97757, with 40 POM rivets, 10 each of four different sizes
- One of the POM rivet sizes (6.6 mm x 17.2 mm) fits in 5 of 8 holes, and a smaller size (5 mm x 17.2 mm) fits in the remaining three holes​
- These two sizes provide the closest aesthetic match, but the shorter length might affect the strength of the riveted connection
- Recommended: The longest POM rivet size (6.3 mm x 25.2 mm) is the same length as the dealer replacement POM rivet, but the head is wider​
- This size fits in all eight holes and provides the strongest riveted connection
- The dealer replacement POM rivet is (also) 6.3 mm x 25.2 mm and has the correct head size, but the price is very high​
- This size fits in all eight holes and provides the strongest riveted connection

For more POM rivets:

- Storehouse 90-Piece POM Rivet Assortment, item 67611, same four sizes
- Another option is listed in post #3 in this thread

Tips

- To remove each POM rivet, use a Phillips screwdriver that is as narrow as the pin at the center of the POM rivet, twist the screwdriver, and apply pressure to the pin at the center of the POM rivet until it breaks; then, lift the rivet with your fingernails or a clip lifter
- The only thing that you can (and want to) break is the riveted connection
- Before removing the (one) large push-type retainer, take a picture of it to remember where it goes, or just look at the splash shield on the other side
- During reinstallation and after loosely tightening the metal screws (to hang and place the splash shield), install a medium push-type retainer (first) in each of the two holes at the bottom of the splash shield, and (then) in the hole on the opposite end, before installing the POM rivets
- After doing this, all of the other holes should be aligned
- After the POM rivets are installed, remember to install a medium push-type retainer behind three of the POM rivets
- Tighten metal screws last
- Vibration will cause (especially) the forwardmost screw to loosen over time; I will use a very small amount of Threadlocker BLUE/Medium, part number 24200, if it continues to loosen; check torque here

- Tip on two charging posts for auxiliary battery:
- 5/32" socket, to remove & install charging posts​
- 4 mm socket will also work (only 1/1000th of an inch larger than 5/32" socket)

POM Rivets Joining Splash Shield & (Plastic) Fender Flare

- Clockwise positions 2, 3, & 4 must be removed in order to remove the splash shield
- Clockwise positions 1, 5, 6, 7, & 8 do not need to be removed in order to remove the splash shield
- Removing all eight POM rivets might help with reinstallation because the splash shield might not retain exactly the same shape
- Recommended: The longest POM rivet size (6.3 mm x 25.2 mm) fits in all eight holes and provides the strongest riveted connection, but the head is wider

If an aesthetic match is more important to you:
- If you only remove the three POM rivets, no smaller POM rivets (5 mm x 17.2 mm) will be required​
- If you remove all eight POM rivets, three smaller POM rivets (5 mm x 17.2 mm) will be required, in clockwise positions 1, 5, & 6​
- For the smaller POM rivet (5 mm x 17.2 mm), crank the hand riveter two separate times, and use a razor blade to remove the exposed part of the pin​
- Either three or five larger POM rivets (6.6 mm x 17.2 mm) will be required​

Push-Type Retainers

- NAPA-Balkamp 665-1000, pack of 14, medium; six are required for this job
- NAPA-Balkamp 665-2204, pack of 10, large; one is required for this job

Metal Screws

- Three 10 mm hex head metal screws (reusable)
 
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ShadowsPapa

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You can also get literally everything you need in large kits or assortments from amazon cheaper than pretty much any place else.

Never had any sheet metal screws come loose, ever - and they use the same types of screws to hold the rocker trim and fender flares on the AMC Eagle. (some things don't need to change) They've not come loose in decades.
I just tighten them........... never paid attention to torque. You get a feel for screws holding plastic in place.



Jeep Gladiator Looking for OEM Plastic Rivets 1760497007693-uu
 

ShadowsPapa

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This gun works better than cheap HF shit.

https://a.co/d/dr9qfXh
Won't say it's not better, but my "cheap HF shit" rivet tool has worked perfectly fine for 6 years. Granted, it's not as easy to get into some tight spots.

This is mine from 2020, and I have an assortment of door panel tools from the 70s and later that work great for the christmas tree clips - the one in this pic slips under the head and lets you pry it right up. I didn't even have to buy tools for the jeep clips - already had the door panel and other trim tools.

For 20 bucks, no more often than most people need such things, it's a cheaper alternative and works just fine.

Jeep Gladiator Looking for OEM Plastic Rivets 1760497677952-j0
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