Low voltage and throttle service codes only while towing.

[kshack90]

I have a 21 gladiator Rubi with the 3.0 diesel. I’ve had no trouble towing for the entire time I’ve had it. It’s worth mentioning none of my trailers don’t have a 7pin with brakes. So I can take off and will make it a random distance furthest was 75 miles least was 3 and usually during a downshift climbing a hill the dash with light up and derate the engine. The warnings I get are low voltage, service electric throttle and auto start stop disabled. I have an Idash and my dpf is fine and no temps seem crazy. I can clear the code and usually completely finish my trip before it does it again. I’m thinking my aux battery is toast but was just wondering if anyone has seen this or if there is something else to look for. It will not happen at all unless a trailer is behind me.

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[wildtaco]

I dealt with service electronic throttle and service exhaust system messages last year during my cross country trip while towing my camper. For me it turned out to be a cracked DPF. From what I saw, the service electronic throttle is basically limp mode.

Couple questions:
How are your EGTs, are you monitoring them?
What's your setup, meaning tire size, added weight, etc.?
Size and weight of trailer?

 

[Mr._Bill]

It could be battery related. The average life expectancy of batteries in the JT is three years. It could also be other issues, such as damaged wiring in one of the harnesses near the exhaust system.

 

[kshack90]

So I have yet to see an exhaust message but my initial thought was a stopped dpf filter. But it is loading and burning like it should. I have not been monitoring my egts but can get that info later. All the added weight I have is 35x12.50r22 and a 6” falcon lift. I read about the wire harness on the down pipe and took a Quick Look yesterday and nothing jumped out at me. When this first happened I was towing in the neighborhood of 5200lbs with the trailer included. At that time I didn’t know about the aux battery or the smart charging so I watched the fluctuations in the charging system the disconnected the main battery and everything chilled out . The cluster matched my meter so I bought a battery. The ends on the main were starting to swell so it was close to needing changed anyway. Yesterday I pulled the aux battery and added a tender pig tail. Hook only the aux battery back up and tested voltage was getting 4.6v hooked up the tender and let it run all night and had 3.6 in the morning so it’s definitely bad I just don’t want to keep throwing parts at it when there are other potential common problems I don’t know about. The last time it did it I was hauling and empty car hauler that weights somewhere around 1700lbs

 

[Mr._Bill]

The Aux battery is definitely shot with the reading you have. Get the electrical system in order, and then go from there. When fully charged, with no load, the reading from each battery should be 12.8 volts.

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