Main battery and Aux Battery replacement write up

[Skyler7381]

Hello everyone, I replaced my main and aux battery today and thought I would post my experience and any tips i might have.

To start, my ESS has not worked for about a year. The dash always says "ESS not ready battery charging". Recently I started getting a message on engine start saying "Aux switches unavailable battery charging". So I knew my batteries were on the way to the grave. My truck is about 4 1/2 years old now (with 60k miles) so the batteries did last a good while.

I decided that going through the wheel well would be the easiest method for me. I only had to remove 1x10mm bolt, 4 push pins on the fender liner and 3 plastic rivets. I did not remove the whole fender liner, I just removed enough attachments so i could access the aux battery. For this process i just had the wheels turned as far to the left as possible.

It was super awkward to get to however was doable, id probably just recommend taking the wheel off if you have a jack and stand.

For the plastic rivets i just used a tool from harbor freight that included the right size plastic rivets. 6.3mm. Link to tool
The rivets you will either have to drill or kind of push out in the center. I also had to buy some of the push pins for the fender liner as they really weren't useable after removal, Oreillys had them in stock. You will need a 4 inch extension to get to some of the 10mm bolts so keep that in mind.

As for the batteries them selves I got both of mine from Oreillys. The super start platinum aux14 battery and 94r size battery for the main. After hooking both batteries up it started first try. Some of the infotainment settings did get reset but that only took a minute to re adjust to my liking. The back and front cameras don't currently work (I just get a blue screen) but I believe after a few cycles and some time they will come back online. Overall it wasn't too bad of a job, def worth doing yourself to save a few hundred dollars.

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[bd100]

Remember to tape off and insulate each of the two battery grounds during this process.

 

[Skyler7381]

Remember to tape off and insulate each of the two battery grounds during this process.

What do you mean? Like cover them during the change so you don't short something out?

 

[Mr._Bill]

What do you mean? Like cover them during the change so you don't short something out?

You just need to make sure none of the battery cable ends touch against each other or against anything metal in the engine bay while changing the batteries.

When I changed the Aux battery in my sister's Compass last week, I used some plastic bottles and cups to put over the end of each cable as I disconnected them.

 

[IamPro2A]

Maybe add a link to the push pins you needed too? Might save someone an extra trip.

 

[Lunentucker]

Baffling to me why anyone who's out of warranty would install another aux battery instead of doing the simple bypass or a full delete. But it's a Burger King world. Have it your way.

 

[DarthAWM]

Baffling to me why anyone who's out of warranty would install another aux battery instead of doing the simple bypass or a full delete. But it's a Burger King world. Have it your way.

Well, I kinda didn't know any better at the time.

 

[willys 41]

Hello everyone, I replaced my main and aux battery today and thought I would post my experience and any tips i might have.

To start, my ESS has not worked for about a year. The dash always says "ESS not ready battery charging". Recently I started getting a message on engine start saying "Aux switches unavailable battery charging". So I knew my batteries were on the way to the grave. My truck is about 4 1/2 years old now (with 60k miles) so the batteries did last a good while.

I decided that going through the wheel well would be the easiest method for me. I only had to remove 1x10mm bolt, 4 push pins on the fender liner and 3 plastic rivets. I did not remove the whole fender liner, I just removed enough attachments so i could access the aux battery. For this process i just had the wheels turned as far to the left as possible.

It was super awkward to get to however was doable, id probably just recommend taking the wheel off if you have a jack and stand.

For the plastic rivets i just used a tool from harbor freight that included the right size plastic rivets. 6.3mm. Link to tool
The rivets you will either have to drill or kind of push out in the center. I also had to buy some of the push pins for the fender liner as they really weren't useable after removal, Oreillys had them in stock. You will need a 4 inch extension to get to some of the 10mm bolts so keep that in mind.

As for the batteries them selves I got both of mine from Oreillys. The super start platinum aux14 battery and 94r size battery for the main. After hooking both batteries up it started first try. Some of the infotainment settings did get reset but that only took a minute to re adjust to my liking. The back and front cameras don't currently work (I just get a blue screen) but I believe after a few cycles and some time they will come back online. Overall it wasn't too bad of a job, def worth doing yourself to save a few hundred dollars.

The best thing you can do for your jeep is the

Hello everyone, I replaced my main and aux battery today and thought I would post my experience and any tips i might have.

To start, my ESS has not worked for about a year. The dash always says "ESS not ready battery charging". Recently I started getting a message on engine start saying "Aux switches unavailable battery charging". So I knew my batteries were on the way to the grave. My truck is about 4 1/2 years old now (with 60k miles) so the batteries did last a good while.

I decided that going through the wheel well would be the easiest method for me. I only had to remove 1x10mm bolt, 4 push pins on the fender liner and 3 plastic rivets. I did not remove the whole fender liner, I just removed enough attachments so i could access the aux battery. For this process i just had the wheels turned as far to the left as possible.

It was super awkward to get to however was doable, id probably just recommend taking the wheel off if you have a jack and stand.

For the plastic rivets i just used a tool from harbor freight that included the right size plastic rivets. 6.3mm. Link to tool
The rivets you will either have to drill or kind of push out in the center. I also had to buy some of the push pins for the fender liner as they really weren't useable after removal, Oreillys had them in stock. You will need a 4 inch extension to get to some of the 10mm bolts so keep that in mind.

As for the batteries them selves I got both of mine from Oreillys. The super start platinum aux14 battery and 94r size battery for the main. After hooking both batteries up it started first try. Some of the infotainment settings did get reset but that only took a minute to re adjust to my liking. The back and front cameras don't currently work (I just get a blue screen) but I believe after a few cycles and some time they will come back online. Overall it wasn't too bad of a job, def worth doing yourself to save a few hundred dollars.

The best thing you can do is to do the AUX BATTERY DELETE
I came across this right up and confirmed what I have been saying with the oil and ESS
I eliminated ESS and ran 5w30 on day one and now run 5w40

Unfortunately I left the company as the Gen II was kicking off. I do know the engineering team was VERY nervous on the 0w-20 stuff and it was 100% for fuel economy. My personal opinion knowing the bearing surface area would not have gone up because of the cost I would go up a notch in weight. Not a lot of downside for the margin. Also, we are designing for 150-200K max, not 200k+ so that is always something to think about when OEM's make recommendations.

I would like to note there was this bearing coating they started using called iROX which was very impressive at the microscopic and testing level. It had to go on the front and back bearings to pass Stop-Start because of wear and was very expensive. They likely added that to the rest of bearings to make them work but I don't know for sure, I will have to ask. Regardless, the bearing surface area did not likely increase so from a basic physics point of view your hydrodynamic response to "filling it with water" as we called it will not go in a safer direction at lower rpm.

 

[Casique]

May just want to keep it stock....

 

[sharpsicle]

For the love of God, please don't turn this into another oil thread...

 

[Skyler7381]

You just need to make sure none of the battery cable ends touch against each other or against anything metal in the engine bay while changing the batteries.

When I changed the Aux battery in my sister's Compass last week, I used some plastic bottles and cups to put over the end of each cable as I disconnected them.

Yeah I didn't mention it in my post but I just put some thick grocery bags over each one, you can see it in one of the photos

 

[Skyler7381]

Baffling to me why anyone who's out of warranty would install another aux battery instead of doing the simple bypass or a full delete. But it's a Burger King world. Have it your way.

It hasn't given me any issues thus far and I just wanted to keep it stock. If it does start giving my issues the bypass isn't hard to do.

 

[Skyler7381]

Maybe add a link to the push pins you needed too? Might save someone an extra trip.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...ck-2020-jeep-gladiator?q=Chrysler+trim&pos=11

 

[SargeDiesel]

May just want to keep it stock....

What kind of crazy talk is this !
Just kidding... sometimes "stock" gets lost in this crowd

 

[willys 41]

It hasn't given me any issues thus far and I just wanted to keep it stock. If it does start giving my issues the bypass isn't hard to do.

From the start I used a Tazer to turn off the ESS and all was good until the AUX battery went bad on my Rubicon
The battery's where only 1.5 years old
When the AUX battery faild one morning I tried to start it 3 times and on the third time all went black and it fried my 8.4 radio (non repairable)
$750 for a used radio and $200 for a new main battery
From that point forward both my Willys and Rubicon I have done the AUX battery delete
Number 1 rule. Never never use dissimilarly battery's in a system

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