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AUX battery delete and using Antigravity Brand Battery

RidinDirty

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Just saw the latest Lite Brite vid and they had been running an AUX battery delete for sometime. Is this something that can be done with out setting off any electrical issues. Looks like they basically disconnected the AUX battery and just taped off the connectors. They stated they ran this for several years but were still having issues with main battery dying (unclear if related). Although we do know a bad AUX battery will eventually pummel the main one to death.

The second was use of the new Lithium Battery from Antigravity. Anyone run these. Lookin
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ShadowsPapa

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Although we do know a bad AUX battery will eventually pummel the main one to death.
No, just in some cases. It doesn't always do that. That's web lore.

There's a couple of threads here on doing the aux delete. I think it might have been Jerry who posted how to do it, what connections to remove, and fuse removal, etc.
It's been done and there's very very good write-ups on it in here posted by the people who actually know (and don't just hack until it works)

The second was use of the new Lithium Battery from Antigravity. Anyone run these. Lookin
Be careful changing battery types- different battery chemistries can require different charging rates, have different voltage limits and voltage needs.
These are programmed for the voltage and charging cycles required by AGM batteries.
When it's colder out (say in the 30s) mine runs 14.8-14.9 for several miles - if that would kill a lithium battery, don't do it!
These also will shut charging down to 12.6 or 12.7 volts under certain conditions - based on AGM batteries.

The best way to make your crank/main battery last is to use the truck, always drive distances over 20-30 minutes, don't let it sit for days at a time, and if you have to let it sit or have to make short drives, put a battery tender on it.
Short drives, sitting, infrequent use - kills batteries. Letting them get below 50% charge or so for extended periods kills batteries.
 

ShadowsPapa

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Me: Short drives, sitting, infrequent use. No tender. Truck is 1 year old no problems yet, lol.
Things seem to be not so bad for the first year - will be interesting to see how things work out in the next year for ya. Maybe ok - sure hope so. Very possible. It's just that all of the battery experts, battery makers, sellers and more talk the same thing..................

I have noticed that my 2022 is a lot different than my 2020 was - I wonder if they changed some of the charging or other battery parameters. Mine spends a lot more time in the 14s than the 2020 did.
 

ecidiego

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Things seem to be not so bad for the first year - will be interesting to see how things work out in the next year for ya. Maybe ok - sure hope so. Very possible. It's just that all of the battery experts, battery makers, sellers and more talk the same thing..................

I have noticed that my 2022 is a lot different than my 2020 was - I wonder if they changed some of the charging or other battery parameters. Mine spends a lot more time in the 14s than the 2020 did.
I'm sure I'm on borrowed time. Will give an excuse to put a better battery in at least.
 

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cb4017

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There is a lengthy thread over on the JL Wrangler forums on this. Basically you disconnect the ground for the aux battery and put a jumper on the fuse box N1 to N2. This removes the aux battery from the circuit but still powers everything it does from the main battery through the jumper.

I made a heavy gauged and fused jumper and keep in my my Jeep. As I recall with a 20 amp fuse. The aux battery croaking at some of the places I go would be very bad.
 

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i run a anti gravity battery in my dirt bike, it's a good battery. It's Lithium based and has some smarts built into it to protect the battery from over and under charge.
 

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Kev seems to forget he's got a hemi and his ess is long gone, programmed out by AMW. If you just disconnect the aux and don't reconnect either jump n1 to N2, or run the positive from the aux up to the Main, you will get ESS errors.

I have a lithium battery in my motorcycle, made by Battery Tender. And if I remember correctly, they said it doesn't like to go below about 45-50 degrees. Wonder how the AntiGravity does in cold.
 

rubicon4wheeler

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Be careful changing battery types- different battery chemistries can require different charging rates, have different voltage limits and voltage needs.
These are programmed for the voltage and charging cycles required by AGM batteries.
When it's colder out (say in the 30s) mine runs 14.8-14.9 for several miles - if that would kill a lithium battery, don't do it!
These also will shut charging down to 12.6 or 12.7 volts under certain conditions - based on AGM batteries.
This is my concern with upgrading to lithium batteries. Automotive charging systems are designed for lead-acid batteries, not lithium. Antigravity Batteries is marketing their batteries specifically for automotive use (hence their giveaways to "influencers" like Kevin & Brittany Williams) but I'd rather rely on an endorsement from a chemical or electrical engineer who actually knows something about the battery and its BMS before I drop $1k on a lithium battery and then kill it due to using it in an improper electrical environment.

Yes, lithium batteries have been used successfully in race cars for many years, but these are not a normal automotive use case; not only do race cars not perform daily driven cycles, but their batteries will be charged while parked with a proper lithium charger. Most racers would consider a battery to be a disposable item anyway - as long as they get to the finish line, who cares about battery after that since it can be swapped out for a fresh one.

While great for powering accessories and for deep cycling, lithium batteries are also not known for being ideal for high-draw use cases, such as winching; lead-acid has almost always been the superior chemistry for that scenario. The wide range of temperatures that automotive batteries are subjected to are also not lithium-friendly. I know nothing about Antigravity's batteries though, so perhaps they've addressed these issues as well. I would certainly prefer a lithium battery under my hood, but until one is proven to be right for the application, I'll stick to AGM-SLA batteries.
 

rharr

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like any LI battery, it's a little sluggish when you first go to start the bike. So it's good practice to wake it up by putting a little load to it then stop then hammer on it till it starts.

With the jeep you turning on the jeep will put a good load on the battery before you even go to crank it.

That being said I'll stick to AGM for cars until LI become OEM for every car manufactured.
 

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Randonexplosion

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Ive used Antigravity batteries in 3 different old Japanese bikes. They are definitely sluggish in colder temps, sometimes not even able to crank until you put some load on them. They also require a different regulator/rectifier to put out a higher charging voltage. You're also not supposed to jump start them. I don't think it would be a good idea to mix a lithium ion in with an AGM.
 

jebiruph

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There is a lengthy thread over on the JL Wrangler forums on this. Basically you disconnect the ground for the aux battery and put a jumper on the fuse box N1 to N2. This removes the aux battery from the circuit but still powers everything it does from the main battery through the jumper.

I made a heavy gauged and fused jumper and keep in my my Jeep. As I recall with a 20 amp fuse. The aux battery croaking at some of the places I go would be very bad.
Latest info, pull fuse 42 and no jumper needed. https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/jumperless-aux-battery-bypass.95945/#post-1988194
 

BearFootSam

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If you read the fine print on some of the major automotive lithium batteries, they have a caveat that in very cold weather, you need to 'wake up' the battery before it starts generating full amperage output. One firm recommends that you turn on your headlamps for a few minutes to start drawing current, which will get the battery chemistry primed for a start. The issue that concerns me about this is that with our dual battery system and sophisticated (complicated) SOC comparison setup, if the ECM sees a charge differential across the batteries due to either chemistry or the cold start peculiarities of lithium, you may get error codes or other undesired effects.

Over the past two weeks, I have driven in temps down to 4*F and found that as the ambient temperature drops, my charging voltage tends to stay higher in the 14v range, even when well up to temp and traveling at speed.
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