AUX battery delete and using Antigravity Brand Battery

[PackMule]

FWIW Re: LIFPO batteries and cold weather operation: some companies sell battery warmers for their LIFPO batteries. I put them on my RV batteries In my recent LIFPO conversion on my RV using Lion Energy batteries, because I live in Montana, and even 3-season camping can get me below 33, easy.

The Lion Energy warmers I have are essentially an insulated pouch that fits snugly around the battery. Mine has an on/off switch (so you leave it off until the weather gets cold), and automatic thermostat built in. It has its own 12v leads, so in theory in this application you could run the battery heater for the start battery off of an aux battery and save the cranking battery amps.

Disclaimer: My application above is in RVs, not heard of it tried in automotive applications, just offering it up as a suggestion given the new ground being trod with LIFPO in ICE OE swap automotive applications.

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[XraytecH]

FWIW Re: LIFPO batteries and cold weather operation: some companies sell battery warmers for their LIFPO batteries. I put them on my RV batteries In my recent LIFPO conversion on my RV using Lion Energy batteries, because I live in Montana, and even 3-season camping can get me below 33, easy.

The Lion Energy warmers I have are essentially an insulated pouch that fits snugly around the battery. Mine has an on/off switch (so you leave it off until the weather gets cold), and automatic thermostat built in. It has its own 12v leads, so in theory in this application you could run the battery heater for the start battery off of an aux battery and save the cranking battery amps.

Disclaimer: My application above is in RVs, not heard of it tried in automotive applications, just offering it up as a suggestion given the new ground being trod with LIFPO in ICE OE swap automotive applications.

Been running a AntiGravity battery for about a month now and it is doing what it is designed to do.

Link to all my updates. Next update in a month.
https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...avity-h7-is-doing-the-job.90742/#post-1473780

 

[brsnow2585]

The Antigravity picture posted earlier set off a couple flags in my head. Built in jump start...?? So another battery to jump the battery it's contained in. and the 13.8 voltage, that's generally about what an alternator puts out to run the vehicle and top off the 12V lead acid battery. I guess that shouldn't blow out electronics, but would it actually charge proper?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

The Antigravity picture posted earlier set off a couple flags in my head. Built in jump start...?? So another battery to jump the battery it's contained in. and the 13.8 voltage, that's generally about what an alternator puts out to run the vehicle and top off the 12V lead acid battery. I guess that shouldn't blow out electronics, but would it actually charge proper?

The voltage on these ranges from about 12.4 when the battery is hot and fully charged to 15.0 when it's cold outside and the battery is low on charge.
These are made to configure to AGM battery charging profiles. So unless the lithium battery has its own electronics to modify charging rates and voltages, sorry, no lithium battery for me. In Iowa, it would be problematic.

The IBS is intended to chart an AGM battery and the BCM keeps track of what's going out vs what's going into the battery. Will that lithium battery handle 15.0 volts of the charging system in these trucks? Will it stay charged if there's only 12.7 to 13.0 volts, which mine does a lot of the time in good weather when the battery is fully charged.

Don't sweat the "electronics" - nothing powers them directly. They take that system voltage of 12 to 15 and control the voltage internally. Even some of the lighting is voltage-regulated.

 

[XraytecH]

The Antigravity picture posted earlier set off a couple flags in my head. Built in jump start...?? So another battery to jump the battery it's contained in. and the 13.8 voltage, that's generally about what an alternator puts out to run the vehicle and top off the 12V lead acid battery. I guess that shouldn't blow out electronics, but would it actually charge proper?

There's no separate jumper pack in these batteries. If the battery runs down to a specific voltage the BMS will disconnect. Pushing the ReStart button reconnects the battery and what ever reserve is left (that's the "Built-In Jump Start") can be used to start the engine.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

There's no separate jumper pack in these batteries. If the battery runs down to a specific voltage the BMS will disconnect. Pushing the ReStart button reconnects the battery and what ever reserve is left (that's the "Built-In Jump Start") can be used to start the engine.

So if it gets below a certain voltage - you lose all vehicle electrics and electronics such as locks and so on - leaving it effectively dead until you press the "ReStart" button - and then that will have enough to power the systems AND start it?
So what is that minimum voltage?

 

[XraytecH]

So if it gets below a certain voltage - you lose all vehicle electrics and electronics such as locks and so on - leaving it effectively dead until you press the "ReStart" button - and then that will have enough to power the systems AND start it?
So what is that minimum voltage?

Hard to track down that number even on the Antigravity website. I've read 20% SoC so that's 11.6V in AGM world and 12.6V for LiFePo.

 

[XraytecH]

So if it gets below a certain voltage - you lose all vehicle electrics and electronics such as locks and so on - leaving it effectively dead until you press the "ReStart" button - and then that will have enough to power the systems AND start it?
So what is that minimum voltage?

Also under the warranty page, letting these things run down below 9.8V voids the warranty. Don't know if that is relevant to your question but more info is good info.

 

[JTGuy]

It looks like I need batteries but not going to spend the $$$ for LIPOs just for fun when a good Odyssey battery will work for years. My only question is do I keep the ESS battery in place with a new one?

 

[XraytecH]

It looks like I need batteries but not going to spend the $$$ for LIPOs just for fun when a good Odyssey battery will work for years. My only question is do I keep the ESS battery in place with a new one?

I've read that you should replace both.

 

[Chadnutz]

Latest info, pull fuse 42 and no jumper needed. https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/jumperless-aux-battery-bypass.95945/#post-1988194

I did this and ever time I start up and start rolling it says AUX switches aren't available. They are available soon after, but I get the warning every time.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I did this and ever time I start up and start rolling it says AUX switches aren't available. They are available soon after, but I get the warning every time.

Because your battery voltage is low it the system is seeing a problem with it.
You either don't drive it enough, or there's some other reason the battery voltage is low.

It has nothing to do with an "aux" battery at all, it's simply a low voltage issue at the battery.

 

[Chadnutz]

Because your battery voltage is low it the system is seeing a problem with it.
You either don't drive it enough, or there's some other reason the battery voltage is low.

It has nothing to do with an "aux" battery at all, it's simply a low voltage issue at the battery.

The battery is brand new Platinum Super Start from O'Reilly. I've had it in for a few days. I'm rural. Most trips are at least 40 minutes during the week and 15 minutes on weekends.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

The battery is brand new Platinum Super Start from O'Reilly. I've had it in for a few days. I'm rural. Most trips are at least 40 minutes during the week and 15 minutes on weekends.

1. Did you fully charge it before installing it?
2. Did you disconnect the IBS and let it reset while swapping batteries?

That aux switch not available message is definitely a low voltage issue.
It's nothing at all to do with an aux battery or lack of one.


If you didn't do 1 and 2 above, maybe you should.

 

[Chadnutz]

1. Did you fully charge it before installing it?
2. Did you disconnect the IBS and let it reset while swapping batteries?

That aux switch not available message is definitely a low voltage issue.
It's nothing at all to do with an aux battery or lack of one.


If you didn't do 1 and 2 above, maybe you should.

I disconnected the negative terminal for > 30 minutes, and also disconnected the connector to the sensor on the negative terminal. I assumed that was the IBS sensor. During this time I hit it with the charger on 10 A. Now the battery runs at 12.6 while cruising, at when I decelerate it quickly ramps up to 14.0. As soon as I hit the throttle it drops back to 12.6. I drove 30 minutes. I don't think I got a warning, but I'll pay close attention when I leave today.

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