Aux battery, delete, now working again. ???

[sharpsicle]

Update:
So yesterday I got the dreaded “auto stop/start needs service” Light and warning. At the next motor shut down and start, same day, warning light was off and all working normal again.???
This is so bizarre?

If you have the AUX disconnected, I'd recommend disabling ESS at every startup. There's a reason they added a 2nd battery to accommodate ESS, you're likely seeing the side effects of trying to run it just with the main. I wouldn't be surprised if it's noticing the voltage drops and flagging it as a problem.

If you want to continue to have ESS operate, I would instead suggest returning the batteries to stock configuration. The choice is yours.

Sponsored

 

[ShadowsPapa]

If you have the AUX disconnected, I'd recommend disabling ESS at every startup. There's a reason they added a 2nd battery to accommodate ESS, you're likely seeing the side effects of trying to run it just with the main. I wouldn't be surprised if it's noticing the voltage drops and flagging it as a problem.

If you want to continue to have ESS operate, I would instead suggest returning the batteries to stock configuration. The choice is yours.

At the very least, time to check out the main battery.............. start monitoring the voltage via the gauge in the cluster as well.

 

[Planerdude]

At the very least, time to check out the main battery.............. start monitoring the voltage via the gauge in the cluster as well.

Its a brand new group 94r agm battery.

 

[Josh00333]

I would pull the aux battery all together, or would have when I was replacing the battery. No reason to carry the dead weight.

That's cool a larger battery fit, was it just drop in? Pics?

 

[Josh00333]

Oh ok, interesting, I've already got the larger bat.

A JL or JT with tow package leaves the factory with an H7-AGM Group Size 94R Main battery.

A JL or JT without the tow package leaves the factory with a Group 48 H6 Main battery, which is a tad shorter in length then the H7-AGM Group Size 94R.

With that said, if you go to install an H7-AGM Group Size 94R battery in a JL or JT that left the factory with a Group 48 H6 battery you will, in order to install the H7, have to remove a small plastic stay/cleat you will find in the bottom of the Main's battery holder box. The stay/cleat comes out very easily.

 

[Jeeper479]

Just to add to this thread!
My 21 has been giving me the message Start/Stop Not Ready for probably 6 months. We recently got hit with some super cold weather and when I started my truck the other day I got the A! error light for the start/stop and a message that said start/stop not ready service start/stop. It also wouldn't start with the remote start.

I removed the N42 fuse and the aux battery negative cable from the big battery, but still got the warning light A! and the messages.

The next day I removed the positive from the Aux battery and attached it to the main battery and replaced the N42 fuse. All the dash lights went off and the Start/Stop started working correctly again.

But then the next day I remote started by truck at noon and went and ate lunch, but when I tried to use the remote start at 5 it didn't work. So, my assumption is that my main battery is dying and I'm planning to replace it this week.

Truck shows 12.4v when not turned on and shows 14.7v when driving.

I don't plan to use the ESS and generally always turn it off, but it did function correctly when connected to only the main battery.

 

[aqcjeepGlad]

Just to add to this thread!
My 21 has been giving me the message Start/Stop Not Ready for probably 6 months. We recently got hit with some super cold weather and when I started my truck the other day I got the A! error light for the start/stop and a message that said start/stop not ready service start/stop. It also wouldn't start with the remote start.

I removed the N42 fuse and the aux battery negative cable from the big battery, but still got the warning light A! and the messages.

The next day I removed the positive from the Aux battery and attached it to the main battery and replaced the N42 fuse. All the dash lights went off and the Start/Stop started working correctly again.

But then the next day I remote started by truck at noon and went and ate lunch, but when I tried to use the remote start at 5 it didn't work. So, my assumption is that my main battery is dying and I'm planning to replace it this week.

Truck shows 12.4v when not turned on and shows 14.7v when driving.

I don't plan to use the ESS and generally always turn it off, but it did function correctly when connected to only the main battery.

So how has it been working?
My ESS has not worked for over a year and sometimes very briefly I'll get an ESS not ready message. The voltage is 14.7 with engine running, not sure with the engine off. Have not had any problems with electronics or starting or anything. Am I running on borrowed time for over a year? I generally drive less than 10 minutes at slower speeds and it is HOT, no problems.

 

[Mr._Bill]

So how has it been working?
My ESS has not worked for over a year and sometimes very briefly I'll get an ESS not ready message. The voltage is 14.7 with engine running, not sure with the engine off. Have not had any problems with electronics or starting or anything. Am I running on borrowed time for over a year? I generally drive less than 10 minutes at slower speeds and it is HOT, no problems.

How old are the batteries? If near three years, plan to replace them soon. You are the type that will have short battery life, since it is never driven long enough to charge them. You should have a battery maintainer connected when it is not being driven. First step would be to separately charge each existing battery, and reset the IBS module. You may be able to extend the life of the existing batteries.

 

[aqcjeepGlad]

How old are the batteries? If near three years, plan to replace them soon. You are the type that will have short battery life, since it is never driven long enough to charge them. You should have a battery maintainer connected when it is not being driven. First step would be to separately charge each existing battery, and reset the IBS module. You may be able to extend the life of the existing batteries.

Sounds like I should start shopping for batteries as I'm coming up on three years. I'll have to check my warranty for coverage, not sure where batteries fall. Thanks

 

[Hootbro]

Sounds like I should start shopping for batteries as I'm coming up on three years. I'll have to check my warranty for coverage, not sure where batteries fall. Thanks

Batteries fall within the 3/36 bumper to bumper warranty. The dealership has a defined process to test each battery separately that gives a print out they can submit to corporate (if they failed the test) for warranty approval.

 

[aqcjeepGlad]

Batteries fall within the 3/36 bumper to bumper warranty. The dealership has a defined process to test each battery separately that gives a print out they can submit to corporate (if they failed the test) for warranty approval.

Funny situation. Removed the AUX battery because I thought that was the one going bad. Jeep would not start (yes I was sure to remove the AUX from the circuit and not the MAIN). Replaced the MAIN battery and all is fine and working now. Thus, the AUX was the only thing keeping my JEEP alive for the past 6 or more months. Did not bother with taking it to the dealer as that is a 30 minute drive and would require me to drive another vehicle along with the JEEP and involve another person, so they could have all the time they needed to TEST the system completely.

Sponsored