Yes. You can get in the habit of pressing the dash button after startup, as I have, or you can use one of several devices methods to disable ESS if you don't like it.
What happens if I let it function normally, without pushing the disable button?
It works as normal. Just with one battery instead of two.
if you are certain you do not want the aux battery you can remove it, pull fuse 42 and remove the aux battery cables. But you will have to make a jumper between N1 and N3. Theres a few threads here on that.
It will work normally until the main battery starts to degrade. The purpose of the Aux battery is to keep the computers and electronics stable during ESS events. Having all the computers reboot from low voltage when ESS tries to restart the engine will cause a bit of a delay for you.
I wonder if anyone has run into an actual problem with that though. Just letting ESS do its thing with the aux battery gone. I wouldn't think anything would really go wrong since the system would restart the truck before voltage gets too low.
I have not read about anyone dealing with this. Those that do the Aux delete usually don't let ESS activate. If the voltage level is low enough, ESS won't activate. There are the marginal systems where the voltage level may be just high enough for it to activate, but have a sudden drop when the starter spins. That is theory, though, with no known cases reported.
I am going to keep the aux deleted and let the auto stop/start function normally (leaving it on) and see how it goes without any issues ?
With the new 94R battery, you should be good for a couple years. Just watch for the ESS or Aux switch unavailable messages on the center screen. Those are the indicators that battery maintenance is needed.
Why the jumper? Everything is working fine without it now. What is the purpose of doing it?
If all you have removed is the negative cable from the aux battery, you do not need the jumper.
Because that aux battery delete and pulling the fuse has nothing to do with ESS.
Just takes the aux battery offline - that is all, nothing more.
Now you are confusing him with more complex steps - he's not understood the first steps quite yet.
Someone here has installed a battery that matched the combined capacity of the two original batteries and there's no reason it shouldn't be ok.
I'd leave it exactly as it is - especially if you may ever need a real dealer to work on the truck.
The system compares the battery voltages during an auto stop and if it reads the same voltage on both batteries, (which it does if it's only using one battery) six times in a row, it concludes there is a defect with the system and disables the auto stop until the next cold start.
