Mopar undercoat?

[geckosrt8]

Just picked up a 2023 rubicon 2 days ago. 43 miles on it!
dealer offered me the mopar undercoat for basically free. (500$ vs the 1200$ cost) I’ve been a buyer there a long time.
so I said ok great!
As it was explained to me it’s a non rubber permanent liquid/ wax like substance.
they dry the underneath with blowers to ensure it’s 100% dry. Apply it underneath and inside the doors. Then let it sit for about 2-3 hours. It comes with a lifetime rust guarantee.

Anyone familiar with this stuff? its not fluid film as far as I can tell. Even if it’s snake oil , they guarantee I’m going to be rust free forever.

Thanks for this info!

I'm interested too ?

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[rhaney02]

There's a sucker born every minute....

 

[ShadowsPapa]

There's a sucker born every minute....

Why? Some of those products are actually quite good. I've dealt with vehicle repairs and restoration for decades and I'll always go with the company that my dealer uses for the undercoating. It's not like the old-school stuff (which often wasn't undercoating - people confuse that with the factory sound deadening and they are VERY different products for different purposes)
It can also cut inside sounds down a bit compared to bare metal panels. It's one reason the factories sprayed a heavy sound deadening inside the doors (flat panels really conduct sound, resonate, etc.) I have specs for the factory sound deadening for some cars showing exactly where it's to be sprayed, line drawings of the undercarriage showing placement and so on.
The dealer undercoating was still in place on a 1970 car I had - there was NO RUST on the undercarriage of that car - even though it had been from PA to NE to MN then to IA (the latter two heavy salt states)
What the company our dealer uses applies isn't the stuff people think of. It's more of a waxy but sticky substance as described in other posts here.
Having been in the automotive business for decades - I absolutely will use that every time.
Those who truly know from years of hands on experience wouldn't comment like that.

 

[rhaney02]

Why? Some of those products are actually quite good. I've dealt with vehicle repairs and restoration for decades and I'll always go with the company that my dealer uses for the undercoating. It's not like the old-school stuff (which often wasn't undercoating - people confuse that with the factory sound deadening and they are VERY different products for different purposes)
It can also cut inside sounds down a bit compared to bare metal panels. It's one reason the factories sprayed a heavy sound deadening inside the doors (flat panels really conduct sound, resonate, etc.) I have specs for the factory sound deadening for some cars showing exactly where it's to be sprayed, line drawings of the undercarriage showing placement and so on.
The dealer undercoating was still in place on a 1970 car I had - there was NO RUST on the undercarriage of that car - even though it had been from PA to NE to MN then to IA (the latter two heavy salt states)
What the company our dealer uses applies isn't the stuff people think of. It's more of a waxy but sticky substance as described in other posts here.
Having been in the automotive business for decades - I absolutely will use that every time.
Those who truly know from years of hands on experience wouldn't comment like that.

Guess I'm spoiled from where I live and don't have to deal with that much snow and brined roads.

Even if I did, I wouldn't pay more than $100 for a process like this.

You do you dude.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Guess I'm spoiled from where I live and don't have to deal with that much snow and brined roads.

Even if I did, I wouldn't pay more than $100 for a process like this.

You do you dude.

You can't buy the materials alone to do a full job for that. Not quality materials that you don't keep putting on each year.
Apparently you aren't familiar with the materials, or their application and tools used in the process.
You don't live here and NOT treat things in some way - unless you love rot and rust.

 

[rhaney02]

You can't buy the materials alone to do a full job for that. Not quality materials that you don't keep putting on each year.
Apparently you aren't familiar with the materials, or their application and tools used in the process.
You don't live here and NOT treat things in some way - unless you love rot and rust.

Did I just not state that in my post? Apparently, you didn't read that far.

As I said, you do you....

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Wow, but then..........

 

[starrskream]

I'm interested too ?

its called zurich shield

 

[starrskream]

Did I just not state that in my post? Apparently, you didn't read that far.

As I said, you do you....

definitely living in georgia you dont see salt like I do in NY. My black truck is white most days december to feb. Driving on the interstate there will be a layer of salt so thick it looks like a scotchbrite pad.

Buffalo NY averages 40,000 TONS (80,000,000lbs) of salt per winter. They also mix in sand and will sometimes use a liquid salt brine on roads. ( https://www.wgrz.com/article/weather/buffalo-public-works-using-more-salt-this-winter/71-272955169 ) article is from 2014, so im sure that number is higher now.

SO yeah, undercoating, repainting, and any rustproofing you can get your hands on is of paramount importance. In your case it would be a "it couldn't hurt" kind of situation. You can buy PB Blaster's Surface shield as a DIY option. aerosol or hvlp sprayer options. DIY cost will be sub 300$ and a few hours of your time. Be sure your surface is immaculate clean and 100% dry before you apply it. My dealer got in there with leaf blowers and air compressor nozzles to make sure all water was gone. then after spraying it had to sit for 3 hours.
They sprayed inside the doors, tailgate, behind fender wells, inside the frame anywhere they could get the tube into. It took them about 45 mins to dry it off and another 2 hours to spray. shop time alone I got my moneys worth at 500$

 

[Jrgunn5150]

Fluid film, wool wax, NOHOU, PB Blaster, Mopar mikes Magic sauce...

It's all the same variation, some petroleum base, some paraffin wax.

If you seal the surface, it can't rust, basic AF really. Wherever it's at when you seal it, is where it will stay as long as the coating stays.

We do this where I'm from by spraying waste engine oil, which has no wax to thicken or bond it, so it has to be done more frequently.

I make this stuff for myself with waste engine oil, grease, and toliet wax rings. Nothing I own is rusty, at all, in Michigan. Unless I just bought it and haven't fixed it yet.

For my (wifes) Gladiator, we use Wool Wax because it smells nicer, and even then, it's very cheap when applied yourself.

Any, or all of these work, way more important to choose one, and do it once per year, than to nit pick back and forth about brands.

500 bucks is double what any independent shop would charge you, and it is not a forever coating, needs to be redone.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Fluid film, wool wax, NOHOU, PB Blaster, Mopar mikes Magic sauce...

It's all the same variation, some petroleum base, some paraffin wax.

If you seal the surface, it can't rust, basic AF really. Wherever it's at when you seal it, is where it will stay as long as the coating stays.

We do this where I'm from by spraying waste engine oil, which has no wax to thicken or bond it, so it has to be done more frequently.

I make this stuff for myself with waste engine oil, grease, and toliet wax rings. Nothing I own is rusty, at all, in Michigan. Unless I just bought it and haven't fixed it yet.

For my (wifes) Gladiator, we use Wool Wax because it smells nicer, and even then, it's very cheap when applied yourself.

Any, or all of these work, way more important to choose one, and do it once per year, than to nit pick back and forth about brands.

500 bucks is double what any independent shop would charge you, and it is not a forever coating, needs to be redone.

The second shop I worked in was owned by a guy who was very old-school in many ways - and he had a late 1950s Buick which he prized. Every fall he'd bring the car into the shop, up onto the hoist it went, and he'd spray the whole underside with a mixture of linseed oil and something else I can't remember after 40 years.
NO squeaks, the thing was whisper quiet - no rust at all.
Do I recommend it? No, rather messy, but it sure kept the suspension/springs quiet and the underside rust-free for decades.

and toliet wax rings.

New, or used?

 

[Jrgunn5150]

The second shop I worked in was owned by a guy who was very old-school in many ways - and he had a late 1950s Buick which he prized. Every fall he'd bring the car into the shop, up onto the hoist it went, and he'd spray the whole underside with a mixture of linseed oil and something else I can't remember after 40 years.
NO squeaks, the thing was whisper quiet - no rust at all.
Do I recommend it? No, rather messy, but it sure kept the suspension/springs quiet and the underside rust-free for decades.



New, or used?

An example I often use is, how often do you pull a greasy, leaking engine from an old truck and scrap the 35 years of crud off the crossmember underneath to find rot?

In Michigan, anything under the oil pan is probably the nicest part on the whole truck when you get through the grime lol.

 

[starrskream]

500 bucks is double what any independent shop would charge you, and it is not a forever coating, needs to be redone.

the one applied to my truck is a wax. Can be reapplied for free every three years at no charge. I do plan to touch up myself every summer.

 

[JonMN]

Almost anything (that does not set up solid) is better than nothing! Tons of salt here in MN too. I set myself up to do Woolwax with air sprayer and gave it a shot. I plan to touch it up annually. (We did nothing on our 2008 Ford truck. It's so rusty mechanics can not even work on it! Even had the oil dipstick seized in.)

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Almost anything (that does not set up solid) is better than nothing! Tons of salt here in MN too. I set myself up to do Woolwax with air sprayer and gave it a shot. I plan to touch it up annually. (We did nothing on our 2008 Ford truck. It's so rusty mechanics can not even work on it! Even had the oil dipstick seized in.)

Did nothing on my 95 Ford and after just a few years, there was rust literally flaking off the frame and other areas. It was a nasty mess under there.

Seal it, and if it's already started, use a rust converter then seal it.

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