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My gladiator lost coolant and over heated

NC_Overland

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This was a choice - and the choice was to drive on and destroy it.
Most people working in a profession knows where water boils, and what the result is of boiling water, etc. so it was a choice knowing the result was likely destruction.
But we'll likely never know the rest of the story.
I know people say "late is not an option" but I've never had a boss who wouldn't allow for things beyond one's control especially if you call and warn them - I'm trying to get there but things blew up. (and I've had a couple of bosses that were the absolutely pits, the worst, just plain nasty)
I hope the oil was changed immediately. I’d imagine the transmission probably got hot too if the cooling system was that overwhelmed and failed like that. I’ve noticed that my coolant, oil, and transmission all stay about the same temperature when cruising down the hwy.
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Beewdawg

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Noticed my 2021 Jeep Gladiator’s fan was coming on a few days ago. Today it came on and I smelled antifreeze, then temp gauge came on indicating high engine temp.

Pulled over to check engine bay and discovered dealership didn’t put my fill cap back on coolant reservoir after they did the check/top off during oil change and service. It was about 3 weeks ago it was changed, and since that time no issues, including a trip from here to Jacksonville, NC, a 13 hour drive.

Anyway, made it to the next gas station like 4 miles away. Temp was between 265-295. Refilled with antifreeze and engine seems to be fine now.

Any idea if there will be any long term issues!l? So pissed I didn’t follow behind the dealership to make sure they did everything correctly.

thanks in advance!
~Nick
You shouldn't have to recheck work done at the dealership.
If so, why bother taking your vehicle to supposedly trained professionals?
 

ShadowsPapa

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I hope the oil was changed immediately. I’d imagine the transmission probably got hot too if the cooling system was that overwhelmed and failed like that. I’ve noticed that my coolant, oil, and transmission all stay about the same temperature when cruising down the hwy.
Interesting, I can see big differences in mine - I can run 220 coolant, 190 oil and the transmission temperature not even close to either. It varies, the coolant and oil leepfrog each other, the transmission stays stable once it's warmed up. BUT - engine overheated that much, you have to be right or close - it had to have gotten hotter with the heat transfer.
 

NC_Overland

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Interesting, I can see big differences in mine - I can run 220 coolant, 190 oil and the transmission temperature not even close to either. It varies, the coolant and oil leepfrog each other, the transmission stays stable once it's warmed up. BUT - engine overheated that much, you have to be right or close - it had to have gotten hotter with the heat transfer.
It must have a 212 degree thermostat because that’s where the engine stays steady and the rest stay about the same never more. I mean, I don’t study it, but that’s what I’ve noticed when I’ve looked.

Except on the beach in 4low. I pay attention there and when towing. I’ve seen it go slightly over, but never more than 220. We basically drive the same thing. 2020 Overland automatics with factory tow and slightly bigger tires.
 

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Haven't checked....is there not a low coolant light on these?
 

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ShadowsPapa

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It must have a 212 degree thermostat because that’s where the engine stays steady and the rest stay about the same never more. I mean, I don’t study it, but that’s what I’ve noticed when I’ve looked.
Mine varies............. no stead or solid temperature. Once it's warmed up I see it move, easily 20 degrees.
These apparently sense the thermostat temperature as there's a TSB about an error where things don't match up.
Anyway, I can be driving along at 70 mph and see the temps go to 220, down to 195, back up to 200, then down to 192, then up to 210, etc.
 

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You'll want to have them pressure test the system and do a check for combustion gases in the cooling system. Would be a good idea to have a sample of the oil sent for analysis after the next change. Running that hot can cause issues - doesn't mean there will be issues, but it's a possibility.
Like I said, coolant will boil - without pressure on the system, at about 223 degrees, 15 psi pressure will raise that to about 265-270.
Although you saw less than 300, if the coolant boiled at any spot inside the engine, that part of the engine saw temperatures higher than that.

Get it checked thoroughly - even your less than 300 is a danger zone. I've seen some bad stuff happen.......
I'm thinking warped cylinder heads. At least that's what would happen to the old Saabs and Subarus I used to work on if they were run low on coolant.

Check for foaming around the oil filler, indicating coolant in the oil. Check for oily residue in the water reservoir, indicating oil in the coolant. And finally send off some oil for an analysis.

Ideally the dealer should pay for this.
 

dcmdon

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Mine varies............. no stead or solid temperature. Once it's warmed up I see it move, easily 20 degrees.
These apparently sense the thermostat temperature as there's a TSB about an error where things don't match up.
Anyway, I can be driving along at 70 mph and see the temps go to 220, down to 195, back up to 200, then down to 192, then up to 210, etc.
That's interesting. I drove for 2 weeks with my temp gauge set as the primary center instrument. Mine runs between 190 and 195 pretty much constantly.
 

ShadowsPapa

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Ideally the dealer should pay for this.
Welll, they have an out. He kept driving. Had they stopped at the first sign of trouble, then yes, the dealer should pay towing and repairs. But when you keep driving and especially to this degree, it's you causing the damage.
I've been through this before - we towed a Ford truck in, hole in oil pan, engine seized. We fixed it with a good used engine. The guy said he was covered under his insurance. Insurance company said they'd pay for the pan and the oil - not for the engine because he knew of the hole but kept on driving. The engine was on him.
No, this is a split responsibility thing. Had they stopped right away, that's one thing, but to keep driving with temperatures that damned high, knowing the risk and still insisting you are going on - if I was the dealer I'd fight it tooth and nail.
 

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Dennis K

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I blew a lower hose at 180 miles. Overheated but I can't tell you what temp it got to. Definitely worrying.
Towed 140 miles to the dealer and they found the clamp had been installed improperly.
Just went over 7000 miles with no worries since. Will have dealer check everything out thoroughly at first service. Oil looks good still...
Not something I would have thought to check...
 
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njc2rn

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Dealership changed my oil and flushed and refilled my coolant free of charge. They apologized multiples times. Has ran perfect ever since.

I work in an ICU… I had no plans to drive it further than the 3 miles from where I was to the gas station to get more coolant, but because of our current staffing, high census and acuity of our patients, being was something I really wanted to avoid.

If I screwed the engine long term I will deal with it when I get there. It certainly won’t be the end of the world.

Life’s too short to worry about it too much ?
 

dcmdon

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Dealership changed my oil and flushed and refilled my coolant free of charge. They apologized multiples times. Has ran perfect ever since.

I work in an ICU… I had no plans to drive it further than the 3 miles from where I was to the gas station to get more coolant, but because of our current staffing, high census and acuity of our patients, being was something I really wanted to avoid.

If I screwed the engine long term I will deal with it when I get there. It certainly won’t be the end of the world.

Life’s too short to worry about it too much ?
Everyone's situation is different.

My wife's Ob/Gyn told us that he once drove into the office for roughy 5 miles on a flat because he needed to meet a patient who was spotting and really did not want to be late. He considered the cost of a wheel and tire to be unimportant.
 

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If your Jeep has the replacement steering gearbox installed by Dealership for some reason it could be low on coolant. Mine came back low, I ended up buying a gallon of coolant to top off. So now I've got 3 different coolants for my Jeeps on hand. Scary thing is one Dealership I stopped at to get coolant didn't have the correct one and "recommended " I just use prior version coolant. Not going to let them touch any vehicle of mine.
 

ShadowsPapa

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If your Jeep has the replacement steering gearbox installed by Dealership for some reason it could be low on coolant. Mine came back low, I ended up buying a gallon of coolant to top off. So now I've got 3 different coolants for my Jeeps on hand. Scary thing is one Dealership I stopped at to get coolant didn't have the correct one and "recommended " I just use prior version coolant. Not going to let them touch any vehicle of mine.
I'd love to know the reason since the steering gear is accessed from below and the time taken to replace it doesn't allow for messing around with coolant. I can't see any reason on mine why there would be any need to touch coolant in any form.

But what makes it worse in your case - OAT has been used by Jeeps since well before the Gladiator - for a Jeep shop to not have OAT coolant is odd in itself, but then to recommend mixing when the books and tech stuff says "do not mix" is beyond belief.
In 2.5 years and 26,000 miles, mine has taken exactly 8 ounces of coolant to bring it to the line in the tank. And that's with it being not quite up to that line by just a smidge from day one, so you could say it took 6 ounces to bring it back to factory fill and then 2 more to satisfy my OCD.
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