My Gladiator Power System Build

[Mercer]

I recently completed building a power system for my Jeep Gladiator, and I thought I'd share my experience.

Last year I purchased a Goal Zero Yeti 1400 and after my first camping trip, I realized that it wasn't nearly as capable as I had hoped, running out of power to run my Dometic fridge/freezer much faster than I had anticipated. After that experience, I bought a Boulder 100 solar panel, Yeti Link and 100 AH Yeti Tank. That increased my capacity, but battery recovery was dependant on sunny weather, and the Boulder 100 wasn't really cutting it. I decided to build a system that could fit inside of a waterproof truck box, with a quick disconnect to my Jeep's 220 amp alternator via the starter battery (AGM, 75 Ah, 70 CCA).

It took me a while to identify the right equipment, particularly a quick disconnect that would be waterproof and safely support up to 100 amps. I considered a large Anderson plug, but I wanted a waterproof plug receptacle I could mount to my truck box. Eventually, I discovered a 100 amp trolling motor plug from Battery Tender which ended up working perfectly. I ran a 4 AWG cable from a relay-based battery isolator in my engine compartment to my truck bed, using a magnetic cable clip to keep it "docked" when my battery system is removed.

With the truck box in place, I decided to base my key system components around Victron, due to their excellent Bluetooth powered apps -- getting the SmartSolar 100/50 charge controller and the BMV-712 battery monitor. At the center of my system is a Blue Sea Safety Hub 150, which supports circuits up to 200A and handily supplies a central negative bus. Originally I was looking at a DC to DC charger to put between my starter battery and house battery, but because the Gladiator’s alternator already works to charge its AGM starter battery, I decided to give it a try without one. So far, the results are good. After discharging my house battery to 75%, I was able to charge it at 400 watts, eventually leveling off to 60 watts. I may still look into a DC to DC charger eventually, but for now, this system seems to be working well. I'll be hooking up two 110-watt flexible solar panels next, and seeing how they perform.

One unusual aspect of my system is the Yeti 1400. Rather than get a new inverter, I connected the Yeti to the Safety Hub 150 fuse block via its Yeti Link charge controller (which supports charging at 60 amps).

Here's a schematic of my build -- would love to hear thoughts and feedback.

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[NateSamJT20]

I recently completed building a power system for my Jeep Gladiator, and I thought I'd share my experience.

Last year I purchased a Goal Zero Yeti 1400 and after my first camping trip, I realized that it wasn't nearly as capable as I had hoped, running out of power to run my Dometic fridge/freezer much faster than I had anticipated. After that experience, I bought a Boulder 100 solar panel, Yeti Link and 100 AH Yeti Tank. That increased my capacity, but battery recovery was dependant on sunny weather, and the Boulder 100 wasn't really cutting it. I decided to build a system that could fit inside of a waterproof truck box, with a quick disconnect to my Jeep's 220 amp alternator via the starter battery (AGM, 75 Ah, 70 CCA).

It took me a while to identify the right equipment, particularly a quick disconnect that would be waterproof and safely support up to 100 amps. I considered a large Anderson plug, but I wanted a waterproof plug receptacle I could mount to my truck box. Eventually, I discovered a 100 amp trolling motor plug from Battery Tender which ended up working perfectly. I ran a 4 AWG cable from a relay-based battery isolator in my engine compartment to my truck bed, using a magnetic cable clip to keep it "docked" when my battery system is removed.

With the truck box in place, I decided to base my key system components around Victron, due to their excellent Bluetooth powered apps -- getting the SmartSolar 100/50 charge controller and the BMV-712 battery monitor. At the center of my system is a Blue Sea Safety Hub 150, which supports circuits up to 200A and handily supplies a central negative bus. Originally I was looking at a DC to DC charger to put between my starter battery and house battery, but because the Gladiator’s alternator already works to charge its AGM starter battery, I decided to give it a try without one. So far, the results are good. After discharging my house battery to 75%, I was able to charge it at 400 watts, eventually leveling off to 60 watts. I may still look into a DC to DC charger eventually, but for now, this system seems to be working well. I'll be hooking up two 110-watt flexible solar panels next, and seeing how they perform.

One unusual aspect of my system is the Yeti 1400. Rather than get a new inverter, I connected the Yeti to the Safety Hub 150 fuse block via its Yeti Link charge controller (which supports charging at 60 amps).

Here's a schematic of my build -- would love to hear thoughts and feedback.

you would definitely survive longer than me in a zombie apocalypse! lol. looks like a great setup

 

[remlemasi]

Awesome schematic and great timing! I've been planning and scheming on my own for the past few weeks and completed the build this past weekend. See the schematic below:

Was looking real hard at the RedArc BCDC, but found the new Renogy DCC50S, which has DC-DC + MPPT built in, for much cheaper. Additionally, it can charge the starter battery from solar once the house battery is full enough. RedArc doesn't do that on it's own. This also eliminates the isolator solenoid in the battery compartment, so no need to find room for it. The DCC will handle isolation duties and also takes a signal from the ignition, so it handles our smart alternators just fine.

• DieHard Group 31 Marine Deep Cycle AGM (105Ah) for the house battery.
• Eaton Bussman MRBR terminal fuses to save on wiring.
• 2x BlueSea 150A busbars.
• Anderson-style connectors for all disconnects, except MC4 for solar.
• Will be using MC4 parallel splitters if I need more than one 100W panel.
• BlueSea 12-circuit fuse block for future expansion.

What I like about this setup is if the house battery goes dead, I can easily swap the house battery and starter battery connectors and the solar will charge the starter battery directly and the 12-circ fuse block will be fully powered, although I would probably disconnect the inverter so as to not-murder the starter battery.

I also love how clean it is with the DCC right at the center.

Ended up picking up a MinnKota battery case for the house battery as it was a nice size with nice features, handle, strap, and had a couple 12V outlets pre-installed.

@Mercer, I do have a question for you. I routed the positive cable and ignition signal from the engine bay, down and along the top of the frame rail, came up in between the bed and the cab and in to the bed through the plastic plug right at the corner next to the wheel arch. Did you do something similar? Where did you tie to chassis ground at the bed? Somewhere along the frame? Perhaps the threaded inserts used for the tie-down or up where the tonneau covers bolt in?

 

[camodog]

@remlemasi i would love to see pics of your set up when it’s all finished.

 

[johndeer]

That is a great idea. I want to make the same solar project in my car. By the way, I found a great article about solar https://websolarguide.com/solar-panels-for-garden/

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