Need help, 2023 Mojave 6m/t 37s service transmission and clutch overheating

[mojace]

I recently bought a 2023 Gladiator Mojave with the manual transmission. I put around 2800miles on it and everything was great. I decided to put 37s on and I also bought a Taser module to correct for the increased tire size. I drove with the 37s without using the Taser for around 200 miles with no issues. Plugged the Taser in corrected the tire size to 36.7" and drove it about 20miles before I got a "Service transmission" notification. I turned around and tried to get the Jeep back home but the power was being cut, shortly after I started getting the clutch overheating notification.

I took the 37s off and unmarried the module and took it to the dealership. The dealership told me that they cleared the fault and it drove fine no issues, later he told me that the clutch overheating alarm is caused by poor driving or abuse. They also said they could possibly deny any warranty claims due to this. Take it for what it is but I have always had manual vehicles and heavily modified manuals, so I am not an inexperienced driver. I did not abuse the vehicle in any way and when I got the alarm I was cruising around 50mph.

My question is should I try to put the 37s back on with the Taser and try again? Or am I in the wrong and the manual cant handle the 37s? I thought 37s on a Gladiator was a common thing?

Really disappointed in the situation and stuck on if I should cut my losses and sell the wheels and tires or try again?

I know it’s most likely not your driving, I owned 6 different manual transmissions both cars and trucks 1 jeep (76 CJ7) as well as driven tractors and grain trucks verious manual transmissions over at least 14+years, it’s only been recently I bought a ‘23 jeep Mojave. Mine acts the same way put when I use low range. My best research and communication with the dealership is that the computer doesn’t understand the different wheel speed vs engine RPMs and thinks the clutch is slipping.

this happened to me 2 twice having no idea at first about any of this I wasn’t looking for anything and the transmission went into limp mode. The first round the dealer replaced the clutch under warranty, the second time they said the clutch was fine but if i continue to abuse it they can’t warranty the clutch, and that it appears I took it to the dunes. I was on a dirt/graveled logging road a Honda civic could drive on.(besides the jeep is named after a desert with 600’ dunes and says desert rated on the badge)
I simply wanted to take my new jeep on some soft surfaces to try out all the functions. Understand this tripped within 24 hours of purchase and the selling dealer said “we can’t get it in for 30 days” a different dealer got it in almost immediately.

so both times I went into limp mode and the thing drives like 5mph up hills and about 45 down just a complete turd in limp mode.

I called jeep care and got a case number and took it back to the dealer a 3rd time this was to investigate. And learned some jeeps will trip the high temp clutch alarm in Low range. The paper they gave me was dated February 25 they claim to be working on a solution with no completion goal date..

I joined this group to see what types of solutions people have come up with. I don’t believe that the new recalled clutches are much better if at all. Watch the video from south bend clutches on the intermediate plate being hollow heating and warping eventually causing fire or explosion. This issue is easy to fix because there are at least 3 aftermarket options available, ACT, center force and SBC, maybe more: if I put an ACT in my Jeep I’d never need a clutch the rest of my owning it. I’m pretty confident in that. The trouble is that doesn’t fix the issues with the computer tripping out. I am very interested in any solutions people have found to fix or get around this without voiding warranty since my jeep has 7000 miles on it.

it’s unfortunate because I really like the truck, I don’t want to simply trade it for an automatic or a Tacoma whatever. I want a solution. And most of you know Jeep could fix this in a weekend if they wanted. I work in industrial maintenance and PLC programmers can change a machines computer issue very quickly. I understand there are differences but when the jeep can recognize gear ratios, that it’s in 4L and can be calibrated it’s pretty simple I don’t think anything needs to be added.

the actual fix is to get rid of the clutch for something like an ACT and delete the computer safety bandaid.

I haven’t done anything to my jeep, the previous owner strait piped it that’s the only modification made to my knowledge. I’ve spent hours online looking into this and working with Jeep and the dealer.

shout out to Larson Jeep in Puyallup Washington for being willing to work with me and getting my jeep in almost same day every time.

But the dealer isn’t able to fix it and they can’t authorize hacking things up to and still supporting warranty.

I apologize for being long winded, I’ve barely owned my jeep a month and as you all can imagine or even have experienced it’s not the best situation to be in. I want to find a solution and share it with everyone or I’m all ears to what you all have learned or found.

here’s a copy of the letter. I’d encourage you all to test 4 low if you haven’t for 5-10 minutes and see if you have the same result if your still under warranty report it so we can hopefully get a solution

I’m curious about the tazer and other stuff not sure how it works and would like more information if anyone uses this and what it means when the messages come
Back and if it successfully works to continue driving and avoid limp mode. I’m still hopeful for a real patch.

Sponsored

 

[Zachattack50]

I have a 6MT with 37's since the day I drove my JT off the lot - 26,000 miles and I just re-geared this past winter with 24k-ish miles and never an issue with overheating clutch or Service Transmission warning, including some wheeling, with the stock 4.10.

There -is- a procedure for the manual when you go with bigger tires, though. Not only do you have to program the tire size but also perform a re-learn procedure so that the transmission is expecting the input/output shafts to be turning the correct speeds for the gear you're in. This also has to be done with a re-gear. If you have not tried this, I'd give it a shot:

• Reboot PCM with JSCAN (there is a similar menu for Tazer, I just don't have one)
• Remove negative terminal from MAIN and AUX batteries for one minute
• Perform 2 sleep cycles
• Start vehicle
• Get up to speed between 40-80 MPH in 6th gear for 20 seconds
  • APP > 0.392
  • Flywheel Torque > 75Nm
  • (If you're doing 50-ish MPH or more, these should be met with no problem)
• Perform 2 sleep cycles
• Delete any CEL codes

Hope that helps!

An easier way to accomplish the relearn is to disconnect the two grounds on the passenger side near the battery. I did the speed up, slow down, bs once, absolute pita. Disconnect the two grounds for a minute, and reconnect, done. I'm running the Tazer mini, with 5.13's, and 37's with no issues. Also do yourself a favor and ditch that stock clutch, ACT, or center force and you will be much happier with feel and performance.

 

[7BJT]

I recently bought a 2023 Gladiator Mojave with the manual transmission. I put around 2800miles on it and everything was great. I decided to put 37s on and I also bought a Taser module to correct for the increased tire size. I drove with the 37s without using the Taser for around 200 miles with no issues. Plugged the Taser in corrected the tire size to 36.7" and drove it about 20miles before I got a "Service transmission" notification. I turned around and tried to get the Jeep back home but the power was being cut, shortly after I started getting the clutch overheating notification.

I took the 37s off and unmarried the module and took it to the dealership. The dealership told me that they cleared the fault and it drove fine no issues, later he told me that the clutch overheating alarm is caused by poor driving or abuse. They also said they could possibly deny any warranty claims due to this. Take it for what it is but I have always had manual vehicles and heavily modified manuals, so I am not an inexperienced driver. I did not abuse the vehicle in any way and when I got the alarm I was cruising around 50mph.

My question is should I try to put the 37s back on with the Taser and try again? Or am I in the wrong and the manual cant handle the 37s? I thought 37s on a Gladiator was a common thing?

Really disappointed in the situation and stuck on if I should cut my losses and sell the wheels and tires or try again?

I am here to save everyone some time, (from painful experience) the factory clutch, recall or not, is a poor, weak design. Pre-recall, you could run that weak clutch as "normal," and all would likely be just fine. After the recall, the "fix" that they added, was a slightly less cruddy clutch and a lazy software update that causes your rig to go into limp mode if it ever thinks you may be a liability to Chrysler. I call it lazy, because they seemingly solely designed the software "fix" around covering their own butt from the liability of the rare case of a clutch burning up.

The current solution: don't have the new software installed. If you already have done this, (like me,) have the pre-update software re-installed (after market) and THEN put in a beefy clutch, like and ACT or centerforce.

Theoretically, this solves the issue. We all just want to row gears in a Jeep truck.

Come on Chrysler... fix this crap.

Sponsored