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cj8scrambler

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I added power and a switch in the bed as well. Instead of adding them to the existing plastic plate, I designed a new plate from scratch. For now it's 3-D printed in ABS plastic. Eventually I'd like to mill this out of Aluminum.

The STL of the plate is available at: https://www.printables.com/model/305636-jeep-gladiator-bed-panel

I used 4mm rivet nuts in the existing square holes to attach it. I've got 12 gauge wire heading to an auxiliary fuse box in the engine bay. The switch controls LED bed lights with a disconnect for the lights in the RSI SmartCap. The bed light timeout was the big motivator for this project. Now I can light the bed as long as I want.

Some pics of the install:

Jeep Gladiator No bed power? No problem! $9.99 do it yourself. PXL_20221025_183406787
Jeep Gladiator No bed power? No problem! $9.99 do it yourself. PXL_20221028_144919986


Jeep Gladiator No bed power? No problem! $9.99 do it yourself. PXL_20221028_190522737 (1)


Jeep Gladiator No bed power? No problem! $9.99 do it yourself. PXL_20221030_002017567


Jeep Gladiator No bed power? No problem! $9.99 do it yourself. PXL_20221030_001936093
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ShadowsPapa

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Made my own bezel/mounting plate - power to the bed panel controlled via aux switch so I don't have 12v going back there all the time (just in case)

I sleep in the back using a truck tent. I wear hearing aids that charge via USB, I have lights that plug into 12v outlet. So this allows me to charge my phone, my hearing aids, and have lighting in the bed of the truck right next to me while I sleep.

I made my own panel because the one that comes with these spaces things apart more and I didn't want to cut as much out of the bed as that panel would have required. Putting these closer together in the panel I made allowed me to cut less, and it fits in that recess a lot better.

Jeep Gladiator No bed power? No problem! $9.99 do it yourself. 20220820_153408_HDR


Jeep Gladiator No bed power? No problem! $9.99 do it yourself. 20220819_151408


Jeep Gladiator No bed power? No problem! $9.99 do it yourself. 20220819_151526


A 12volt light plugged into the 12v outlet ->
Jeep Gladiator No bed power? No problem! $9.99 do it yourself. 1668746258684


I have the proper tools and terminals and made my own interconnect leads ->

Jeep Gladiator No bed power? No problem! $9.99 do it yourself. 20220820_142457


Power lead and ground go back from this area - powered by aux switch connection from this panel ->
Jeep Gladiator No bed power? No problem! $9.99 do it yourself. 20221109_160600_HDR

(3 is winch solenoid, 4 is my bumper mounted back up lights (Oracle) and 2 handles the 12v and USB charging in the bed. 1 is currently unused)
 
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545moose

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The AUX switch makes it easier to connect devices you want to control power to. These are fused circuits, so they just need appropriate wiring to device location. Depending on the capacity it can supply, an inverter can require large gauge cables. The AC wiring from the inverter can be done with much smaller gauge wire. The inverter should be as close to the battery as possible, but in a location where it doesn't get cooked (like the engine compartment). The wiring isn't difficult, but does require a little planning, depending on what the desired end result is.
Great info here. Still trying to transition my mind from my old setup in my last truck. Few questions though…

1. What are some alternatives to the aux switches; such as sPod, SwitchPro, etc. for lights and such?

2. Before I go to dual batteries, I picked up the EcoFlow. My intent is to run a fridge mostly 24/7; but need to run the 12v cigarette lighter plug to the cab from the bed so the unit charges while driving, but then will still power my fridge otherwise. Is there a grommet or pass-through to use from cab to bed? In my last rig I ran a Redarc SBI-12 to separate the primary (agm) and the house power (agm). The Genesis battery kit seems the easiest way here, but I’d rather ditch the stupid stop/start battery and keep a larger battery as primary, swap it to an AGM, then run a larger AGM in back in something like this: ALL-TOP Battery Box 12V Smart Portable Solar Generator Power Battery Box with Dual Anderson Plugs, USB and DC Ports For RV, Camper And Trailer Batteries, Black https://a.co/d/i0sB1SC

3. Regarding the inverter; I don’t think I need to factor that in just yet, but switching to the dual battery later, I’d place an inverter say in the cab or near the dual in the box nearby in a dry place in the bed. I’m trying to simplify this truck compared to my last but just trying to wrap my head around the options. I guess it’s possible to keep both circuits separate too and leave an AGM in front and remove the ESS, then run an AGM in a box and power all else and fridge from there, but since there would be to battery isolator and charging from the running truck ever, I could have a solar panel on the hood and charge the second “house” battery that way…. Hmmm 🤔
 

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Another type(s) of power port to think about is SAE plug port and Anderson connector. The latter is a lot more reliable than cigar lighter outlets. I cut off the lighter plug and replaced with Anderson 30 amp connector, I think I put SAE on another one. Kinda sucks to find fridge un-plugged after setting out in heat of day or night in summer.
 

545moose

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Another type(s) of power port to think about is SAE plug port and Anderson connector. The latter is a lot more reliable than cigar lighter outlets. I cut off the lighter plug and replaced with Anderson 30 amp connector, I think I put SAE on another one. Kinda sucks to find fridge un-plugged after setting out in heat of day or night in summer.
My fridge has a few different power plugs it came with; the cig lighter, a normal wall outlet type, etc. That one is ideal if it reaches my EcoFlow for the time being, I agree though, all the beating and banging off-road definitely would do a number on the cig lighter plug.
 

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all the beating and banging off-road definitely would do a number on the cig lighter plug.
IMO, those are more for stationary power, or power to something in the cab that's not critical - GPS, whatever.
The one on my JD lawn tractor has proven almost bullet-proof as I can plug in my sprayer and cover 3 acres, some of it really rough ground (and lawn tractors like the big ones have NO suspension) I've never had anything come loose, but it's still my 3rd choice for a fridge or cooler application. (maybe 4th)

I like twist-lock stuff where possible.
 

545moose

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or power to something in the cab that's not critical - GPS, whatever.
The one on my JD lawn tractor has proven almost bullet-proof as I can plug in my sprayer and cover 3 acres, some of it really rough ground (and lawn tractors like the big ones have NO suspension) I've never had anything come loose, but it's still my 3rd choice for a fridge or cooler application. (maybe 4th)
Haha, definitely a good use there. Is there a pass-through from cab to bed, or cap to use and with the use of some grommets, make a sealed path?
 

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My fridge has a few different power plugs it came with; the cig lighter, a normal wall outlet type, etc. That one is ideal if it reaches my EcoFlow for the time being, I agree though, all the beating and banging off-road definitely would do a number on the cig lighter plug.
The thing I really don't understand is converting 12v to 120 ac voltage to be converted back to 12-24 v DC by the item. Doing this conversion is quite a parasitic thing plus adding heat. I've seen it since the 90s with laptops, video cameras and some other devices. I found it frustrating that I had to convert 12v to 120 to charge and run my video camera in my MJ in early 90s. Not efficient plus more gear and stuff to fail. But I'm jaded I've lost a lot of video from traveling in Europe due to some of that.
My 2 fridge/freezers came with cigar lighter /12 plug and wall adapter too. I've had it come out just driving on HWY I-state roads.
 

545moose

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The thing I really don't understand is converting 12v to 120 ac voltage to be converted back to 12-24 v DC by the item. Doing this conversion is quite a parasitic thing plus adding heat. I've seen it since the 90s with laptops, video cameras and some other devices. I found it frustrating that I had to convert 12v to 120 to charge and run my video camera in my MJ in early 90s. Not efficient plus more gear and stuff to fail. But I'm jaded I've lost a lot of video from traveling in Europe due to some of that.
My 2 fridge/freezers came with cigar lighter /12 plug and wall adapter too. I've had it come out just driving on HWY I-state roads.
I'm not sure what the plug type is called, but it's used on solar panel connections; they're sockets M/F but also have a threaded collar component to secure it. Seems like the best there is, even some Anderson connectors are wonky and can get wiggly being such a hard snap-in design. Great sitting still, not so much hopping down a trail or adventure days on end...
 

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The thing I really don't understand is converting 12v to 120 ac voltage to be converted back to 12-24 v DC by the item. Doing this conversion is quite a parasitic thing plus adding heat. I've seen it since the 90s with laptops, video cameras and some other devices. I found it frustrating that I had to convert 12v to 120 to charge and run my video camera in my MJ in early 90s. Not efficient plus more gear and stuff to fail. But I'm jaded I've lost a lot of video from traveling in Europe due to some of that.
My 2 fridge/freezers came with cigar lighter /12 plug and wall adapter too. I've had it come out just driving on HWY I-state roads.
Sure you understand - dual or multiple power sources.
Some people only have 12v outlets in their vehicle, Some people have an inverter and a 110 in the back of their vehicle. You create and sell an item that either person can use - and more-so, that either person can use in multiple vehicles.
I've got a car that's 12v only - and sometimes I want to drive it somewhere pulling a small trailer, but want a fridge or cooler that can stay cool without having to buy so much ice. I plug it into the car's 12v source.
Then I take that same fridge or cooler with my truck - I can keep it in the cab and plug into the inverter or stow in the rear and power by 12v.
Converting 12v DC to some of the voltages needed by some equipment is less efficient - takes power to take 12v DC and turn it into 24 volts but it's real easy to step down 110volt AC to anything you need.
But not everyone has 110 volt power accessible in their car or truck.
TVs, and more, have had the ability to run on 12v DC or 110AC for decades.
When we had our first camper most of the time all we had was the 12v batteries of the camper, so stuff had to be able to run on that 12 volts - lights, fridge, whatever. If we were lucky and found a place with AC, we used that.
You will either convert in the item - convenient for the customer, or in the vehicle - leaving a lot of people out in the cold (or heat)

Did you ever use the radio in a 1950s car? Turn it on, listen for a hum, then the tubes warmed up and you got your music. The radios had a part - "vibrator" that allowed the DC to be transformed up to the voltages needed for tubes. Now THAT was inefficient.

Anyway, with the inverter, I have a huge choice of tools or equipment or lighting or whatever that I want to use. I'm not limited to 12v items only. If I want to take along cordless drill, saw (cordless chainsaw, maybe) or whatever, I can grab the charger and plug it into the truck and keep the batteries charged. I could build a deck out in the middle of nowhere. I could build a deer stand with power tools out in the woods - keeping the batteries charged, or even watching TV out there at the time.

(The UPS supplying my wife's quilting and embroidery equipment is a double-conversion unit and the efficiency is amazing - over 90%. Almost no real heat comes from it.
It takes 120 volt AC power, charges the 12v batteries within, the converts to pure sine wave extremely clean power good enough for sensitive network servers and other equipment. The room it operates in isn't noticeably warmer than any other part of the house.
Quality equipment these days is highly efficient.
 

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I added power and a switch in the bed as well...

snip

...Some pics of the install:





Jeep Gladiator No bed power? No problem! $9.99 do it yourself. 20221109_160600_HDR
I've never seen this bed label before, with the basic vehicle clearances, fluid capacities, et. al. Is this normal for the JT (and I don't have one because the factory spray in bedliner covers it)?

I like your install too, btw.
 

Geo Jeep

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I've never seen this bed label before, with the basic vehicle clearances, fluid capacities, et. al. Is this normal for the JT (and I don't have one because the factory spray in bedliner covers it)?

I like your install too, btw.
You can buy those online somewhere, they weren't standard.
 

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Some pics of the install:
PXL_20221030_002017567.jpg
I've never seen this bed label before, with the basic vehicle clearances, fluid capacities, et. al. Is this normal for the JT (and I don't have one because the factory spray in bedliner covers it)?

I like your install too, btw.
Used to be available here - https://haukoffroad.com/shop-by-vehicle/jl-wrangler/accessories/dash-plates/
but is no longer listed. @pixeldecals had a version also I believe.
i did find this on Etsy - https://www.etsy.com/listing/105873...MI4svntNjZ-wIVDKbICh2mfgzuEAQYASABEgI8cfD_BwE
 

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truckbedpower

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Made my own bezel/mounting plate - power to the bed panel controlled via aux switch so I don't have 12v going back there all the time (just in case)

I sleep in the back using a truck tent. I wear hearing aids that charge via USB, I have lights that plug into 12v outlet. So this allows me to charge my phone, my hearing aids, and have lighting in the bed of the truck right next to me while I sleep.

I made my own panel because the one that comes with these spaces things apart more and I didn't want to cut as much out of the bed as that panel would have required. Putting these closer together in the panel I made allowed me to cut less, and it fits in that recess a lot better.

Jeep Gladiator No bed power? No problem! $9.99 do it yourself. 20221109_160600_HDR

......
ShadowsPapa I did the same and made my own socket panel but I didn't want to drill or cut into the bed. My part comes out about 2.5 inches to allow space for the 12v sockets and wiring.
Jeep Gladiator No bed power? No problem! $9.99 do it yourself. thumbnail.JPG

I've got the part listed on thingiverse for free download https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5739408. If you don't have a 3D printer, hit me up and I can maybe work with whoever to print and ship.
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