No bed power? No problem! $9.99 do it yourself.

[Mr._Bill]

That's what I figured. I'll have to take a look underneath with your pics and see if I can figure it out. Have you wired it all up and its it working as expected? Thanks for the help.

I have the wiring run, but don't have it all connected. I still need to mount the Isolator up front. I don't have a good work area, and have been waiting for the heat to subside. It has been unusually hot this year.

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[Geo Jeep]

I have the wiring run, but don't have it all connected. I still need to mount the Isolator up front. I don't have a good work area, and have been waiting for the heat to subside. It has been unusually hot this year.

And that's saying something in NV! Seems the only trick for the isolator is where to route the one wire to something that's hot when the key its on. But that seems manageable. Other than that, its a matter of running cables between the solenoid and batteries, and a ground.

 

[Monk]

My Gladiator didn't come with bed power. After some internet searching, I couldn't find any aftermarket plug and play products, at all. And, hell no I'm not going to pay the Jeep price for an outlet. There's a big opportunity here for one of the forum's sponsors to deliver a solution - it will sell like mad. Contact me, I'll test it out for you. lol. So, I decided what the hell, I'll just make my own! The most difficult decision was deciding between a standard 120V outlet or cigarette lighter outlet. I have an Overland, so I could go either setup - tap into the on-board inverter or connect to the Aux Switch Bank. For me the cigarette outlet connected to the Aux Switch was the best choice. Best of all it only cost me $9.99 for a marine grade outlet on Amazon. Here's the link:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FVQ51CX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's a two pack, so you have a spare.

Ok... so it's not quite $9.99. You are going have to buy some wire, but you can find that on Amazon for under $8. Here's a link:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D74RGVM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

Choose the right gauge of wire for your application - amps and distance need to be considered. There are lots of online resources for 'choosing the correct wire size for a DC circuit'... that's a hint on what to google.

For this do it yourself, I used the bed plug as the base for mounting:

Step 1 - remove bed plug - if you have bed liner, trace the edge of the plug with a razor to break free - squeeze tabs and push out from behind
Step 2 - plug meet hole saw - 1 1/4 saw should be used - and how nice of Jeep to put a dimple smack in the middle of the plug to start the hole.
Step 3 - secure cigarette lighter outlet to the plug with nut and screws
Step 4 - run the wiring - how you do this and where you draw power is going to be up to you, but I'll be using the Aux Switch Bank so I can turn power on and off to the bed as needed. Consider an inline fuse - use what's appropriate for your application. Be sure to use the correct gauge of wire - consider draw, wire length, etc. - I won't list the possibilities here, because, well, opinions vary. Shrink boot and seal connections and secure wiring as needed. Consider using flexible auto conduit like this to protect your wiring:

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-86663...+flexible&qid=1585791181&s=automotive&sr=1-10


Here's some pics - you can do this!

Nice job!

 

[dsgood78]

So regarding these rear switch panels being added, I found that even though some say waterproof they really are not. My panel will be exposed to all of the elements especially water. Has anyone found or is using a waterproof cover over it? I want to use this panel specifically for my lights on my overland rack.

thanks

 

[BajaDrifter]

So regarding these rear switch panels being added, I found that even though some say waterproof they really are not. My panel will be exposed to all of the elements especially water. Has anyone found or is using a waterproof cover over it? I want to use this panel specifically for my lights on my overland rack.

thanks

Well for about 10 bucks a pop on these they are cheap enough to replace every few years if you want. Another option is to purchase some marine all weather switches, a little more money but they might address your worries.

https://www.apexlighting.com/accessories/switches/switch-panel-water-resistant/

 

[bgenlvtex]

I put a plug in the same place and a little more

 

[aaalex93]

Hi all - taking the plunge with adding bed power on my own but have run into a bit of a snag.

As has been mentioned earlier in the thread, wire gauge is key in ensuring a safe circuit. Due to this, I am going to be using 12 awg wire (along with a 10 amp fuse as this is what the plugs I'm using are rated for).

Reading through this thread, going from a thicker to a thinner gauge wire is not a good idea.
The pre-wired parallel spade connectors that shipped with the two plugs aren't the correct gauge (18 vs the 12 I want to use).

My issue is, when looking for new correct AWG spade connectors , I'm only able to find ones that accept one wire, not two like the one's provided:

Is it just me or is it very difficult to find a two wire female spade connector? Is there another way to accomplish this safely (such as a t connector)?

In the end, wiring needs to look like this:

Thanks in advance for the help/advice!

 

[Mr._Bill]

Hi all - taking the plunge with adding bed power on my own but have run into a bit of a snag.

As has been mentioned earlier in the thread, wire gauge is key in ensuring a safe circuit. Due to this, I am going to be using 12 awg wire (along with a 10 amp fuse as this is what the plugs I'm using are rated for).

Reading through this thread, going from a thicker to a thinner gauge wire is not a good idea.
The pre-wired parallel spade connectors that shipped with the two plugs aren't the correct gauge (18 vs the 12 I want to use).

My issue is, when looking for new correct AWG spade connectors , I'm only able to find ones that accept one wire, not two like the one's provided:

Is it just me or is it very difficult to find a two wire female spade connector? Is there another way to accomplish this safely (such as a t connector)?

In the end, wiring needs to look like this:

Thanks in advance for the help/advice!

Going to a smaller wire, from a larger feed, is not a problem, as long as it is large enough to support the load that will be placed upon it, and is properly fused. If the wiring in question was included by the manufacturer with the product, then it is reasonably safe to assume it is large enough for the intended use.

 

[Gatorized]

My issue is, when looking for new correct AWG spade connectors , I'm only able to find ones that accept one wire, not two like the one's provided:

is it very difficult to find a two wire female spade connector? Is there another way to accomplish this safely (such as a t connector)?

In the end, wiring needs to look like this:

Looks like a normal connector to me but with wires inserted side by side instead of just one wire...

 

[aaalex93]

Going to a smaller wire, from a larger feed, is not a problem, as long as it is large enough to support the load that will be placed upon it, and is properly fused. If the wiring in question was included by the manufacturer with the product, then it is reasonably safe to assume it is large enough for the intended use.

Thanks a lot, that is very good to know! The wiring does have an inline 10 amp fuse of its own so sounds like I should be ok.

Looks like a normal connector to me but with wires inserted side by side instead of just one wire...

One is definitely thicker than the other and seems designed for a wire in and out. Easier to see when they are right next to each other:

 

[Blade1668]

Hi all - taking the plunge with adding bed power on my own but have run into a bit of a snag.

As has been mentioned earlier in the thread, wire gauge is key in ensuring a safe circuit. Due to this, I am going to be using 12 awg wire (along with a 10 amp fuse as this is what the plugs I'm using are rated for).

Reading through this thread, going from a thicker to a thinner gauge wire is not a good idea.
The pre-wired parallel spade connectors that shipped with the two plugs aren't the correct gauge (18 vs the 12 I want to use).

When I wire up multiple 12v outlets I don't always use what came with them and just make a split Y using each leg individual to the outlet instead of running a jumper to second outlet. Sometimes fusing each separately. When I finally get around to installing a "house" battery I'll probably even fuse the wiring on both ends due to multiple direction of power feed from battery, solar panel and engine. Then feeding to outlets. But I will have it drawn up on graph paper for records. I learned that from forgetting where and how many fuses I had in a 12v set up I did in past then pulled out and re wired it to find a burned out fuse that was tucked out of sight half a day wasted and materials over a damn fuse. Everything was soldered connections and heat shrink tubing or "liquid" electric tape.

 

[Rollcast]

Thanks a lot, that is very good to know! The wiring does have an inline 10 amp fuse of its own so sounds like I should be ok.



One is definitely thicker than the other and seems designed for a wire in and out. Easier to see when they are right next to each other:

I'm not sure what those are called specifically or even if it is something other than a standard spade connector. If you search for "piggyback spade connectors" you will find some options to help accomplish the same thing. They won't look like that, but they should allow you to jump from one connection to the next.

Note: I'm not an electrician. Assume I'm talking completely out of my butt.

 

[Tuggernuts]

My Gladiator didn't come with bed power. After some internet searching, I couldn't find any aftermarket plug and play products, at all. And, hell no I'm not going to pay the Jeep price for an outlet. There's a big opportunity here for one of the forum's sponsors to deliver a solution - it will sell like mad. Contact me, I'll test it out for you. lol. So, I decided what the hell, I'll just make my own! The most difficult decision was deciding between a standard 120V outlet or cigarette lighter outlet. I have an Overland, so I could go either setup - tap into the on-board inverter or connect to the Aux Switch Bank. For me the cigarette outlet connected to the Aux Switch was the best choice. Best of all it only cost me $9.99 for a marine grade outlet on Amazon. Here's the link:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FVQ51CX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's a two pack, so you have a spare.

Ok... so it's not quite $9.99. You are going have to buy some wire, but you can find that on Amazon for under $8. Here's a link:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D74RGVM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

Choose the right gauge of wire for your application - amps and distance need to be considered. There are lots of online resources for 'choosing the correct wire size for a DC circuit'... that's a hint on what to google.

For this do it yourself, I used the bed plug as the base for mounting:

Step 1 - remove bed plug - if you have bed liner, trace the edge of the plug with a razor to break free - squeeze tabs and push out from behind
Step 2 - plug meet hole saw - 1 1/4 saw should be used - and how nice of Jeep to put a dimple smack in the middle of the plug to start the hole.
Step 3 - secure cigarette lighter outlet to the plug with nut and screws
Step 4 - run the wiring - how you do this and where you draw power is going to be up to you, but I'll be using the Aux Switch Bank so I can turn power on and off to the bed as needed. Consider an inline fuse - use what's appropriate for your application. Be sure to use the correct gauge of wire - consider draw, wire length, etc. - I won't list the possibilities here, because, well, opinions vary. Shrink boot and seal connections and secure wiring as needed. Consider using flexible auto conduit like this to protect your wiring:

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-86663...+flexible&qid=1585791181&s=automotive&sr=1-10


Here's some pics - you can do this!

This forum is so awesome. I will be doing this mod when I get my Mojave. Thanks so much.

 

[Geo Jeep]

I have the wiring run, but don't have it all connected. I still need to mount the Isolator up front. I don't have a good work area, and have been waiting for the heat to subside. It has been unusually hot this year.

Did you get your system wired up? Just curious how it worked out and if the isolator was easy to install.

 

[Mr._Bill]

Did you get your system wired up? Just curious how it worked out and if the isolator was easy to install.

I'm still working on it. The wiring is easy enough, it's coming up with mounting plates to fit everything in like I want it that is taking a little more time. Work has also been keeping me busy, drove 1500 miles this week.

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