Mr._Bill

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It seems to me that any of the AUX switches could be used to power a relay on and off that connected directly to the battery and passed as much power as you wanted (appropriate to wire gauge and fusing of course). Is there any reason that this would not work?

Also, if you install an AC outlet to the bed, wouldn't you need to install a GFI for protection?
Without a physical ground point, I'm not sure how well a GFCI would function with an inverter. I would refer that question back to the inverter manufacturer, based on the intended use.



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SwampNut

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On boats, it's just referenced back to boat ground. Since most boats aren't metal, there are ground busses all over the place, all bonded to each other and to through hulls, so it also protects wet people. In the case of a car/truck, it would reference to the metal ground that encompasses the entire vehicle. It would detect a human contacting 120v hot and a metal surface at the same time.

I have a certification to teach boating electrical with the US Power Squadrons.
 

RubiCrusHehr

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I just installed that today and plan to power it from the power lead in the 7 pin RV plug, just like I also did for my extra backup lights. One switch will be main control and the second one will control bed lights, third one power to fridge
 

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Please please please... IF anyone is doing this, make sure you are fusing your circuits properly and placing them at the battery. Live wire running across and around metal edges while not fused before that length, is a disaster waiting to happen. Always fuse at the battery when laying out a homemade circuit.

Otherwise use the pre-fused aux switches or something along the lines of an S-POD. I am cringing from the first post where it looks like the OP ran 6 gauge wire from the battery all the way to the rear of the truck before adding the fuse. If for whatever reason that wire is in contact with metal that over time rubs and abrades its way through the insulation...Instant disaster.
 

SwampNut

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I think part of the problem is that many accessories come with a fuse inline, suggesting that it's safe to put the fuse there. No, they do that so that if the accessory itself catches fire, that fuse blows, so you can't sue them. It doesn't account for your wires, added to that, catching fire.

Those using the trailer connector are fused, BUT....you need to fuse for the wire size. To add to what Jesse said, you may need multiple fuses. Let's say you're running a 40a circuit, which I think the trailer is (might be 30a), and want to split it. You might run #8 wire for the long run, and that needs a 40a fuse at the battery. Then you split off into four #14 wires for 10a circuits, well EACH ONE needs its own 10a fuse! You must always fuse for the wire size.

Source: I have a certification to teach marine electrical wiring, which is a slightly higher standard than automotive, but not much.
 

abugarcias

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This thread is timely.

I'm wiring a 12v outlet in the bed for a refrigerator. The fridge is a Massimo CX40 from Costco. It is rated at 45W and 3.75A.

I ended up ordering the ARB wiring kit (https://www.amazon.com/ARB-10900027...arb+refrigerator+wiring&qid=1589135867&sr=8-3) because I may upgrade to an ARB in the future, and it has 20ft of 10 gauge wire which is double insulated since it will be terminating under the hood where it gets hot. It also has a 15A built in fuse which is nice. Pricing the parts individually with good quality wire would run more than that kit sells for.

I'm still not sure if I'm going to wire it directly to the battery or to switch 1 or 2. I am concerned with wiring to the aux switches because from what I have read they are 12 gauge wire and the ARB kit is 10 gauge. I don't think it will matter with such a low amperage rating for the fridge but would love to hear your thoughts on whether that is safe or not. It would be nice to have the outlet switched.

I suppose I could do a relay with aux 3 or 4 powering it but not sure if that is a little to complicated for what I want to do.
 

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The heavier wire is needed for the long run. The factory wires can be smaller because they are short. There are voltage losses in the wire, so you have to scale up the size for distance. Think of how it's harder to blow through a very long hose compared to a short one.

Trust the factory ratings.
 

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This has been educational and I'm glad now I did not waste money on those aux switches from mopar.
 

bheath-atx

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Where did you get this panel? What does the third switch control if there are only two outlets? are you running that inline from the battery to an Anderson connector or something similar or just using it as another switch for an existing or new AUX switch?
 

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Where did you get this panel? What does the third switch control if there are only two outlets? are you running that inline from the battery to an Anderson connector or something similar or just using it as another switch for an existing or new AUX switch?
Got it from Amazon,first switch will be the master, second one for outlets and third one to control inside rack lights. I'll get power from back trailer plug, like I did for backup lights.
 
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I am not an electrician. Okay i clarrified that. But i do believe in making things as simple as possible. If you want install dc in the bed and run an ac power inverter off that why not just figure out the gauge of wire you need and run it directly off the battery. Figure what size fuse you need and run it close to the battery. Why do you need to run it off the aux switch? Is it for posterity? Is it for function? For the sake of time and safety make it one complete circuit. It's not like you'll be using it with the truck turned off. Are you afraid someone will steal power out of your truck bed? Now all I'm running off my cigarette lighter is a little black and decker air compressor. All i need is 14 ga wire with a 10 amp fuse. I would reassess that though if i was running a power inverter with a heavy duty air compressor. Find a local electrician and pay him $20 to pick his brain. Ask him the easiest wsy to do it and what size wire and fuse you need.
 

Mr._Bill

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I am not an electrician. Okay i clarrified that. But i do believe in making things as simple as possible. If you want install dc in the bed and run an ac power inverter off that why not just figure out the gauge of wire you need and run it directly off the battery. Figure what size fuse you need and run it close to the battery. Why do you need to run it off the aux switch? Is it for posterity? Is it for function? For the sake of time and safety make it one complete circuit. It's not like you'll be using it with the truck turned off. Are you afraid someone will steal power out of your truck bed? Now all I'm running off my cigarette lighter is a little black and decker air compressor. All i need is 14 ga wire with a 10 amp fuse. I would reassess that though if i was running a power inverter with a heavy duty air compressor. Find a local electrician and pay him $20 to pick his brain. Ask him the easiest wsy to do it and what size wire and fuse you need.
The AUX switch makes it easier to connect devices you want to control power to. These are fused circuits, so they just need appropriate wiring to device location. Depending on the capacity it can supply, an inverter can require large gauge cables. The AC wiring from the inverter can be done with much smaller gauge wire. The inverter should be as close to the battery as possible, but in a location where it doesn't get cooked (like the engine compartment). The wiring isn't difficult, but does require a little planning, depending on what the desired end result is.
 

                           
























































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