BajaDrifter

Well-Known Member
First Name
Leo
Joined
Dec 15, 2019
Messages
121
Reaction score
83
Location
Southern California
Vehicle(s)
2020 Gladiator Rubicon
That's the most conventional plan for sure. The main point of this project was to power my compressor at the rear of the vehicle. This allows me to store & use my compressor and hose octopus right from the bed. I did run the engine during my test ... as that's how I will do it at trail heads as well. I also already found the wire at a reasonable cost, ran it, and connected it.

I connected to Aux 1 (40amp) so that I could control when the bed was receiving power. I'm pushing the limit of that 40amp fuse, but I'd be annoyed having to wire my own switch when I already paid for the aux switches. The compressor seemed to draw between 30-40amps. I blew an in-line 30amp fuse on my first trial before replacing it with a 40amp fuse. It was on the 2nd trial that the fuses held up ... but the 4inches of thin 18AWG wire between my 6AWG wire and the cig outlet decided to become kindling.

I could re-think the whole set-up, but I'm not yet willing to accept that. I'm hoping that the cig outlets can handle up to 40amps. (All of the conductive connections in the component seem to have cross-sections greater than or equal to a 10AWG wire.)
I see your point and hope it works for you. I just question running that switch right at it's limits. They have relays that could go too. Hopefully a fuse burns out first. I'm not enough of an electrician to know if a 40amp compressor can heat up and go beyond it's rating? Think I would find that out when living on the edge of rated amperage. Only trying to help cause if this works I might do the same. I have 10ga going to my little panel in the bed, but would have to rewire the panel like you.



Advertisement



 
OP
robinja

robinja

Well-Known Member
First Name
James
Joined
Jan 14, 2020
Messages
71
Reaction score
81
Location
Florida
Vehicle(s)
Jeep Gladiator Overland, Jeep TJ, Jeep Grand Cherokee
Occupation
Project Manager
Vehicle Showcase
1
  • Thread starter
  • Thread Starter
  • #17
Did you run the wire inside the cab or external to the battery?
Cigarette outlets are intended for 12 volts, 15 amps, 180 watts. Anything beyond those figures, something is going to go wrong. Wire gauge on cigarette outlets is most often 14, 16, or 18 - length of run dictates gauge. If you are using the 40 amp aux switch wire, you would be looking at a limit of 12 volts, 40 amps, 480 watts and a different type of connector/straight into equipment. Hope that helps.
 

SKETCHY JEEP

Well-Known Member
First Name
Adrian
Joined
Sep 17, 2019
Messages
48
Reaction score
77
Location
Virginia
Vehicle(s)
2020 Gladiator Sport S
Cigarette outlets are intended for 12 volts, 15 amps, 180 watts. Anything beyond those figures, something is going to go wrong. Wire gauge on cigarette outlets is most often 14, 16, or 18 - length of run dictates gauge. If you are using the 40 amp aux switch wire, you would be looking at a limit of 12 volts, 40 amps, 480 watts and a different type of connector/straight into equipment. Hope that helps.
I get all of that. Im asking if you routed the power wire external of the vehicle (under it) to the battery or from the bed to the cab to the battery through the fire wall or something else?
 

msujedi

Well-Known Member
First Name
Jed
Joined
Dec 14, 2018
Messages
233
Reaction score
258
Location
Michigan
Vehicle(s)
2020 JT Sport S, 2018 JLU Sport S, 2014 Durango, 2004 Pivot Mach 4
Vehicle Showcase
1
Cigarette outlets are intended for 12 volts, 15 amps, 180 watts. Anything beyond those figures, something is going to go wrong. Wire gauge on cigarette outlets is most often 14, 16, or 18 - length of run dictates gauge. If you are using the 40 amp aux switch wire, you would be looking at a limit of 12 volts, 40 amps, 480 watts and a different type of connector/straight into equipment. Hope that helps.
Yes, that did help me. I was overusing the concept that a smaller wire requires a shorter run for a given amp draw. It has limits. Even though a cigarette lighter plug is a 'short run', that doesn't mean it is safe for a high amp draw. Scrapping 'plan A' ...

Plan B:
I have some extra Anderson-type connectors rated for 50amps. Based on @BajaDrifter 's suggestion, I'm mounting one of those separate from the panel of USB & cigarette plugs. I'm still going to upgrade the wires to those plugs with 10AWG and inline fuses.

I should have it done later this week. If it works without blowing my 40 amp Aux 1 fuse, I'll post pictures.

Plan C:
If I blow that fuse, I'll replace the fuse, and connect my 6AWG wire to the solenoid I'm using for my winch. I can't imagine a scenario where I'd use the rear power outlet & the winch at the same time. So, lil' old Aux 3 will control my solenoid which will provide battery power on heavy duty wires to my winch as well my air compressor in the rear.
 
OP
robinja

robinja

Well-Known Member
First Name
James
Joined
Jan 14, 2020
Messages
71
Reaction score
81
Location
Florida
Vehicle(s)
Jeep Gladiator Overland, Jeep TJ, Jeep Grand Cherokee
Occupation
Project Manager
Vehicle Showcase
1
  • Thread starter
  • Thread Starter
  • #20
Cigarette outlets are intended for 12 volts, 15 amps, 180 watts. Anything beyond those figures, something is going to go wrong. Wire gauge on cigarette outlets is most often 14, 16, or 18 - length of run dictates gauge. If you are using the 40 amp aux switch wire, you would be looking at a limit of 12 volts, 40 amps, 480 watts and a different type of connector/straight into equipment. Hope that helps.
I followed the frame of the vehicle directly to the engine compartment and Aux 3 connection point with my wires inside flexible conduit. Conduit ziptied using existing connection points and following existing wiring. This will offer you the most protection in the case of a meltdown/overload situation. My Aux 3 was 15 amp - this seems to differ for some people (JK, JL, JT) for some weird Jeep reason. I only plan on running low draw equipment in the bed: speakers, USB charging, lights, small cigarette lighter compatible compressor, etc.


Pics:
IMG_6820.jpg
IMG_6821.jpg


Hope this info helps.
 

msujedi

Well-Known Member
First Name
Jed
Joined
Dec 14, 2018
Messages
233
Reaction score
258
Location
Michigan
Vehicle(s)
2020 JT Sport S, 2018 JLU Sport S, 2014 Durango, 2004 Pivot Mach 4
Vehicle Showcase
1
I followed the frame of the vehicle directly to the engine compartment and Aux 3 connection point with my wires inside flexible conduit. Conduit ziptied using existing connection points and following existing wiring.
I modeled my wire run after @robinja and I'm very happy with the outcome. Pretty easy routing too.

fyi ... 1/2" diameter x 14ft (I bought a pair of 7ft conduits) spans the run of wire from engine to bed nicely.
 
Last edited:

BajaDrifter

Well-Known Member
First Name
Leo
Joined
Dec 15, 2019
Messages
121
Reaction score
83
Location
Southern California
Vehicle(s)
2020 Gladiator Rubicon
I get all of that. Im asking if you routed the power wire external of the vehicle (under it) to the battery or from the bed to the cab to the battery through the fire wall or something else?
Myself, I ran wire from the Aux switch feeds that are located next to the battery under the hood. Then ran my power and ground to back panel along side the frame.
 

robey13

Member
First Name
Chad
Joined
Aug 14, 2019
Messages
16
Reaction score
15
Location
Oakland, MI
Vehicle(s)
2018 JK 2 door, 1997 Land Rover Defender 90, 2020 Gladiator GCLE
Does anyone have the part number to the Mopar OEM truck bed 115-volt ac outlet by chance?
 

BajaDrifter

Well-Known Member
First Name
Leo
Joined
Dec 15, 2019
Messages
121
Reaction score
83
Location
Southern California
Vehicle(s)
2020 Gladiator Rubicon
It's in the forum somewhere on another thread. People were trying to setup the factory option, had the parts, but couldn't program the computer to accept it.
 

SwampNut

Well-Known Member
First Name
Carlos
Joined
Apr 20, 2020
Messages
522
Reaction score
432
Location
Peoria AZ
Vehicle(s)
2020 Gladiator Launch Edition
Occupation
Geek
Now, has anyone added a panel like this to the bed in a different location? I have the 120v outlet, but would like to also add a couple of 12v and 5v.
 

Blade1668

Well-Known Member
First Name
Darrell
Joined
Jan 7, 2020
Messages
342
Reaction score
185
Location
N. AL.
Vehicle(s)
90XJ, 91XJ, 91MJ, 05 LJ, 20 JT
Occupation
Army now a Civ. working for Army
Vehicle Showcase
1
Well I finally got around to installing 2 more 12v outlets in the bed, I'm planning on adding a second one in cab and double USB outlet on back of console off of Aux switch #2 (40amp). If anyone is wondering the factory spray in bed liner is not hard to remove. Just score the edge of plastic cover all the way around it. Then just pull it off of the plastic cover. Then unlatch the cover and slip it out, trim up the spray in liner for it to pop back in after installing outlet(s). I off set them so it still has a few latches to lock it in. Another thing I noticed is Jeep has really stepped up it's game on the quality of wire and wiring. :like: I ran the wire down passenger side along frame rail and over fuel tank.
Carlos depending on where you want them to come out at it should not be a big problem to do that, just decide where want it. Make sure you have clearance on back side if flush mounted drill hole (undersize) first file out for snug fit install (a lot of 12v outlets have a flat edge or 2 to keep it from twisting) touch up bare metal.

IMG_20200423_195834.jpg
 

SwampNut

Well-Known Member
First Name
Carlos
Joined
Apr 20, 2020
Messages
522
Reaction score
432
Location
Peoria AZ
Vehicle(s)
2020 Gladiator Launch Edition
Occupation
Geek
Yeah, I saw that there's lots of room between the inside skin in the rear and the outside, almost four inches. Last night I drilled into the bumper to install air connectors, and looked around up there. It will be super easy.
 

msujedi

Well-Known Member
First Name
Jed
Joined
Dec 14, 2018
Messages
233
Reaction score
258
Location
Michigan
Vehicle(s)
2020 JT Sport S, 2018 JLU Sport S, 2014 Durango, 2004 Pivot Mach 4
Vehicle Showcase
1
I now have my main front to back wire terminating at an Anderson style connector for my air compressor. I tied into that line for a pair of 12v cigarette outlets with a 30amp inline fuse as well as a double USB outlet with a 5amp inline fuse. This is all currently connected to my Aux 1 wire in the engine compartment (with its 40amp fuse).

Wired & ready to test before mounting.
Bed power wired.jpg


With aux 1 pressed.
Bed power volts.jpg


Voltage drop while running my compressor (kept engine running throughout test). I think the voltage drop is mainly caused by the lower gauge factory wire used for aux 1. The wire for aux 1 seemed much smaller than the 10AWG I used for my connections in the rear.
Bed power volt drop.jpg

I only aired down 10psi, then back up ... and didn't time it. If I'm not happy with the performance, I might switch my engine bay wiring to get max power to my compressor. I'd put a ring terminal on the heavy gauge wire I ran to the engine bay to connect it to the solenoid along with my winch. If so, the winch & bed power will both be run from the battery via aux 3. I can't foresee an instance where I'd use both the winch and the bed outlet at the same time, so I imagine that would be an acceptable wiring option.


Supplied screws wouldn't 'self tap' despite pre-drilling holes almost as large as the outer edges of the threads. I used some 1/2" self tapping stainless screws for now. I may end up painting the heads of them.
Bed outlet mounted.jpg
 
First Name
Ryan
Joined
Apr 4, 2020
Messages
9
Reaction score
11
Location
Albuquerque, NM
Vehicle(s)
2020 JT Sport S with max tow package
Your gonna use about 15 ft of wire. From what I've been researching which wire gauge to use should be considered off of voltage drop. The bigger the drop the smaller the wire size needed. I used 14 ga and hard wired it into the battery. I used an inline mini fuse holder. I wish i would have used heavier gauge but if i feel i need to it's an easy fix. My test run worked fine running the little black and decker air compressor i have. No fires but the male dc connector was pretty hot which i think is normal.
20200427_152250.jpg
20200427_151634.jpg
20200427_151618.jpg
20200427_151741.jpg
 

Factoid

Well-Known Member
First Name
Mark
Joined
Dec 2, 2019
Messages
743
Reaction score
1,068
Location
San Antonio, TX/Mahopac, NY (Atlanta temporarily)
Vehicle(s)
2020 Gladiator, 2019 Porsche Cayenne S, 1964 Corvette coupe
Occupation
Performance Coach
That's the most conventional plan for sure. The main point of this project was to power my compressor at the rear of the vehicle. This allows me to store & use my compressor and hose octopus right from the bed. I did run the engine during my test ... as that's how I will do it at trail heads as well. I also already found the wire at a reasonable cost, ran it, and connected it.

I connected to Aux 1 (40amp) so that I could control when the bed was receiving power. I'm pushing the limit of that 40amp fuse, but I'd be annoyed having to wire my own switch when I already paid for the aux switches. The compressor seemed to draw between 30-40amps. I blew an in-line 30amp fuse on my first trial before replacing it with a 40amp fuse. It was on the 2nd trial that the fuses held up ... but the 4inches of thin 18AWG wire between my 6AWG wire and the cig outlet decided to become kindling.

I could re-think the whole set-up, but I'm not yet willing to accept that. I'm hoping that the cig outlets can handle up to 40amps. (All of the conductive connections in the component seem to have cross-sections greater than or equal to a 10AWG wire.)
Dude, please put the tools down and back away! At first I thought you were joking, actually hoping. Maybe you are, but if you are not...

B8C7E97A-5392-4789-A453-41653C467599.jpeg
 











Top