msujedi

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Dude, please put the tools down and back away! At first I thought you were joking, actually hoping. Maybe you are, but if you are not...

B8C7E97A-5392-4789-A453-41653C467599.jpeg
LOL. Not joking. Thanks for the concern. Please tell me that pic was photo shopped!

It is true that I know just enough about 12v dc circuitry to be dangerous.

What I don't know, I'm asking and researching. Any 'weak spot' in the circuit, I've tested while exposed. I posted the result here so that other's don't make any poor assumptions.

There is now no fire-risk in my circuit since the only high amp draw runs through an Anderson connector rated much higher. I've over-sized my wires and under-sized in-line fuses.

The only thing I may change is disconnecting my wire in the engine bay from the aux 1 line and connecting my wire to the solenoid I installed for my winch. I should see less voltage drop that way.



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Factoid

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Ok, I was cringing reading your earlier posts. Vehicles used to have something called a fusible link instead of a fuse which was basically a wire two gauges lighter (higher number) than required for the circuit and placed in the harness in a location that if it melted would not cause a fire. Oh, that picture is a photoshop.

When working with electricity, your circuit is only as strong as its weakest link and you always want that weakest link to be a fuse or circuit breaker. You also want to place that fuse or circuit breaker as close to the source of power as possible in order to protect as much of the wiring as possible. You never use a load (amperage or wattage) greater than your wiring or fuse can support. This goes for both the supply (12v) and the ground. Any amperage draw under the limit is fine, so you can easily use a 10 amp device plugged into your bed outlet rated for 40 amps, but you could not safely use a 60 amp device. Electric motors are variable load devices and are rated based on maximum draw. They draw more current at start up and when under load than they do when running a light load. This can cause a false sense of security as you might run your compressor with no issue and then one time in the future give it heavy use and have the wiring burn up. Finally, AUX 1 and 2 can support up to 40 amps of load while 3 and 4 can support up to 15 amps. Your solenoid uses less than 5 amps, so it could be controlled by any of the switches.

Given all of this and assuming you want to use your solenoid as a high power switch controlled by a low power switch (AUX switch) to control both the winch and the air compressor and assuming the length from the solenoid to the bed is 15 feet, you will need to use 4ga wire with a very short run from the large output lug on the solenoid to a 60a maxi-fuse to a bed outlet rated for at least 60a and a 4ga ground wire to a clean, solid frame ground under the bed. I would also use AUX 3 or 4 to control the solenoid and save the two 40a AUX switches for lights or other higher amp applications.

Best of luck and don’t burst into flames!
 

SwampNut

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Two of the aux switches are rated 40a, and two are rated 10a. Is there any reason to believe they are over-rated? I wired a Viair 450c directly to the 40a, using the wire supplied by Viair which seems to be either 10 or 12 guage (not marked, WTF). Personally, I would have used something heavier, but I sometimes (always) over-engineer electrical circuits, and have to assume that if they gave me wire, they expected me to use it.

I'm going to go find the fuse for the 40a circuit and change it to 30a though, because that's what came with the pump.
 

Factoid

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Two of the aux switches are rated 40a, and two are rated 10a. Is there any reason to believe they are over-rated? I wired a Viair 450c directly to the 40a, using the wire supplied by Viair which seems to be either 10 or 12 guage (not marked, WTF). Personally, I would have used something heavier, but I sometimes (always) over-engineer electrical circuits, and have to assume that if they gave me wire, they expected me to use it.

I'm going to go find the fuse for the 40a circuit and change it to 30a though, because that's what came with the pump.
Changing the fuse is a great idea! That will ensure the weakest link is the fuse. That wiring size is perfect, you should be fine.

Here are the amperage rating for the six circuits provided with the AUX switches:

6534D8B9-73D1-40BE-9C3D-52550C283D44.jpeg
 

SwampNut

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I've worked with electricity all my life, I tend to aggressively over-engineer. I'm so tired of the smell of burning plastic/phenol/silicon. I was a TV repair guy in the tube days.

I guess I mixed up the 10a and 15a lines, good to know there's even more switched power there. I put lights on one of the small ones and the compressor on the 40a. My plan is probably to add 12v bed power on the other 15a, for small stuff.
 

Konjidd

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Please Help.......... I purchased all the parts that I think I will need to add the bed outlet and the dealer says they can't install it because they don't put inverters. They tell me this after opening the package and installing the outlet so now I can't return the parts.

two audio stores don't want to do it either.....................long story short.................. Does part number Jumper Wiring - Mopar (68398209AB) replace the Old harness? do I need an inverter? I'm confused and could use some advice because I'd prefer not to burn my car to the ground....LOL

Thanks in advance for you help.


2020 Jeep Gladiator bed outlet

Inverter Power Outlet - Mopar (68375111AA)

https://www.mymoparparts.com/oem-pa...let-68375111aa?c=bD0xMSZuPVNlYXJjaCBSZXN1bHRz
1588711485732.png


Jumper Wiring - Mopar (68398209AB)
2020 Jeep Gladiator



https://www.mymoparparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-jumper-wiring-68398209ab
1588711510935.png

1588711375783.png
 

BajaDrifter

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I imagine you could just buy your own inverter at whatever watts you would like, install it and direct wire to battery. Then at least use the outlet you purchased.
 

Konjidd

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where would you put the inverter and where would you splice into the wiring harnes? or would you just run new wires?
 

SwampNut

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If you don't already understand how wiring works, you do NOT want to be putting an inverter into a vehicle!! This is just not the sort of thing you can learn to do without some prior understanding of electrical systems.
 

Konjidd

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Agreed! I don't know how to correctly connect to the current harness. I do see how the new harness fits and it appears that it would complete a connection with the bed outlet but I don't know where jeep puts the inverter and if I was to purchase my own inverter I'm not sure how to attach to current harness. I will probably just rewire and stay away from the factory wiring ......
 

SwampNut

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Hopefully someone who has done it has specific steps. Mine came pre-wired. I just don't want you burning your Jeep to the ground...

Oh, and yes, you still need an inverter of some kind.
 

BajaDrifter

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Or, if your gladie has the AC outlet in the rear passenger area like mine, you could jump that outlet and run wire to the bed outlet.
 

Mr._Bill

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where would you put the inverter and where would you splice into the wiring harnes? or would you just run new wires?
The factory inverter is only 400 watts and is located under the steering column. Get an inverter with the output capacity to meet your needs. Mount it near the battery. Run wire from the inverter back to the outlet. This will provide you a setup that is actually more useful than what comes from the factory
 

bheath-atx

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It seems to me that any of the AUX switches could be used to power a relay on and off that connected directly to the battery and passed as much power as you wanted (appropriate to wire gauge and fusing of course). Is there any reason that this would not work?

Also, if you install an AC outlet to the bed, wouldn't you need to install a GFI for protection?
 

SwampNut

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Also, if you install an AC outlet to the bed, wouldn't you need to install a GFI for protection?
This is a great point, and I wonder if the factory inverter includes one? There are no signs of it, but maybe it resets by simply turning the inverter off and back on? I think I'll test this later today.
 

                           
























































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