Overland or Rubicon

[WILDHOBO]

It’s all good just didn’t want misleading info for the OP. To go to 35s tires can be semi limited. Mainly since the overland wheel is 7.5 wide. Which is generally narrow. I opted for 295/70s which is kinda that sweet spot for width and height. Practically a 35 equivalent. Also heard of ppl doing 285s etc.

Mine are 7.5” wide as well, which is why I chose a 37 that only recommended 8”. Very slight difference, and I’m saving weight and a bit of cash.

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[NC_Overland]

You’re right of course. My mistake completely. So more sidewall than 20’s for sure, but not as much as 17’s. Have you found as many tire options available, or is it more limited with 18? I’m genuinely interested, and am not being snide. Why do you prefer 18? Sorry for the error.

As an overland owner with 18s, I’d be fine with 17s. There are a lot of 18” options available, but I’ve never done a side by side comparison.

 

[Barnaby’sdad]

I viewed the Rubicon as a “buy once, cry once” kind of thing. I don‘t have the time and interest to build a rig at this point and the Rubicon had everything that I’d ever want and then some. I won’t lift it and I likely won’t put bigger tires on it.

Now if you’re seriously thinking about running 37’s…I’d have to give that some thought. You don’t want to pay a premium for the Rubicon setup and then have to pay a bunch of money to upgrade. Just my two cents,
.

 

[WILDHOBO]

They are 18” wheels, not 20”.

with my limited slip rear end and the auto brake limited slip up front, I’ve never had an issue with traction and I’ve been in some SE Red Clay in NC, GA, TN, and AL. If you aren’t familiar, it makes my A/Ts like slicks. I got my XJ and WJ stuck in it several times.

Yep. Already corrected. I had the HA trim in my head for some reason. I’ve heard good things about the auto brake.

 

[WILDHOBO]

I viewed the Rubicon as a “buy once, cry once” kind of thing. I don‘t have the time and interest to build a rig at this point and the Rubicon had everything that I’d ever want and then some. I won’t lift it and I likely won’t put bigger tires on it.

Now if you’re seriously thinking about running 37’s…I’d have to give that some thought. You don’t want to pay a premium for the Rubicon setup and then have to pay a bunch of money to upgrade. Just my two cents,
.

I agree that with 37’s, the gears will likely be upgraded either way, but the lockers and sway bar disconnect are big deals, and costly to add. The off road plus mode is truly great as well, and I don’t think that can be put on an overland.

 

[NC_Overland]

I agree that with 37’s, the gears will likely be upgraded either way, but the lockers and sway bar disconnect are big deals, and costly to add. The off road plus mode is truly great as well, and I don’t think that can be put on an overland.

No. It’s just the low speed crawl control or whatever they call it. It works good, but I’m sure the off-road plus is nice with being able to select the different terrains and able to use it going over like 3.7 mph or whatever super slow speed it is. I’ve only used it playing with it because I haven’t needed it. I intentionally buried it on the beach once and it popped right out like it was nothing.

 

[Barnaby’sdad]

I agree that with 37’s, the gears will likely be upgraded either way, but the lockers and sway bar disconnect are big deals, and costly to add. The off road plus mode is truly great as well, and I don’t think that can be put on an overland.

The lockers and 4.10 gears were one of my deciding factors.

The sway bars disconnecting via a switch is a neat feature, but that wasn’t really a deciding factor for me (I had a manual disconnect sway bar on my last off-road toy vehicle).

The off-road modes? I have to wonder if that’s going to be a deciding factor for too many folks. You’re likely going to choose the Rubicon for the underpinnings or the sweet decal on the hood, lol.

 

[NC_Overland]

The lockers and 4.10 gears were one of my deciding factors.

The sway bars disconnecting via a switch is a neat feature, but that wasn’t really a deciding factor for me (I had a manual disconnect sway bar on my last off-road toy vehicle).

The off-road modes? I have to wonder if that’s going to be a deciding factor for too many folks. You’re likely going to choose the Rubicon for the underpinnings or the sweet decal on the hood, lol.

Can’t make this shit up. When my Rubicon was new, some jack ass stole half of my letters on one side. I guess whoever it was thought they could reuse them and I guess someone ran them of in the middle. I was pissed, but also laughed about it because it was so ridiculous.

 

[Barnaby’sdad]

Can’t make this shit up. When my Rubicon was new, some jack ass stole half of my letters on one side. I guess whoever it was thought they could reuse them and I guess someone ran them of in the middle. I was pissed, but also laughed about it because it was so ridiculous.

I’m just waiting for something stupid to happen:

-First new vehicle. Hydro locked the engine around the one year mark

-Second new vehicle. Someone backed into it (hit and run) the second week I had it (still on temporary tags)

-Third new vehicle…took it through a touch free car wash on the third day of ownership and the rear window shattered and threw glass through the entire car

-Fourth (new-ish) vehicle - freak hail storm at the one month mark. The hood looked like I’d parked it at a golf ball driving range.

- JT - We’re at less than a week and ~200 miles, so we’ll see what happens.? Tempted to go out to the garage, get a hammer, and make a couple dings just to get it over with. ?

 

[susee80]

Two thoughts. You don’t need a rubicon for what you mentioned.

however, if you’re going to stick with 35s, I’d get a rubicon for the 4.10s. Past 35s, you’ll want to re-gear anyway and you’ll need at least a spacer lift so might as well get an overland.

btw, I have the low speed crawl control and off-road pages in my overland. It works really well. I just have the different off-road modes and you can go faster in the crawl control in a rubicon.

I had a rubicon before. I bought it becuse I was in CO and I used it there on super steep mountain trails. I don’t want a 4:1 TC here. I would have strongly considered a Mojave if it was out when I bought mine though.

As I understand it you can only get the 3.73s with the diesel even in the Rubicon. I think the advantage is the wider axle, lockers, sway bar disconnect, fox shocks, and high mount fenders, which sounds like 35’s fit stock.

Ok some I did some soul searching on the same topic for awhile prior to getting my Overland.

So for me the Overland just worked and I wouldn’t have changed it. I’m super happy with my Overland. There literally isn’t a feature it doesn’t have (as far as packages, groups, add ons etc). Although I wasn’t opting for the Diesel version from either I’m not sure how there’s only a 4k difference for you. Maybe location and other factors, etc. But no matter how much I factored it in I was looking at another 8k roughly difference in price at the time last year I bought mine.

So here’s my thing…For me, I couldn’t justify an extra 8k for a(non-loaded) Rubicon for my needs. Do I Offroad? Absolutely, but I live in the city so it’s a good distance drive in any direction to do that. But I can. And my Overland as most other Jeeps even stock is pretty damn capable Offroad for my liking and amount. Yes I’ve done a little to mine (Rubi suspension, 35s, leveling kit, etc). But it’s still semi stock. But overall I’m a city driver. Hence the reason I also went with ATs versus MT tires. So the extra thing such as locker, disconnects, gears weren’t worth the extra cost in my case to get a Rubicon. And that’s just a Rubicon without any of my creature comforts or body options (ie; leather seats, body color fenders). I’d much rather have my fully loaded Overland than a Rubicon with some cloth seats and plastic fenders.

Im happy with 35s at the moment and probably will be for awhile possibly forever. But if I wanted to go larger, although costly can obviously regear or add lockers etc later. In a perfect world would I have got a Rubicon? Absolutely as o long as it has the same features my Overland has and nothing less. But for that on a Rubi, for me just wasn’t worth it. Especially for my use.

I see you’re off road practicality is at 20%. So I guess with all that said it’s a matter of what matters most to you. Can you afford the extra cost for what features the Rubi offers? How important are those features to you vs the same features you’re comparing to on the Overland? (Assuming as stated you are comparing both models….fully loaded).Side note if you plan on keeping stock wheels for awhile. overland arguable has the best stock wheels of any trim. Just sayin.

My Overland

Ok some I did some soul searching on the same topic for awhile prior to getting my Overland.

So for me the Overland just worked and I wouldn’t have changed it. I’m super happy with my Overland. There literally isn’t a feature it doesn’t have (as far as packages, groups, add ons etc). Although I wasn’t opting for the Diesel version from either I’m not sure how there’s only a 4k difference for you. Maybe location and other factors, etc. But no matter how much I factored it in I was looking at another 8k roughly difference in price at the time last year I bought mine.

So here’s my thing…For me, I couldn’t justify an extra 8k for a(non-loaded) Rubicon for my needs. Do I Offroad? Absolutely, but I live in the city so it’s a good distance drive in any direction to do that. But I can. And my Overland as most other Jeeps even stock is pretty damn capable Offroad for my liking and amount. Yes I’ve done a little to mine (Rubi suspension, 35s, leveling kit, etc). But it’s still semi stock. But overall I’m a city driver. Hence the reason I also went with ATs versus MT tires. So the extra thing such as locker, disconnects, gears weren’t worth the extra cost in my case to get a Rubicon. And that’s just a Rubicon without any of my creature comforts or body options (ie; leather seats, body color fenders). I’d much rather have my fully loaded Overland than a Rubicon with some cloth seats and plastic fenders.

Im happy with 35s at the moment and probably will be for awhile possibly forever. But if I wanted to go larger, although costly can obviously regear or add lockers etc later. In a perfect world would I have got a Rubicon? Absolutely as o long as it has the same features my Overland has and nothing less. But for that on a Rubi, for me just wasn’t worth it. Especially for my use.

I see you’re off road practicality is at 20%. So I guess with all that said it’s a matter of what matters most to you. Can you afford the extra cost for what features the Rubi offers? How important are those features to you vs the same features you’re comparing to on the Overland? (Assuming as stated you are comparing both models….fully loaded).Side note if you plan on keeping stock wheels for awhile. overland arguable has the best stock wheels of any trim. Just sayin.

My Overland

Great looking truck! I agree with what your saying for sure. I am comparing the overland and rubicon with the exact same features, fully loaded diesels the only package left off is adaptive cruise. (I don’t like it) Diesels don’t get 4.10s so that’s out. I like the 35s for sure, but if I could make 37s fit fairly easily on the rubicon Id go that direction.

 

[WILDHOBO]

As I understand it you can only get the 3.73s with the diesel even in the Rubicon. I think the advantage is the wider axle, lockers, sway bar disconnect, fox shocks, and high mount fenders, which sounds like 35’s fit stock.

Does the diesel rubicon come with 3.73 diff gears? I was under the impression that all Rubicons get 4.10:1.

 

[susee80]

I viewed the Rubicon as a “buy once, cry once” kind of thing. I don‘t have the time and interest to build a rig at this point and the Rubicon had everything that I’d ever want and then some. I won’t lift it and I likely won’t put bigger tires on it.

Now if you’re seriously thinking about running 37’s…I’d have to give that some thought. You don’t want to pay a premium for the Rubicon setup and then have to pay a bunch of money to upgrade. Just my two cents,
.

That’s kinda what I’m debating is the buy once cry once thing. I’m now looking to see what it takes to run 37’s on a diesel rubicon

 

[susee80]

Don’t get me wrong, the overland owners above have beautiful Jeeps. But I believe that’s one of the problems if you intend to use these off road a fair amount. I think 20% is quite a lot of off road use. Most probably do 5%. The overland has the attractive 20” wheels, but 20” wheels aren’t ideal for off roading with so much less sidewall. I retract this statement if we’re taking about 40’s, but I don’t think we are. I too like stock wheels, but bigger tires on stock 17” wheels are more functional off-road. I think if you’re mostly driving in the city and/or on the beach, or forest/gravel roads, the overland is great. But I think it’s more expensive to upgrade than a rubicon is, as the rubi has much more to start. Here’s mine with stock wheels and 37’s.

Good looking rig, are you running 37’s on stock suspension and wheels?

 

[NC_Overland]

As I understand it you can only get the 3.73s with the diesel even in the Rubicon. I think the advantage is the wider axle, lockers, sway bar disconnect, fox shocks, and high mount fenders, which sounds like 35’s fit stock.

That’s true about the diesel and 3.73s. I forgot about that!

 

[susee80]

Does the diesel rubicon come with 3.73 diff gears? I was under the impression that all Rubicons get 4.10:1.

99% sure the diesel gets 3.73s I just went back to the website and checked.

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