Rear antirock - who has it??

[chorky]

2020 sport max tow and 2” mopar lift and 35’s.
I have front and rear antirock and would highly recommend both.
- Installed e locker up front and kept the LSD in the rear for now.
- slightly more floating feel at first . Don’t notice it anymore.
- I installed the thicker front bar (.850)?
- Rarely carry loads, but had 350 in the back last week and didn’t handle any different.
- Tow a 4000 lb camper several time this summer with no issues and no weight distribution bars. It didn’t handle any different then before the antirock install.
- I don’t wheel it hard very often, but the thing is unstoppable IMO. Mostly do the Jeep jamboree’s and Jeep invasions.

Good to know. I have the Rubi so no need for anti-rock up front. I am holding out for this supposed stiffer anti-rock though because I expect to have 300-400 pounds always in the bed. canopies and RTT's are heavy...

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[chorky]

Looks like they got the rear HD Anti-Rock rolled out on their site finally.....for those interested

https://rebeloffroad.com/rockjock-4...uty-sway-bar-kit-1-1-8-bar-jeep-jt-gladiator/

 

[tonywin]

Glad you brought this to the top. I just installed a front anti rock and I absolutely love the way it rides. Enough that I am considering a rear one now. Happy to hear the inputs from people that have.

 

[chorky]

Glad you brought this to the top. I just installed a front anti rock and I absolutely love the way it rides. Enough that I am considering a rear one now. Happy to hear the inputs from people that have.

there are a few on here that I think have the rear but not this one. This is more for those who are heavily loaded but still want benefits of anti-rock in the rear. They have another one that is lighter weight for those who do more unloaded trips or dont tow.

 

[Jefe1018]

What else needs to be upgraded to run the rear? I'm thinking you'd need extended brake lines and possibly extended ABS sensors, right?

 

[chorky]

What else needs to be upgraded to run the rear? I'm thinking you'd need extended brake lines and possibly extended ABS sensors, right?

No probably not unless you have a lift. The anti-rock isn't going to increase the full range of travel necessarily, it just makes it easier to flex the suspension. The suspension is already limited with its travel via bump stop, limit strap, shock, or some type of mechanism (bump stop and shock for most trucks). The factory should have already made sure that the lines are long enough to support the full range of travel. Now if you had a lift, then yeah extended lines would probably be needed.

The point of anti-rock is not necessarily to allow for more flex. It does, by having a 'lighter' sway bar, but that doesn't necessarily produce more suspension travel - it just allows the suspension to travel its engineered range of motion easier. Sway bars only come into effect when there is body roll or unequal compression of the suspension. So if you just haul butt over a speed bump, or jump, and your suspension is compressing and rebounding equally on both sides, the sway bar is a moot point. But, if one tire goes over a bump, and the other does not, then the sway bar effectively pushes the body to the side without the bump. Sway bars are important for cornering, emergency maneuvers, and off camber situations. If you were to be on a off camber road, and had no sway bar, you would likely roll quicker and easier than with a sway bar.

So the benefit (to me) of this sway bar, is it is much stiffer than the standard anti-rock, so it supports cornering and off camber better, but still allows easier flex as compared to stock, so when your rear tires go over uneven bumps/dips, instead of rocking the boat side to side it would feel more plush like in a rubicon with the front sway's disconnected.

So - caution must be taken - with a modified rear sway, if you do tow, or haul heavy. Cornering and emergency maneuvers can be compromised.

 

[Rynomar]

Looks like they got the rear HD Anti-Rock rolled out on their site finally.....for those interested

https://rebeloffroad.com/rockjock-4...uty-sway-bar-kit-1-1-8-bar-jeep-jt-gladiator/

I got mine in a couple weeks ago, but haven't had a chance to mount it up yet. Hopefully I can get it in this weekend and will let you know how it goes!

 

[MickeyHogan72]

I have the antirock heavy rate in the front and the Hellwig sway bar in the rear. I’m on 38’s with about 3/4” of lift (AEVstandard rate + 3/4” spacers F/R.) Just hook a 6400 mile trip from Tampa to Colorado then the Rubicon and Moab. The setup drove great and I had the rear sway bar on the lightest setting. I have an ARE cap on the truck and it was pretty packed between the spare, tools, spare fluids, Highlift jack and recovery gear. I also towed a 2500lb trailer loaded with stuff for two people. That being said……. I dragged the sway bar quite a bit on the Rubicon. I also ripped the links out of the frame on a previous trip so I have the Metalcloak brackets now. I’m going to replace it with a rear antirock just haven’t decided on the standard or heavy rate yet.

 

[hjdca]

I have the antirock heavy rate in the front and the Hellwig sway bar in the rear. I’m on 38’s with about 3/4” of lift (AEVstandard rate + 3/4” spacers F/R.) Just hook a 6400 mile trip from Tampa to Colorado then the Rubicon and Moab. The setup drove great and I had the rear sway bar on the lightest setting. I have an ARE cap on the truck and it was pretty packed between the spare, tools, spare fluids, Highlift jack and recovery gear. I also towed a 2500lb trailer loaded with stuff for two people. That being said……. I dragged the sway bar quite a bit on the Rubicon. I also ripped the links out of the frame on a previous trip so I have the Metalcloak brackets now. I’m going to replace it with a rear antirock just haven’t decided on the standard or heavy rate yet.

I also kept bending my end links on the rock gardens and got the Metalcloak bracket to save the mounting brackets at the Rubicon. My end links still bent and my sway bar tab bent also now..., but, my brackets were saved. In the end, I got sick of the problem and went with the antirock rear sway bar. I have the front stock Rubicon sway bar with the Rubicon electronic sway disconnect. I really did not feel any difference in street cornering, and I love the anti-rock offroad. No more bent end links or sway bar tabs. What a relief.

Antirock

 

[MickeyHogan72]

I also kept bending my end links on the rock gardens and got the Metalcloak bracket to save the mounting brackets at the Rubicon. My end links still bent and my sway bar tab bent also now..., but, my brackets were saved. In the end, I got sick of the problem and went with the antirock rear sway bar. I have the front stock Rubicon sway bar with the Rubicon electronic sway disconnect. I really did not feel any difference in street cornering, and I love the anti-rock offroad. No more bent end links or sway bar tabs. What a relief.

Antirock

Did you get the standard or heavy rate?

 

[briscoelab]

Worrying about changing the rear sway bar in to a lighter one in order to improve onroad ride quality (with an otherwise stock suspension) is just about the lest effective way I can imagine to work toward you goal.

Seriously, get some better shocks if you are happy with the ride heigh and weight carrying capacity of your current springs.

Or invest in some springs and shocks if you need an overall improvement.

I think the stock Rubicons are both under sprung and under damped. Given the body roll and lean on road I've seen with stock setups and a small to moderate payload onboard, I wouldn't think about putting a lighter tuned sway bar on the rear of a gladiator, with otherwise stock suspension.

That said, I LOVED the anti-rock I had installed on the front of my old TJ (with a triangulated 4-link rear). I think a sport or overland JT would do really well with a front antirock installed over a set of disconnects.

 

[briscoelab]

I have the antirock heavy rate in the front and the Hellwig sway bar in the rear. I’m on 38’s with about 3/4” of lift (AEVstandard rate + 3/4” spacers F/R.) Just hook a 6400 mile trip from Tampa to Colorado then the Rubicon and Moab. The setup drove great and I had the rear sway bar on the lightest setting. I have an ARE cap on the truck and it was pretty packed between the spare, tools, spare fluids, Highlift jack and recovery gear. I also towed a 2500lb trailer loaded with stuff for two people. That being said……. I dragged the sway bar quite a bit on the Rubicon. I also ripped the links out of the frame on a previous trip so I have the Metalcloak brackets now. I’m going to replace it with a rear antirock just haven’t decided on the standard or heavy rate yet.

Get the heavy duty one given your use case!

 

[hjdca]

Did you get the standard or heavy rate?

I have the standard rate. The heavy rate was not available when I got mine. I only have molle racks full of tools, small refrigerator, and a hard folding tonneau cover for my bed. I have RSE steps with armor and lots of armor underneath my truck. I also have adjustable Falcon shocks which I dial in to my liking in the rear. the standard is good for me, but, if you tow, and have more weight, probably the heavy duty is better.

 

[Free2roam]

Reviving this. I have a Hellwig bar in the garage not installed yet. I've thought about going to the heavy rear AR sway bar. I'll be carrying 700 lbs or so. Definitely not a rock crawler but rocks happen. Mostly if not all on trips on BDR trips and camping up high in the Eastern Sierra's. Is anyone carrying this much weight. I will be getting a Clayton Overland kit 2.5 possibly this week. Clayton HD springs in back as well. Pics and or videos would be helpful.

 

[hjdca]

Reviving this. I have a Hellwig bar in the garage not installed yet. I've thought about going to the heavy rear AR sway bar. I'll be carrying 700 lbs or so. Definitely not a rock crawler but rocks happen. Mostly if not all on trips on BDR trips and camping up high in the Eastern Sierra's. Is anyone carrying this much weight. I will be getting a Clayton Overland kit 2.5 possibly this week. Clayton HD springs in back as well. Pics and or videos would be helpful.

The best valid reason to go with the rear anti-rock is if you are bending end links while doing trails. I was bending end links at 3 badge of Honor trails - Big Bear - John Bull Trail, Holcomb Creek Trail; and the Rubicon Trail. Everytime I did one of these trails, I bent at least one rear end link. Big Bear is not far from me, so, we do those trails periodically. I was constantly fixing my rear bent end links. The Anti-rock fixed all that - I have the standard stiffness bar with Falcon adjustable shocks, and I am happy with this setup. Do you have adjustable rear shocks ? With the anti-rock with the new stiffer bar and adjustable rear shocks, you should be able to dial in the rear stiffness you need.
Note: I have a buddy who tows with his Gladiator and has the Teraflex version of the Antirock for the rear. It is a copy with a heavier duty rod that is cheaper, but, requires you to drill a hole in the frame. He has adjustable Falcon shocks in the rear and he is happy with this setup.

But, overall, I doubt the Antirock even with the stiffer bar will be as stiff as the Hellwig on the stiffest settings.

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