Recommended Aftermarket Hitch Receiver for new 24 Gladiator Sport S

[gladerater23]

Far as I recall, that hole Curt has one drill through the bumper is just the plastic covering to get to that cross member hole. There is nothing extra structurally with the Curt instructions. Even the guys at Etrailer.com talk about in their install video for the Curt video mention both methods of either drilling the hole through the bumper cover or removing the bumper for install with the latter being their method.

https://www.etrailer.com/tv-Install-Curt-Trailer-Hitch-Receiver-2020-Jeep-Gladiator-CU74FR.aspx

Yes you are right again. That hole is a short cut to access the main bolt that mounts to the cross member. The hole is ugly, fills with dirt snow and ice.

One thing I do NOT know is..... the curt is rated for 5000 tow and 500# tongue weights. What is the class 4 or the one piece (best way) rated at???????

I do not tow with the gladiator. I got this for cargo, flags and small trailer so it's all i need. Not to mention heavy frequent towing will kill or gladiators pre maturely. At least that is what the service manager told me. I live in a very hilly stop and go terrain so towing is work here.

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[Aberk]

I didn't read the whole thread, but have you checked FB Marketplace? I have mine listed for sale there and I am sure anyone else that has pulled their bed does too. Too bad I'm down in Atlanta.

 

[Hootbro]

What is the class 4 or the one piece (best way) rated at???????

At least 7700 lbs that matches the max Gladiator GTW rating. Piece itself probably has been tested above that but they cannot publish those numbers unless the rest of the vehicle can match it. Failure testing most times is usually 150%-200% of intended use loading.

 

[gladerater23]

At least 7700 lbs that matches the max Gladiator GTW rating. Piece itself probably has been tested above that but they cannot publish those numbers unless the rest of the vehicle can match it. Failure testing most times is usually 150%-200% of intended use loading.

So do you think the 5k is on the low side too?

 

[Hootbro]

So do you think the 5k is on the low side too?

Do not confuse the point at which something is rated to fail vs a in service duty rating.

The 5000 lbs duty rating is for day in and day out use. Above that, you start having sliding margins the amount of time and what amount over the duty rating before you will have a failure.

Is there margins above 5000 lbs? Probably but it would be foolish to advise or recommend anything above that.

 

[Zachanadandy]

So do you think the 5k is on the low side too?

It's a $100 price difference and an easier install so why not? Then if you need to use it in a pinch you can. Also I'm pretty sure the half hitch isn't rated for use with a weight distributing hitch. Is it better than nothing? Sure. Would I insist on an upgrade of the truck came with a half hitch on it? Probably not. Would I ever buy one? Hell no. Would I even bother installing it if it was given to me? Not when the much better hitch is only $200.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I'd suggest some critical thinking - and thinking beyond this single receiver device..........
The BUMPER and the CROSS MEMBER are made in such a way you can use a hole saw to cut through the plastic cover, and insert a TYPICAL 2" trailer ball - which has a 3/4" shank (pulling from memory and decades of towing)

You can use that hole saw, cut the plastic cover, slip the shank of a 1 7/8" or 2" ball through the hole in the STEEL of the bumper and the cross member.
When you install the ball, it's attached to the bumper and the cross member.

This receiver does the same thing - unless you are Hootbro - uh, I mean, Red Green, and ignore the directions and do it your own way (sounds like a song there)

The head of the bolt that Curt furnishes DOES clamp down against the steel of the bumper.
The hole in the bumper steel is NOT large enough for the head of a 3/4" bolt as Curt supplies to GO THROUGH.
It clamps the bumper steel and cross member into a sandwich. Thus, some people talking about needing an extra washer.

The sandwich is:
Bolt head/bumper steel/cross member/Curt receiver.
The receiver is threaded so you literally clamp the bumper and cross member together as a UNIT - if you follow Curt's directions.

if you do not follow their instructions/directions and instead you remove the bumper, then it's bolted only to the cross member.

All one has to do is keep in mind these are designed to use a BALL on the bumper and the rest explains itself if one is capable of critical thinking.

There's no way in hell the head of that bolt Curt furnishes will go through the small hole in the steel of the bumper. Think on it for a bit.

The ball creates a sandwich as well -
the base of the ball/bumper steel/cross member, lock washer and nut on the 3/4" ball shank.

The Curt receiver does the exact same thing in a sense, thus their use of a 3/4" bolt.
It's a perfect fit for the 3/4" hole in the steel part of the bumper!

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Not to mention heavy frequent towing will kill or gladiators pre maturely. At least that is what the service manager told me

Oh, please don't listen to "service managers" - this forum is full of really 150% incorrect things "service managers" have said over the years. There's some real doozies out here.
I turned down the service manager position at a large Jeep dealership years ago because I didn't want to be a desk-jockey and do all of that paperwork and deal with the employees. I prefer being hands on as a tech.

Not sure why it would "kill" them prematurely as it's the same engine and transmission used in other things that tow heavier loads. Over half of the issue is the driver. Use manual mode in these transmissions, prevent hunting, prevent over-speeding or under-speeding the engine, it will be fine.

I've gotten a "service manager" fired before - knew more than he did. And proved it to the factory reps.

 

[gladerater23]

I'd suggest some critical thinking - and thinking beyond this single receiver device..........
The BUMPER and the CROSS MEMBER are made in such a way you can use a hole saw to cut through the plastic cover, and insert a TYPICAL 2" trailer ball - which has a 3/4" shank (pulling from memory and decades of towing)

You can use that hole saw, cut the plastic cover, slip the shank of a 1 7/8" or 2" ball through the hole in the STEEL of the bumper and the cross member.
When you install the ball, it's attached to the bumper and the cross member.

This receiver does the same thing - unless you are Hootbro - uh, I mean, Red Green, and ignore the directions and do it your own way (sounds like a song there)

The head of the bolt that Curt furnishes DOES clamp down against the steel of the bumper.
The hole in the bumper steel is NOT large enough for the head of a 3/4" bolt as Curt supplies to GO THROUGH.
It clamps the bumper steel and cross member into a sandwich. Thus, some people talking about needing an extra washer.

The sandwich is:
Bolt head/bumper steel/cross member/Curt receiver.
The receiver is threaded so you literally clamp the bumper and cross member together as a UNIT - if you follow Curt's directions.

if you do not follow their instructions/directions and instead you remove the bumper, then it's bolted only to the cross member.

All one has to do is keep in mind these are designed to use a BALL on the bumper and the rest explains itself if one is capable of critical thinking.

There's no way in hell the head of that bolt Curt furnishes will go through the small hole in the steel of the bumper. Think on it for a bit.

The ball creates a sandwich as well -
the base of the ball/bumper steel/cross member, lock washer and nut on the 3/4" ball shank.

The Curt receiver does the exact same thing in a sense, thus their use of a 3/4" bolt.
It's a perfect fit for the 3/4" hole in the steel part of the bumper!

Dude
Give it up....... it does NOT bolt to the bumper.

I can take my bumper off right now.

Just admit it you don't know what your talking about

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Dude
Give it up....... it does NOT bolt to the bumper.

I can take my bumper off right now.

Just admit it you don't know what your talking about

You can take your bumper off because you didn't follow Curt directions. It's that simple. That's why you and Hootbro can pull the bumper.

If you bothered to read the Curt instructions and look at one installed according to those directions, there's no way to pull that bumper off.

You can install according to Curt - who made the bloody damned thing, or according to third party vendors.

According to Curt - it DOES bolt to the bumper. I will bet anything you've never bothered to look at a by the book installation.
So I guess you are lacking critical thinking abilities. And you ignored the photos of a Curt install I posted. Bet you didn't even READ the PDF file.

I'll take my fabrication skills and towing experience up against yours any day - come on over.

Installed using the PDF instructions - no way in hell to remove that bumper.

Wow, beginner just can't think through how that thing bolts together or see the bolt head clamped down against the steel of the bumper. it's pretty obvious.

Yes, if you use the youtube videos, you remove the bumper and thus can remove the bumper. DUH! Geesh.
But if you use OTHER youtube videos and the INSTRUCTIONS, it's bolted TO the bumper.

Tell me that guy can pull that bumper off right now.

I'll bet you have not read the instructions or even looked at the photos as you are convinced and refuse to see another possible side - Curt's installation method.

 

[Zachanadandy]

Dude
Give it up....... it does NOT bolt to the bumper.

I can take my bumper off right now.

Just admit it you don't know what your talking about

You're wrong, I can take my bumper off because I installed it wrong!

 

[Hootbro]

You can take your bumper off because you didn't follow Curt directions. It's that simple. That's why you and Hootbro can pull the bumper.

This receiver does the same thing - unless you are Hootbro - uh, I mean, Red Green, and ignore the directions and do it your own way (sounds like a song there)

If being dismissive, condescending and smarmy was a superpower Bill, you could try out for the Avengers.

You are stuck in some loop that cannot fathom that some other way to skin this cat without drilling a hole through a piece of plastic that is not structural to begin with is incorrect or wrong because it does not follow "Curt" instructions is asinine.

Things cannot be just what they are. Always has to be some "more correct" for some win on the internet nobody cares about.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

If being dismissive, condescending and smarmy was a superpower Bill, you could try out for the Avengers.

You are stuck in some loop that cannot fathom that some other way to skin this cat without drilling a hole through a piece of plastic that is not structural to begin with is incorrect or wrong because it does not follow "Curt" instructions is asinine.

Things cannot be just what they are. Always has to be some "more correct" for some win on the internet nobody cares about.

I did point out there are two ways, that's why he can take the bumper off and THEN it's not bolted to the bumper.
The other way, by the PDF, it IS bolted to the bumper.
I clearly said one way it is not, the other way it is, but he still said no it's not, period. His way, no it's not. Curt's way, it is. So I was saying both.
(there are as many videos showing cutting that plastic as there are showing bumper removal)

You can pull the bumper off and the receiver isn't bolted to it.
That's one method.
His isn't the only way but he basically said it was.

HERE is exactly what I said (you can have it both ways) ->

t does if you follow Curt's directions, posted here.
It doesn't if you use youtube videos.

Some of us are going by the directions from Curt - some follow QT as they don't read paper directions. Some make their own choices and don't need instructions or videos at all.

But the technical reality is - according to CURT, it does indeed bolt to the bumper AND cross member.
If you don't follow their directions, it doesn't.
There - now you can have it both ways.

Some prefer not to bother removing a bumper, and make it simple and follow this PDF, and then put a plug over the bolt so you don't see it.
You can have it both ways.

I got back a "no it doesn't"

 

[The Yeti]

If you only tow a small utility trailer and max out at low weight and really low tongue weight, you can go cheap. But for any real towing, nothing but the latter receiver type works.
You are very limited in the weight you can tow with the bumper mounts, limited in tongue weight and cannot use a weight distributing hitch with a bumper mount.
For me, it's a no brainier. Heck, I even have a receiver type on my little SX4 in case I want to haul a bike rack or whatever.

Number 2 is still a bumper mount - so you are quite limited in weight, tongue weight and no weight distributing hitches. They are sold more for those who want to use accessories - receiver mount platforms, bike racks and so on, but IMO, are good for little else. It's basically about the same as a ball mount except you can use accessories with it.

Shadowpapa's firdt post pretty much tells ya what you need to know. I have 20+ years towing experience on a daily for work, selfemployed and pay out of pocket for equiptment. I know the cost vs worth scale and its worth it to biy the quality piece even if its over kill IF it suits your needs. I brought my first JEEP (current JT) home a couple years ago assuming they called it a truck so it would have a hitch. Quick to look when I get home and find out its more Jeep than truck for sure, with no hitch. I added a Curt branded version of your second option being ill haul a small 16' flat deck utility trailer with a quad or random load to the dump once in awhile and if I need to tow anything substantial I'll use a truck made for it. Was a quick easy intall but a big 1" strpng arm is what it took to get it to the torque spec. These things dont have a huge payload capacity BUT if you are planning on towing (even once, better safe than sorry) anything with a bit of weight or any type of even small travel trailer with your JT (personally I wouldn't but thats an arguement to be had another day in another thread) go with option 3 in the best available GVWR option with a trusted brand. Option 1 should not even be an option weve come a long way from the early 1900's no need to biy that piece umless your needing to swap out the ball on your interchangeable hitch for a light tow.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Shadowpapa's firdt post pretty much tells ya what you need to know. I have 20+ years towing experience on a dailt basis for work. I brought my first JEEP (current JT) home a couple years ago assuming they called it a truck so it wpuld have a hitch. Quick to look when I get home and find out its more Jeep tha. Truck for sure, with no hitch. I added a Curt braded of your second option being ill haul a small 16' flat deck utility trailer with a quad or random load to the dump once in awhile and if I need to tow anything substantial I'll use a truck made for it. Thesethings dont havw a huge payload capacity BUT if you are planning on towing (even once, better safe than sorry) anything with a bit of weight or amy type of even small travel trailer with your JT (persoanlly I wouldn't but thats an arguement to be had another day in another thread) go with option 3 in the best available GVWR option with a trusted brand.

I've seen what happens when things come apart. In one case a trailer dropped on I80 and the couple behind it were decapitated.
It's one area I refuse to skimp on. I might go cheap some places, but never for brakes or towing equipment.
I've installed hitches and more on grain trucks, boom trucks, everything from 1 ton one down as far as pickups, cars, SUVs and so on.
There's a lot of ways to do things, but I get really anal about instructions on towing equipment. The forces applied to that receiver, ball mount and so on go crazy high in emergencies. 6,000 pounds becomes double that in force in some situations.
Such things are also generally good for "straight line pulls" and not winches or racks and what-not.
I'm just really picky when it comes to towing, I've seen things people should never ever see (outside of the military or first responders). I still get physically ill thinking back on some of those scenes.

Sorry if I offend - not intentional - it's just that we all share the highways and streets together and share responsibility for each other's safety. If I did something dumb or cheaped out while towing and someone got hurt or worse, I don't even want to think about how the rest of my life might go.

So my apologies to those I've pissed off or offended. I just want the facts out there.
Thousands of people - NON forum members, see these pages every week and take advice from them - and believe whatever they read!

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