RTT hoist in carport

[staying_tuned]

Our carport is quite sturdy and snow rated at 80psf. I had to clear out a bird nest under one of the eves and ended up laying on it and felt no wiggle. That said, the manufacturer specifically recommends against mounting any shelving to the framing.

I had a hoist in our garage for a JKU hard top and while I felt clever afterwards, this was before we had our carport which would allow far greater maneuverability. I'm looking for help to provision the carport for mounting a hoist similar to the Fleximount GL44B. I assembled hardware from local big box hardware last time and while it worked, this time I'd rather just buy something specifically designed for the role. That plus with the height, I'll be able to use the rack it comes with as a shelf for more storage (see taco example below).

Have a gander at these rough notes and let me know what you think. 100% out of my element here. In the garage it was easy. Not exactly sure where the most beneficial places would be to reinforce before hanging the hoist hardware. Basically I want to avoid any drilling so the idea is to flux weld some additional supports using old bed frame angle iron I've been hanging onto. Then I'll cut some chain link down to tack on a few hoops to prevent the main straps from sliding etc.

Here is the same hoist being used by a Taco owner for their RTT. Some use it to pull off their entire rack with RTT mounted. It's rated at 300 lbs. If I go with this exact hoist, the loops would be leveraged to mount the frame of the hoist itself.

Thanks in advance for any tips!

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[Rokon]

I think you will be better served drilling holes and using nuts and bolts for attachment. Welding to thin galvanized is a poor choice. You also open up corrosion issues.
Spacers are probably also required so as not to collapse the beams from overtightening.

 

[staying_tuned]

I think you will be better served drilling holes and using nuts and bolts for attachment. Welding to thin galvanized is a poor choice. You also open up corrosion issues.
Spacers are probably also required so as not to collapse the beams from overtightening.

Got it, ok I'll shift this entire thing to nuts & bolts vs welding. Thanks a ton for the quick feedback!

 

[Rokon]

Your green support angles should be doubled up. A piece on each side of the existing channel. No twisty loads induced that way. I'm not even sure how much they would really help supplementing the existing braces.

 

[Mr._Bill]

I look for the easiest way, which may not be the best. My thought is two 2x4's that are ten or twelve feet long placed above the top brace in the joists. Use some strips on each side of the joists to maintain side to side spacing and minimize movement. The hoist will be easy to attach, and the load will be spread out across the frame without having to compromise it with drilling or welding.

 

[staying_tuned]

I look for the easiest way, which may not be the best. My thought is two 2x4's that are ten or twelve feet long placed above the top brace in the joists. Use some strips on each side of the joists to maintain side to side spacing and minimize movement. The hoist will be easy to attach, and the load will be spread out across the frame without having to compromise it with drilling or welding.

Those top horizontal braces aren’t very thick but I like the simplicity of running large spans, I’ve got some angle brackets that I could use to attach a pair of 12’ 2x4s to the main trusses spanning nearly the entire length. Ok yeah, I’ll try that and tie in some support brackets if it doesn’t seem rock solid.

Thanks for all the guidance folks!

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