Rubi springs and shocks on the Overland? Any info..

[Iowa Jeep]

New to the forum--longtime Jeep owner--covered the west in a CJ5--then two different CJ7s when I was much younger...had a TJ and a JK..now an Overland..
I want to put Rubi springs and shocks on it--any information would be helpful--

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[Mr._Bill]

New to the forum--longtime Jeep owner--covered the west in a CJ5--then two different CJ7s when I was much younger...had a TJ and a JK..now an Overland..
I want to put Rubi springs and shocks on it--any information would be helpful--

They will fit with no issues. It may change the ride somewhat. I have a set of Rubicon take-off shocks to go on my Overland. I hope to get them installed soon. If I eventually do a spring change, it will be Rubicon on the front and Max Tow on the rear.

 

[Buzzlb]

See The Overcon.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

New to the forum--longtime Jeep owner--covered the west in a CJ5--then two different CJ7s when I was much younger...had a TJ and a JK..now an Overland..
I want to put Rubi springs and shocks on it--any information would be helpful--

What information?
I put Rubicon "take-off" shocks on my Overland, Rubicon front springs under the front of my Overland and max tow springs under the rear to support my trailer when towing as the Overland springs sagged so badly under a load.

Be aware, and I'll say it again - "Rubicon springs" can cover a number of different spring combinations so what you get as results will vary. Some Rubicon springs are "more stout" than others because some Rubicons are heavier or have towing packages while other Rubicons are a bit lighter and may not have towing package, etc. so there can be a range of springs.
Just because George sees almost 1" of height gain up front doesn't mean Sam will if his Rubicon springs are the lighter ones and his Overland springs are the heavier Overland springs.

As far as swapping - I did it in my dirty dark garage with two floor jacks, two jack stands, a handful of tools and my Milwaukee 100,000,000 ft/pound cordless impact. Well, not QUITE that strong, but it's a mean thing at any rate. I used it to take things apart, then used it to run fasteners up to just touching, set the truck down and torqued things to final torque with a torque wrench.
My well-lit shop was FULL of other people's stuff to work on so I didn't have the advantage of good lighting, a smooth finished floor and my tools all being handy. My tools were in my shop 200' from my garage.

Seriously, this is about all it takes as far as hand tools. I used the bottle jack to move the rear axle down a bit to make spring swap back there easier. Otherwise I used two of my 4 floor jacks and two jack stands, a creeper, a rolling seat and a couple of cans of diet Coke.

It was a total waste of energy to carry all of those wrenches and sockets up to my garage - those on the floor were all that was needed.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

They will fit with no issues. It may change the ride somewhat. I have a set of Rubicon take-off shocks to go on my Overland. I hope to get them installed soon. If I eventually do a spring change, it will be Rubicon on the front and Max Tow on the rear.

Bring it over - we'll roll my Javelin out and get your JT in and get it done.

 

[Mr._Bill]

Bring it over - we'll roll my Javelin out and get your JT in and get it done.

If only you were a little closer...

 

[PyrPatriot]

I used the bottle jack to move the rear axle down a bit to make spring swap back there easier.

I am having a hard time understanding the moving the "rear axle down" part

 

[ShadowsPapa]

If only you were a little closer...

There's a fair number of folks on this forum I'd not mind meeting - you among them.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I am having a hard time understanding the moving the "rear axle down" part

Ah, ok - wheels off, shocks off, track bar disconnected, the bushings in the arms prevented the axle from dropping as far as needed to remove the springs (max tow springs are a tad shorter so not as hard to get them in place)
I needed a way to get the axle down a bit more against the links or arms - and I didn't want to loosen the bolts in the arms.
So, I used the bump stop flat spot on the axle as a shelf, set my bottle jack in place and made a piece to sit into the rubbber (or poly??) bump stops so I could avoid pushing on them.
The bottle jack moved the axle down just enough to swap springs.
The rear axle didn't on its own drop enough otherwise. Some guys (or ladies) may have loosened the link bolts to let it drop - that meant re-torqing those once the truck was on the ground.

 

[PyrPatriot]

Ah, ok - wheels off, shocks off, track bar disconnected, the bushings in the arms prevented the axle from dropping as far as needed to remove the springs (max tow springs are a tad shorter so not as hard to get them in place)
I needed a way to get the axle down a bit more against the links or arms - and I didn't want to loosen the bolts in the arms.
So, I used the bump stop flat spot on the axle as a shelf, set my bottle jack in place and made a piece to sit into the rubbber (or poly??) bump stops so I could avoid pushing on them.
The bottle jack moved the axle down just enough to swap springs.
The rear axle didn't on its own drop enough otherwise. Some guys (or ladies) may have loosened the link bolts to let it drop - that meant re-torqing those once the truck was on the ground.

Thank you. that is much clearer. I didn't think the extra clearance would be needed

 

[93civej1]

I did mine this past weekend on my max tow. Not hard by any means. The only thing I suggest is, if you take the track bar bolt at the axle out, have a good way to get the axle back over to get holes lined back up when you put it back in. When you take it out, the axle will move over on you and it was a bear for me to get it lined back up.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I did mine this past weekend on my max tow. Not hard by any means. The only thing I suggest is, if you take the track bar bolt at the axle out, have a good way to get the axle back over to get holes lined back up when you put it back in. When you take it out, the axle will move over on you and it was a bear for me to get it lined back up.

Good suggestion.
Have a small ratchet strap or a small come-along handy. You can use either of those to pull it back into alignment. It's pretty easy that way -oh, and a long tapered punch to help line the hole up once you get it really close with the strap or come-along.
Wish I had taken pictures.
Not hard, just takes more time if you are 25 pounds over-weight and can't lean forward like you used to.

 

[Iowa Jeep]

Bring it over - we'll roll my Javelin out and get your JT in and get it done.

thanks for the information--I didn't realize the difference in Rubi rear springs--maybe I need to get Max tow springs? Pulling an off road camper of some kind is the goal--

 

[Iowa Jeep]

There's a fair number of folks on this forum I'd not mind meeting - you among them.

We started the Iowa Jeep Show in Nevada which gave birth to the Iowa Jeep Club..my work has not allowed me much Jeep Club interaction over the last few years...but hoping to hit the retirement button in a year or so and planning on hitting the road . Trying to build this in preparation..

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