The Crusader
Well-Known Member
If all else fails. You can get wax specifically for black paint. It's tinted to fill in the scratches. I think you can get at just about any auto parts store.
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Scratches- help!
- Thread starter RavensEyeOffroad
- Start date
- Watchers 9
Gren71
Well-Known Member
This is really a thing!?
I have soooo many micro scratches all over the jt.
Wbrook24
Well-Known Member
Ya i have a black rubicon. I have had 3 or 4 black cars and none of them scratched as easy as this one. Especially the hood. As others have said an orbital with a cutting pad is probably your best bet. If thats not something you are comfortable with you will have to call a pro. Lots of mobile guys these days. Call around. Some will even just give you advice.
The Crusader
Well-Known Member
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JAVIERGONZO
Well-Known Member
In my opinion when it's on black paint go to a shop. The margin of error is to high on darker colors.
staying_tuned
Well-Known Member
I have a less dramatic scratch on my door that I've been holding off on until I can correct many more, usually I correct our vehicles once every 2-ish years, bringing back to new. This one being the first has annoyed me and your post prompted me to address it. This process took all of 10 minutes.
1. Clean area
2. Apply cutting compound to pad in dots (for this I'm using 2500, I recco 1k for yours given the severity). Spray a few squirts of soapy water on the pad for lubrication. I use luber but it's b/s admittedly : o ) When this runs out, I'll be back on soapy water.
3. Dab the pad around the area. With pad on surface, set to slowest speed to distribute the polish without slinging it all over the place. In my case I'm using extra polish, this is how much you should use for your scenario. For this particular scratch, half this would have done it.
4. Once spread out, bump your speed up. On my Griot's R/O, I don't go beyond 4.
5. Move up and down, apply a little pressure. If horizontal surface, nearly no pressure at all. Then move side to side, making sure you're laying previous line. When the polish goes from liquid to near dust, you're good.
6. Grab your microfiber and wipe off dust and/or remaining polish.
7. Repeat with 3500.
7. Wash again to get off any residual lube.
8. Admire your work, wash your pad in soapy warm water. If you rocked 3500, that section's finish will now be better looking than the factory's finish. Many folks take their new vehicles directly to correction for orange peel. Polish knocks it down.
Our clear is thick and hard, which is great. You can correct the same areas a few times and given the clears hardness, you'd have to REALLY deviate from the above or use garbage materials to mess something up.
The below is under $200 in gear. I run a Griot's 6" random orbital then menzerna polish. Many say menzerna is overpriced. I'd agree if I ran a detail shop. I don't and these itty bitty bottles will correct a few entire cars. Going through the above process over and over with inferior products is frustrating and not worth the 20% savings, were talking maybe $5. Get your gear and get after it. I personally feel like a super hero when correcting paint because I was so intimidated by it for decades. I've found it's also therapeutic. It's silly easy for scratches like yours and this example. When you have to correct malicious keying, you cross into potentially cutting too much (removing clear) and/or burning the paint. For that, I'd take it to a pro in a heartbeat but for all of the rest, DIY is the way.
Pics.
Notice how the reflection clears up as a side effect. This is the factory orange peel being knocked down as a beneficial side effect. On all vehicles not intended for off-road usage, I do the whole thing just to get the orange peel down. Then ceramic. Basically non-stick by the time that process is complete.
1. Clean area
2. Apply cutting compound to pad in dots (for this I'm using 2500, I recco 1k for yours given the severity). Spray a few squirts of soapy water on the pad for lubrication. I use luber but it's b/s admittedly : o ) When this runs out, I'll be back on soapy water.
3. Dab the pad around the area. With pad on surface, set to slowest speed to distribute the polish without slinging it all over the place. In my case I'm using extra polish, this is how much you should use for your scenario. For this particular scratch, half this would have done it.
4. Once spread out, bump your speed up. On my Griot's R/O, I don't go beyond 4.
5. Move up and down, apply a little pressure. If horizontal surface, nearly no pressure at all. Then move side to side, making sure you're laying previous line. When the polish goes from liquid to near dust, you're good.
6. Grab your microfiber and wipe off dust and/or remaining polish.
7. Repeat with 3500.
7. Wash again to get off any residual lube.
8. Admire your work, wash your pad in soapy warm water. If you rocked 3500, that section's finish will now be better looking than the factory's finish. Many folks take their new vehicles directly to correction for orange peel. Polish knocks it down.
Our clear is thick and hard, which is great. You can correct the same areas a few times and given the clears hardness, you'd have to REALLY deviate from the above or use garbage materials to mess something up.
The below is under $200 in gear. I run a Griot's 6" random orbital then menzerna polish. Many say menzerna is overpriced. I'd agree if I ran a detail shop. I don't and these itty bitty bottles will correct a few entire cars. Going through the above process over and over with inferior products is frustrating and not worth the 20% savings, were talking maybe $5. Get your gear and get after it. I personally feel like a super hero when correcting paint because I was so intimidated by it for decades. I've found it's also therapeutic. It's silly easy for scratches like yours and this example. When you have to correct malicious keying, you cross into potentially cutting too much (removing clear) and/or burning the paint. For that, I'd take it to a pro in a heartbeat but for all of the rest, DIY is the way.
Pics.
Notice how the reflection clears up as a side effect. This is the factory orange peel being knocked down as a beneficial side effect. On all vehicles not intended for off-road usage, I do the whole thing just to get the orange peel down. Then ceramic. Basically non-stick by the time that process is complete.
Last edited:
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RavensEyeOffroad
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #24
youre hired! :DI have a less dramatic scratch on my door that I've been holding off on until I can correct many more, usually I correct our vehicles once every 2-ish years, bringing back to new. This one being the first has annoyed me and your post prompted me to address it. This process took all of 10 minutes.
1. Clean area
2. Apply cutting compound to pad in dots (for this I'm using 2500, I recco 1k for yours given the severity). Spray a few squirts of soapy water on the pad for lubrication. I use luber but it's b/s admittedly : o ) When this runs out, I'll be back on soapy water.
3. Dab the pad around the area. With pad on surface, set to slowest speed to distribute the polish without slinging it all over the place. In my case I'm using extra polish, this is how much you should use for your scenario. For this particular scratch, half this would have done it.
4. Once spread out, bump your speed up. On my Griot's R/O, I don't go beyond 4.
5. Move up and down, apply a little pressure. If horizontal surface, nearly no pressure at all. Then move side to side, making sure you're laying previous line. When the polish goes from liquid to near dust, you're good.
6. Grab your microfiber and wipe off dust and/or remaining polish.
7. Repeat with 3500.
7. Wash again to get off any residual lube.
8. Admire your work, wash your pad in soapy warm water. If you rocked 3500, that section's finish will now be better looking than the factory's finish. Many folks take their new vehicles directly to correction for orange peel. Polish knocks it down.
Our clear is thick and hard, which is great. You can correct the same areas a few times and given the clears hardness, you'd have to REALLY deviate from the above or use garbage materials to mess something up.
The below is under $200 in gear. I run a Griot's 6" random orbital then menzerna polish. Many say menzerna is overpriced. I'd agree if I ran a detail shop. I don't and these itty bitty bottles will correct a few entire cars. Going through the above process over and over with inferior products is frustrating and not worth the 20% savings, were talking maybe $5. Get your gear and get after it. I personally feel like a super hero when correcting paint because I was so intimidated by it for decades. I've found it's also therapeutic. It's silly easy for scratches like yours and this example. When you have to correct malicious keying, you cross into potentially cutting too much (removing clear) and/or burning the paint. For that, I'd take it to a pro in a heartbeat but for all of the rest, DIY is the way.
Pics.
Notice how the reflection clears up as a side effect. This is the factory orange peel being knocked down as a beneficial side effect. On all vehicles not intended for off-road usage, I do the whole thing just to get the orange peel down. Then ceramic. Basically non-stick by the time that process is complete.
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