'Service Shifter' error

[madduck]

2020 Gladiator, gas eng.

Replaced the main batt. Aux needs to be replaced but i'm selling it and would really prefer not to.
After the replacement I get the 'Service Shifter' message. I've made sure the fuse box is seated. I've read about the shifting harness possibly rubbing on, something, i've found the threads w/ the pics so I'll check that.
The jeep starts fine however on the shift column the 'PRND' lights do not illuminate. I know that is telling me something significant but do now know what.

The code I'm getting is U1267. The code reader says there are 2 code, the same number. I am unable to clear them with the reader. I'm aware that is no data from the ESM on the CAN per engine-codes webpage. Hopefully fiddling with the shift hardness will take care of this...but i'm not too confident.

With a new main, and an aux that needs to be replaced, could/would that cause a problem with the system?

Also, is there a way to get this into 'N'?

Thanks for your time to get this far, and thank you for any additional guidance.

Cheers, j-

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[Mr._Bill]

You need to either replace or disconnect the Aux Battery. Having a failing battery paralleled in with the good one is just asking for trouble.

Check the wiring harnesses, connectors, and all the fuses and relays. Test the high current fuse array on the side of the fuse box. Those blow if you are not careful changing the batteries.

 

[madduck]

Thank you for this info. I had not come across anything addressing the high current fuse array! I’ll get to googling this.

Thank you and Cheers,
j-

 

[Maximus Gladius]

Also, is there a way to get this into 'N'?

Short answer, yes. Long answer, yeeeeeeeeees.
watch this!

 

[madduck]

Maximus...thank you!
This darn thing is in the front of the house, the garage is in the back. Getting it back there will be a huge help!

Mr Bill...I did the research on the high current fuse array and will be calling around for one of those things tomorrow. Thanks much for this intel.

Now, can i just not re-connect the neg aux batt cable to remove it from the loop, for now? One thing at a tlme...if i can.

Thanks all for the help here. This is one of the things i do *like* about technology, helping people help each other.

Thank you for your continuted help.

Cheers, j-

 

[Mr._Bill]

Leave the Aux Battery negative cable disconnected and it will remove it from the system. Be sure to isolate the end of the cable so it doesn't make contact with anything. You will get the red A error light since the Aux Battery will fail the startup test. Pulling the F42 fuse will get rid of that, by forcing the test to look at the Main Battery.

Whenever the truck has a full power loss, it can take up to 24 hours and several power cycles for everything to return to normal.

 

[madduck]

Man, the 'tech' in vehicles is just ridiculous these days.
I watched a couple vids on this thing. In the vids, when stopping them to copy the part number, 150A is stamped on the metal bracket that i believe is OEM. This is what i find on the O'Reilly site, one is 60A the other is 100A.
Is this a dealer part only? To get the correct amp protection?

Thanks again for the help.

I just wanted to change my freakin' battery!

 

[madduck]

Ok...what i have found out.
This pic is from this vid...

From the right, the third fuse is 60A. There is another block out there that has that protection at 100A.
Since this dude pulled this off his jeep in the vid i ordered the 60A, this is what was confusing me when looking at the parts.

From the O'Reilly page i was able to look at a couple of different thumbnails, and zoom in to look for diffeences. The below pic shows the protection from the right is: 300, 125, 100

So, the part number for what we need, I believe, is:
Dorman 956-600
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...ive-truck-2020-jeep-gladiator?q=956-600&pos=0

Then I looked on Amazon, here is another link:
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-956-6...&sprefix=doorman+956-600,aps,208&sr=8-1-fkmr0

Disclaimer: I am half Polish and am not getting paid for this info, so take it for what it is worth. Which is not much. Hopefully this helps others the way others have been helping me.
With my luck this will not cure my problem, but I'm trying. I'll update as things progress.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

Man, the 'tech' in vehicles is just ridiculous these days.
I watched a couple vids on this thing. In the vids, when stopping them to copy the part number, 150A is stamped on the metal bracket that i believe is OEM. This is what i find on the O'Reilly site, one is 60A the other is 100A.
Is this a dealer part only? To get the correct amp protection?

Thanks again for the help.

I just wanted to change my freakin' battery!

Two things I keep in my glove box, 1. Z fuse array and; 2. Can Bus star connector block that sits behind the glove box.

I’ve seen your “shifter” dash warning because of water ingress into the transmission control module (TCM Connector) which is located right behind the passenger front wheel, just left of the AUX battery, accessing through the wheel well liner. Maybe at some point you splashed around on some trail and that connector went under water and now that water/corrosion made its way into the connector and locked up the shifter electronics.

If you’ve ever taken off your doors then you’re obviously not afraid to separate that big ass connector. That’s what the TCM looks like and connection functions the same. I would pull off that passenger tire, undo some clips and fold the liner toward the brake caliper and clean up the TCM, then gently work the white lever back and forth till you get good separation, then pull apart. Inspect the pins for corrosion and such. Have an electrical spray like DeoxIt shield to clean and lube the pins and reinstall.

There are several reasons we can get that code and it’s not always the AUX (though it is widely hated) That dash warning is electrical related, mostly, notwithstanding a serious mechanical failure.

The two pics with part #s is the Z fuse array and the other is the can bus star connector.

 

[madduck]

Yeah, what you're posting here is a common fault that I knew, for the most part, was not my prob. (hoping and praying a bit that it wasn't. still not sure yet.) The Jeep drove just fine until it would not start on Christmas day, of course. I changed the battery on the 26th, it started up, I didnt drive anywhere so I didnt see the error code and thought i'm good to go.
On the 27th when i tried to drive it is when i learned there was more to the story. The majority of the articles addressed the water issue, connector, wiring harness, that you're talking about. I jiggled them, thinking there was no way they were disturbed during the batt change...but who knows any more!

Not until Mr Bill mentioned the fuse array did i know that that thing existed. Which, I've learned at lot, and knowledge is good, so there is a silver lining.

But, I am selling after the 1st of the yr. I'm not using it as it's meant to be. The wife and I drive to SW CO as much as we can and the long trips, 8 hrs, is exhausting for us. We're old now. Prob trading in for a Ranger Raptor. We can carry our bikes on a hitch. I'll put a shell on it with luggage bars in case I need to put a pod up top. The last road trip we did we had 3 bikes, two on the racks and one inside, so we do carry 'stuff'. I'm the cyclist and getting older i'm realizing if there is a ride i want to do i better get it in, ASAP. I'm a few yrs from 60 and my ability to do the tougher ones is waning.

I'm hoping I dont have to change the AUX batt to get this up and running. I've a Tazer on it so the start/stop thing is disabled.

I'll keep updating as things progress so hopefully this helps others.

Thanks!

Chees, j-

 

[madduck]

ok...let's update.
Got the fuse array. I ordered the 60A, mine is the 100A. This is typical. I've got the heart and I'll put in the effort yet still mess something up. But I digress. I went ahead and installed the 60A, I'll see how this goes, my primary goal is to get this thing into gear.
I did disconnect the ground to the AUX and I pulled F42. Thank you Mr Bill.
Once it was all together it started right up but the CEL is still illuminated. I grabbed my good 'ole code reader and it says there are no codes, yet the CEL is indeed on.

The Jeep went into gear. I'm about to go for a test drive, not too far tho, i dont trust my work!


From what Mr Bill said I am hoping that after a few power cycles the CEL will extinguish.

Also, in the vid i will attach at the end, it will show how to test the array. I hate, hate, HATE, electrical stuff. Electrons are demons and a product of the devil. The vid shows how to test for which fuse is bad. I tested the array I pulled, all tested good.

My questions: could/would using the 60A vs 100A array cause the CEL to stay on?

And again, I cannot thank you guys enough for input to help me trouble shoot this issue. Thank you very much for your time. I'll keep this updated w/ what transpires. I am probably going to order the 100A and replace this 60A. It is what came w/ the Jeep and may, or may not, affect the operation. It is a very easy part to replace.

Cheers, j-

 

[madduck]

Went for a short drive down the street and back.

CEL still illuminated, getting a U1267 code.

Also, prior to this adventure, my ESS lite was illuminated due to the AUX needing to be replaced. Since pulling the neg cable and fuse I'll guess that is what got rid of that idiot light.

Cheers, j-

 

[madduck]

ok, after 4 power cycles the CEL went out. Seems to be back to normal.


For now.

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