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Someone please explain this to me

JTpoor

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So, I just put a 1 1/2" Daystar Leveling Kit on my Gladiator and then put on 37" BFG KO2's. Fitment is OK and had to do a little trimming on the front bumper extensions or "closure panels" as they're technically called. Here's my conundrum. Daystar has a completely different kit for a 2" lift with new control arms, longer links, etc that sells for $390ish than it does for the 1 1/2" leveling kit that goes for $90ish. Do you mean to tell me that the 1/2" higher lift actually means longer links, longer control arms, etc, not to mention the price difference. We're talking half of the width of my thumb. Please explain.....

Edit: Wanted to add that I did buy the Daystar 3/4" rear spacers for $40 so my "lift" will come in at $130. I know the 2" Daystar has the rears included in the package.

Jeep Gladiator Someone please explain this to me IMG_7248 (002)
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Renegade

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So, I just put a 1 1/2" Daystar Leveling Kit on my Gladiator and then put on 37" BFG KO2's. Fitment is OK and had to do a little trimming on the front bumper extensions or "closure panels" as they're technically called. Here's my conundrum. Daystar has a completely different kit for a 2" lift with new control arms, longer links, etc that sells for $390ish than it does for the 1 1/2" leveling kit that goes for $90ish. Do you mean to tell me that the 1/2" higher lift actually means longer links, longer control arms, etc, not to mention the price difference. We're talking half of the width of my thumb. Please explain.....

Edit: Wanted to add that I did buy the Daystar 3/4" rear spacers for $40 so my "lift" will come in at $130. I know the 2" Daystar has the rears included in the package.

IMG_7248 (002).webp
The 2" kit actually lifts the front 2", and the rear 1.5". The new front control arms are 1/4" longer to account for caster correction. In general, it is believed that 2" is the point where castor correction becomes necessary rather than optional. The kit also comes with front and rear shock extensions, and front and rear sway bar links. Here's what you should know about that kit: The poly spacers and shock extensions are great. The sway bar link steel sleeves are crap, and collapse when torqued properly (The easy fix for this is $20 worth of solid sleeves from Lowe's). The sway bar link bushings require frequent greasing to prevent typical squeaking. The polyurethane bushings in the control arms are crap, and wear out quickly. If you can get the entire kit for $300 shipped (which I did), it's not bad for the money, but plan to upgrade properly over time.
 
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JTpoor

JTpoor

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Thanks for the info Renegade. I’ve read on these forums that stock Rubicon front springs are a bit more stiff and basically compress an inch less than the sport springs thereby netting about +1” in the front w a simple swap. Think I may go that route along w my current 1 1/2” leveling kit and see what happens. Going to keep my Max Tow rear springs though and use the 3/4” rear spacer and see where I end up.
 

Renegade

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Thanks for the info Renegade. I’ve read on these forums that stock Rubicon front springs are a bit more stiff and basically compress an inch less than the sport springs thereby netting about +1” in the front w a simple swap. Think I may go that route along w my current 1 1/2” leveling kit and see what happens. Going to keep my Max Tow rear springs though and use the 3/4” rear spacer and see where I end up.
The control arms from the 2” Mopar lift are a quick and easy way to get your caster back in if desired. They can be ordered for only $60 a set, are maintenance free, and 1/4” longer than stock. Have fun!
 

Gren71

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The control arms from the 2” Mopar lift are a quick and easy way to get your caster back in if desired. They can be ordered for only $60 a set, are maintenance free, and 1/4” longer than stock. Have fun!
Where can you order them?! I’ve been looking and can’t seem to find them as a separate component
 

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kelkolb

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