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SPINNING RIVNUT / JACK NUT - RADIATOR SUPPORT - HEADLIGHTS - JEEP GLADIATOR

Ashr

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Hi, I'm new to this forum. I was trying to change the headlight bulbs but top left screw (on the passenger side) keeps spinning! :facepalm: it is mounted on the radiator support! Any advice would be much appreciated.
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Kevin_D

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Any chance you can post up a picture of exactly where the screw is?
 

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Hi, I'm new to this forum. I was trying to change the headlight bulbs but I messed up! :facepalm: top left screw (on the passenger side) keeps spinning! it is mounted on the radiator support! Any advice would be much appreciated.
A picture would give us a idea of what your speaking of.
 
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Ashr

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Any chance you can post up a picture of exactly where the screw is?
Thanks for your reply, I have uploaded two pictures. I cant unscrew, top left screw (on the passenger side) keeps spinning! I used a flat screw driver to put a little outward pressure on the screw head and I broke the Headlight! Please see below pictures:

Jeep Gladiator SPINNING RIVNUT / JACK NUT - RADIATOR SUPPORT - HEADLIGHTS - JEEP GLADIATOR photo_2020-12-18_06-57-44 copy

Jeep Gladiator SPINNING RIVNUT / JACK NUT - RADIATOR SUPPORT - HEADLIGHTS - JEEP GLADIATOR photo_2020-12-18_06-58-08
 

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Try taking out the other two bolts. Then you should be able to pull out from bottom and slide off the top left bolt. Disconnect wiring harness and set aside.

Then you should be able to apply pressure to back side of bolt head flange as you back the bolt out.

Probably going to have get the next size bigger bolt and a fender washer that will fit in the cavity that the bolt head sits in.

That is probably a self tapping bolt, or the captured nut on the backside is no longer captured.
 

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Try taking out the other two bolts. Then you should be able to pull out from bottom and slide off the top left bolt. Disconnect wiring harness and set aside.

Then you should be able to apply pressure to back side of bolt head flange as you back the bolt out.

Probably going to have get the next size bigger bolt and a fender washer that will fit in the cavity that the bolt head sits in.

That is probably a self tapping bolt, or the captured nut on the backside is no longer captured.
This and as far as the headlight goes, buy a little JB Weld and apply it to the part that's broken, let it dry and harden and then reinstall it. I did the same thing to my JK headlight housing and that's how I fixed it and had no issues over the next 4yrs with it like that.
 
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Ashr

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Try taking out the other two bolts. Then you should be able to pull out from bottom and slide off the top left bolt. Disconnect wiring harness and set aside.

Then you should be able to apply pressure to back side of bolt head flange as you back the bolt out.

Probably going to have get the next size bigger bolt and a fender washer that will fit in the cavity that the bolt head sits in.

That is probably a self tapping bolt, or the captured nut on the backside is no longer captured.
Thanks, going to try again in the evening. I was worried if I have to replace the radiator support as it is mounted on the radiator support!!
 

kevman65

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Thanks, going to try again in the evening. I was worried if I have to replace the radiator support as it is mounted on the radiator support!!

No, you shouldn't.
I haven't had my grill off yet, so don't know how that bolt threads, whether it's a self tapper in the sheet metal or if you have a captured nut that has broken free.

If it's a self tapper, next size bigger and you're good to go.

If it's a captured nut then as Jamie said, JB weld on the nut and radiator support or nut bracket, whatever is there.
 
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Ashr

Ashr

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No, you shouldn't.
I haven't had my grill off yet, so don't know how that bolt threads, whether it's a self tapper in the sheet metal or if you have a captured nut that has broken free.

If it's a self tapper, next size bigger and you're good to go.

If it's a captured nut then as Jamie said, JB weld on the nut and radiator support or nut bracket, whatever is there.
Just to give an update. I took my car to an authorized dealership in North Richland Hills, TX and they said that screw is part of the radiator support and they wanted to charge approximately $2,000 to fix it! This is a new Jeep Gladiator, I am confident this screw was faulty but they did not believe me! I am going to try what you guys told me, I am a bit disappointed I didn’t do it...
 

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Just to give an update. I took my car to an authorized dealership in North Richland Hills, TX and they said that screw is part of the radiator support and they wanted to charge approximately $2,000 to fix it! This is a new Jeep Gladiator, I am confident this screw was faulty but they did not believe me! I am going to try what you guys told me, I am a bit disappointed I didn’t do it...
I'd tell them it's a warranty issue.....
 

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Just to give an update. I took my car to an authorized dealership in North Richland Hills, TX and they said that screw is part of the radiator support and they wanted to charge approximately $2,000 to fix it! This is a new Jeep Gladiator, I am confident this screw was faulty but they did not believe me! I am going to try what you guys told me, I am a bit disappointed I didn’t do it...
Umm $2k ........ No way I ever go back there again.
 
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Umm $2k ........ No way I ever go back there again.
yes $2k ! and I did not do it, the screw was already spinning! They say I need to replace 68292503AC (Radiator support). I made a mistake to try to pull it out otherwise they would believe me! I'm going to contact Jeep customer care tomorrow.
 

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Just wanted to validate because I was 99% sure it was a rivnut. You can see it in the video here.

So here's the shitty part... it's a rivnut that is likely spinning inside the radiator support. If you can't grab it from the back (likely not because I'm almost certain that support is a tube but you might be able to jam i tup from the end), you'll have to cut the bolt out then drill out the rivnut, then insert a new one to secure the headlight. A dealership will not do this at any reasonable rate if at all.

68292503AC is the complete radiator support and MSRP is $610. On top of that you'd have paint (knowing dealerships... at least a few hundred) plus shop labor so while $2k is probably high, it's also not entirely as unreasonable as it sounds at face value given you are literally replacing the full front of the truck and they'd have to extract a bolt before doing so.

edit: you actually might be able to pin the rivnut to the support and remove the screw... try jamming a metal forked trim tool between the light tab and support and if you can get on top of the rivnut lip, you might be able to create enough friction that the bolt will come out.
 
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Ashr

Ashr

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Just wanted to validate because I was 99% sure it was a rivnut. You can see it in the video here.

So here's the shitty part... it's a rivnut that is likely spinning inside the radiator support. If you can't grab it from the back (likely not because I'm almost certain that support is a tube but you might be able to jam i tup from the end), you'll have to cut the bolt out then drill out the rivnut, then insert a new one to secure the headlight. A dealership will not do this at any reasonable rate if at all.

68292503AC is the complete radiator support and MSRP is $610. On top of that you'd have paint (knowing dealerships... at least a few hundred) plus shop labor so while $2k is probably high, it's also not entirely as unreasonable as it sounds at face value given you are literally replacing the full front of the truck and they'd have to extract a bolt before doing so.

edit: you actually might be able to pin the rivnut to the support and remove the screw... try jamming a metal forked trim tool between the light tab and support and if you can get on top of the rivnut lip, you might be able to create enough friction that the bolt will come out.
you are absolutely correct, it was a rivnut and the dealership said they charge $400 to replace the rivnut!!
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