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Sting-Gray manual JTR build - Clayton 3.5", Falcon Adjustable shocks, Warn Winch, Rock Slide Engineering steps, etc...

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hjdca

hjdca

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Here are a couple of Rock Garden Runs at the "Badge of Honor", Holcomb Creek Trail with the Stick Shift in granny gear, 12 psi, sway bar disconnected, and only the rear locker on. Never used the clutch except for once.. Just used the brake and gas the whole way -- taking care not to stall it. I only took a few small hits on my armor -- control arm skids, diff skids, hitch skid, slider. I got good grip at 12 psi and keeping the momentum going with the manual helps a lot. I had a great spotter - thanks "Adventure 4 Wheel".

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Orange01z28

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I saw back on the first page you have your SAFE-T-JACK ammo can in the bed, do you leave it there always or just when you go wheeling?

I keep mine under the seat but i'd like to reclaim some of that space
 
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I saw back on the first page you have your SAFE-T-JACK ammo can in the bed, do you leave it there always or just when you go wheeling?

I keep mine under the seat but i'd like to reclaim some of that space
The "General" is safely strapped to my molle panels in the bed full-time. I use a ratchet strap to immobilize it, so, if I need a ratchet strap on the trail, ie. to tie up the suspension, I have a few in service on my molle panels -- dual use. I also use another ratchet strap to immobilize my Viair portable air compressor. It is the black bag right next to the SAFE-T-JACK.

I live near the forest and lots of trails, so, my truck is setup for immediate 4 wheeling --- ie. no packing required for a day trip --- and we still use the bed for hauling stuff, so, the molle panels are the best compromise for me.
 

Orange01z28

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The "General" is safely strapped to my molle panels in the bed full-time. I use a ratchet strap to immobilize it, so, if I need a ratchet strap on the trail, ie. to tie up the suspension, I have a few in service on my molle panels -- dual use. I also use another ratchet strap to immobilize my Viair portable air compressor. It is the black bag right next to the SAFE-T-JACK.

I live near the forest and lots of trails, so, my truck is setup for immediate 4 wheeling --- ie. no packing required for a day trip --- and we still use the bed for hauling stuff, so, the molle panels are the best compromise for me.
And it's ok in the weather? Or do you park inside?

I like your setup man, that's why i'm asking all the questions
 
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hjdca

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And it's ok in the weather? Or do you park inside?

I like your setup man, that's why i'm asking all the questions
I live in a dry climate, Southern California Mountains... I park outside. I have a Rugged Ridge folding hard tonneau cover and it keeps the water out. You may get some surface rust on your tools if you are in a damp climate. I have got some tool surface rust in the heavy downpours this year. Note: I do not use any of the leather pouches on my tools to avoid damp leather touching bare steel.
 

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Orange01z28

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I live in a dry climate, Southern California Mountains... I park outside. I have a Rugged Ridge folding hard tonneau cover and it keeps the water out. You may get some surface rust on your tools if you are in a damp climate. I have got some tool surface rust in the heavy downpours this year. Note: I do not use any of the leather pouches on my tools to avoid damp leather touching bare steel.
I too live in a dry climate....

This is good to know, thanks

Jeep Gladiator Sting-Gray manual JTR build - Clayton 3.5", Falcon Adjustable shocks, Warn Winch, Rock Slide Engineering steps, etc... IMG_6753.JPG
 

bakobobby

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Just out of curiosity why did you need a new drive shaft. Is that what’s needed for the Clayton lift. I’m running a Frankenstein 3.5 lift I’m piecing together of all different parts I liked from different lifts but I haven’t had any issues with the drive lines.
Believe its anything greater than 28.85 for shock extension you would want to upgrade the driveshaft. On that note the falcon shocks come in just barely under that number.
 

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Most Lift companies including Clayton recommend changing the front drive shaft with 3.5" lift or more if you plan to do 4wheeling where you will fully articulate the suspension, like rock crawling.. - somewhere around plus 28" of shock travel up front.
Dana/Spicer 5:13 gears, shop installed, was already in my plans, so, I could more easily justify adding the Adams front driveshaft to their efforts.
I did a lot of research on this specific issue while building my setup. Good (?) news is Falcons are limited just at the cusp of drive shaft issues up front. You can skip an aftermarket drive shaft in their case, although you may find the front drive shaft won't hold up to abuse if you go hard. Other shocks like those of Metalcloak have more total extension up front and will definitely require a driveshaft upgrade or other mods but will get you a good deal more extension.

EDIT: :facepalm: guess I already had been through your thread lol. Sorry for the broken record. Love your rig guessing we'll cross paths someday I'm up in Frazier and thereabouts now and then.
 

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Rad Jeep! Hey, what did you use the Warn power isolator for? I had Rebel Off Road install mine with the intention of using it as a child-proof switch so that nobody messes with the Winch. They called Warn and heard that they don't recommend wiring it up to the in-cab Aux switches, but to use the included switch. They ended up mounting the switch under the hood. I'm curious if you had something similar in mind...
 
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Rad Jeep! Hey, what did you use the Warn power isolator for? I had Rebel Off Road install mine with the intention of using it as a child-proof switch so that nobody messes with the Winch. They called Warn and heard that they don't recommend wiring it up to the in-cab Aux switches, but to use the included switch. They ended up mounting the switch under the hood. I'm curious if you had something similar in mind...
The reason for the Warn power isolator is to avoid pumping all that juice into that huge winch power cable during street driving. An accident that cuts the cable can cause a fire etc... So, I use the isolator to switch on the power to the big cable that goes to the winch. You can use one of the low power jeep aux switches to turn on the isolator from your cab.
 

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Here is our latest "Badge of Honor" John Bull Trail run. We just finished the Big Bear Trifecta - Gold Mountain, Holcomb Creek Trail, John Bull Trail. I do feel a sense of accomplishment.



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Jeep Gladiator Sting-Gray manual JTR build - Clayton 3.5", Falcon Adjustable shocks, Warn Winch, Rock Slide Engineering steps, etc... oEoidU
 
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New Update. We did the Rubicon Trail last June. It was a great trip. I was super glad to have all my armor. I bent my rear end links again, so, I went with the Rock Jock Anti-rock sway bar. For me, it's great. Totally solved the issue.

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At Miller Jeep trail, I got hung up on a big rock that broke when I climbed it and it got stuck on the side of my driveshaft. That tore up my boot and removed the driveshaft balance weights. I got lucky and found an inexpensive take off driveshaft to replace it. I have also taken some hits on my mufflers. Otherwise, my armor has worked great and taken plenty of hits. I have been re-spraying my armor with black after every hard trip to keep it from having rust spots.

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