Track Bar Bolts

[ospreyfe55]

So I’ve dealt with this before on a TJ and recently seen this talked about on FB. With most people using aftermarket Track Bars, the factory bolts are metric and most reputable TBs are American made and spec’d to SAE bolts. With that said
my recommendation for anyone is to get rid of those factory bolts in the trackbar and get grade 8 9/16”x3” bolts, washers and lock nuts. I had a lot of play in my track bar and swapped out the hardware. It made a noticeable difference in firming up the front end and was the cause of a steering shimmy.
For reference here are my measurements -
MC trackbar sleeve measured .5640” / 14.33mm. Factory bolt is .5440” / 13.82mm, Factory TB is .5580 / 14.18mm and 9/16” bolt is .5625” / 14.29mm.

Even changing the hardware to 9/16” will also benefit the OEM TB. Here is the list of hardware that I got from a local ACE as Lowes did not have the lock nuts.
Front Track Bar Bolts

9/16 x 3” Course Thread

2ea @ 3.19 (Bolts)
4ea @ .75 (Washers)
2ea @ .69 (Lock Nuts)

Total $11.52

Sponsored

 

[HoustonGobi]

I think I am going to be doing this on our JT and JK. I have now re-torqued the track bar bolts 3 times in 34k miles on the JT. Maybe this will get rid of the slop and keep them tight.

 

[Gren71]

I think I am going to be doing this on our JT and JK. I have now re-torqued the track bar bolts 3 times in 34k miles on the JT. Maybe this will get rid of the slop and keep them tight.

What are the torque specs for them? I got the grade 8 bolts but don’t remember what i need them set to

 

[HoustonGobi]

I don't remember off hand. There is a post somewhere on here that I have to look up every time.

 

[Gren71]

I don't remember off hand. There is a post somewhere on here that I have to look up every time.

I just recently realized you can bookmark specific posts. Ive been trying to do it for useful info like that. Ill search torque specs when i get some time, but if you find em i wont complain haha

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Just remember - it's the torque that creates the clamping force that holds things in place, not the bolt shank. If a larger diameter bolt is a "resolution" then the clamping force was never good enough so the part was moving over against the bolt shank. If it's clamped the bolt could be a bit smaller and it still wouldn't move.
In other words, if the holes on an example part are 1/2" but you use 7/16" bolts and the torque is great enough to clamp the parts making them act as one, it should not move simply because the clamping forces prevent movement.
One shouldn't need to rely on the bolt shank to hold things from moving..........IF things are moving against the bolt shank, they'll eventually wear the holes, then the bolt shank, and wear where the parts meet.

 

[ospreyfe55]

Here are the correct torque

Just remember - it's the torque that creates the clamping force that holds things in place, not the bolt shank. If a larger diameter bolt is a "resolution" then the clamping force was never good enough so the part was moving over against the bolt shank. If it's clamped the bolt could be a bit smaller and it still wouldn't move.
In other words, if the holes on an example part are 1/2" but you use 7/16" bolts and the torque is great enough to clamp the parts making them act as one, it should not move simply because the clamping forces prevent movement.
One shouldn't need to rely on the bolt shank to hold things from moving..........IF things are moving against the bolt shank, they'll eventually wear the holes, then the bolt shank, and wear where the parts meet.

Here are the correct torques. The track bar torque is 110 but with grade 8 9/16 the torque for those is 135ftlb.

Sponsored