Track Bar Bolts

[GladLad]

Easy enough to take a hack saw and make it the length you want.

Thanks. I don't think I have a hacksaw blade I'd take a Grade 8 bolt with, it's very hard metal.

I'll use an angle grinder with a cutting wheel, clean it a little with a flap disc, then set the threads with a spare nut I'll put on ahead of time. Little touch of paint at the end, and fluid film after reinstall.

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[Zachattack50]

I ended up plating my track bar mount as the mopar full thread bolt wallowed out the original hole. If you have movement on those bolt threads its not the bracket flexing (unless you have cracks in it) its the bolt moving in the hole. I used grimm offloads bolt kit, which has a full shank though both sides of the bracket. It cleared my original coil bucket fine, and it now clears with the raised currier high steer kit fine. That kit came with the control arm hardware as well which I replaced pre-emptively.

 

[GladLad]

I ended up plating my track bar mount as the mopar full thread bolt wallowed out the original hole. If you have movement on those bolt threads its not the bracket flexing (unless you have cracks in it) its the bolt moving in the hole. I used grimm offloads bolt kit, which has a full shank though both sides of the bracket. It cleared my original coil bucket fine, and it now clears with the raised currier high steer kit fine. That kit came with the control arm hardware as well which I replaced pre-emptively.

Maybe, but it was so close to begin with that I think assembly flex could be reasonable too. That said, I'm not going to take a laser to it to verify how perfectly round the hole is, so who knows. They definitely weren't oval, but your theory is exactly why I upgraded to 9/16" hardware while upgrading the trackbar. Tighter fit, more shoulder, higher torque.

Ended up cutting about 1/2" off the bolt and re-installed. Plenty of room now.

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