Track Bar Factory Torque Spec Please, Thanks!!!

[ShadowsPapa]

It's so easy to use torque + degrees, I don't understand the wanting of a conversion.
Torque it to the spec, mark the bolt and turn another xx degrees.
Where's the trouble?
360 degrees in one complete turn, a hex head bolt has 6 sides and 6 points.
So if you turn it so you move the bolt head so it moves exactly 1 point, you have moved it 60 degrees.
If a spec is xx plus 155 degrees, you turn the bolt 2.5 points.
If a point is straight up at 12:00, then you mark that point, turn the bolt so you move 2 points past 12:00 so the next flat is straight up past the 2 points.

I've found the MOPAR lift kit numbers are often quite a bit off from tech authority specs.

But then Zach's idea holds a whole lot of water, too..........

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[RK Racing]

It's so easy to use torque + degrees, I don't understand the wanting of a conversion.
Torque it to the spec, mark the bolt and turn another xx degrees.
Where's the trouble?
360 degrees in one complete turn, a hex head bolt has 6 sides and 6 points.
So if you turn it so you move the bolt head so it moves exactly 1 point, you have moved it 60 degrees.
If a spec is xx plus 155 degrees, you turn the bolt 2.5 points.
If a point is straight up at 12:00, then you mark that point, turn the bolt so you move 2 points past 12:00 so the next flat is straight up past the 2 points.

I've found the MOPAR lift kit numbers are often quite a bit off from tech authority specs.

But then Zach's idea holds a whole lot of water, too..........

Thank you again Mr. S. Papa. I had this all figured out six months ago, but completely forgot about it. Thank you again for pointing out the simplicity of it.

 

[kevman65]

You've already hit the first part of proper torque, tighten until it breaks, now back off 1/4 turn and you're good to go.

 

[fourfa]

Thinking of going to the hardware store tomorrow and getting a black metric bolt

Looks like the original problem is solved, so this is more FYI: black oxide bolts have no business holding torque anywhere that's exposed to weather. Typically they're soft (so if you stick to Grade 8 SAE or 10.9+ metric, you won't find one anyway) but as soon as they get wet they start to rust, and by the time you go to remove it, odds are the threads will be welded in place and the head will turn to dust.

And if we're bring technical, that factory spec 110 ft-lbs will be assuming a dry zinc-plated 10.9 metric fine-thread bolt. Switch to coarse bolts and TECHNICALLY you'd need to adjust torque upward to get the same bolt tension. (Same as you'd adjust downward if you added anti-seize or loctite, or switched to some other coating with a lower coefficient of friction). But back in the real world... 110 is likely to work just fine on Grade 8 coarse for the track bar. Do be kind to yourself and check it again after driving for a week though.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

You've already hit the first part of proper torque, tighten until it breaks, now back off 1/4 turn and you're good to go.

Hey, that's how i do the body bolts. So, it wasn't a mistake??

 

[kevman65]

Hey, that's how i do the body bolts. So, it wasn't a mistake??

It would be nice if instead of Lb-Ft they would express it in amount of bolt stretch.
But then people would have to buy another expensive tool that only has one function.

Let the debate begin

 

[ShadowsPapa]

so this is more FYI: black oxide bolts have no business holding torque anywhere that's exposed to weather.

They are black, but beings that I do plating and oxide coatings, I suspect they aren't the black oxide you are referring to.

I go back to @Zachanadandy idea, any major mods, tires larger than 35", off-roading with any real pressure on things and so on - you improve the parts, why not the bolts?
The bolts are just as important as the trackbar, tie rod and so on, and if you increase the stresses much over stock, well.........

When I have my snow plow on, and moving slowly, even MINE turns hard at slow speeds.
I can only imagine what some of the modifieds here go through

BTW - why didn't someone link to lunentucker's thread on all JT steering and suspension torque values??

 

[ShadowsPapa]

It would be nice if instead of Lb-Ft they would express it in amount of bolt stretch.
But then people would have to buy another expensive tool that only has one function.

Let the debate begin

My next 401 engine build, i may do just that for the rod bolts!

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Thank you again Mr. S. Papa. I had this all figured out six months ago, but completely forgot about it. Thank you again for pointing out the simplicity of it.

Whew, I took off for town and was concerned maybe I was harsh in the wording and maybe it came across as - well. I came back to the post to make sure it didn't come across as an insult! It was more of a general musing thing. Whew!

 

[kevman65]

My next 401 engine build, i may do just that for the rod bolts!

We had some heat exchanger head bolts in a refinery that the nuts were 2-13/16" on studs.
Everything was specified out, stud and nut grades, stud lengths (+- .125"), anti-seize type and grade, torque settings were given, but final QC check was to see what stud length was after torque. Minimum was the length given, maximum was + .125".
Had to use a hydraulic torque because the number was astronomically high for guys used to pulling wrenches (or using knock wrenches).

For those of you paying attention to the numbers, studs on the short end of acceptable were only used one time. Once they busted on being too short when tight no one wanted to have to go through changing them out again.

 

[RK Racing]

Whew, I took off for town and was concerned maybe I was harsh in the wording and maybe it came across as - well. I came back to the post to make sure it didn't come across as an insult! It was more of a general musing thing. Whew!

Lol…… I just made a secret poll on you and it turns out the majority of us still like you

 

[Minty JL]

2 ugga duggas FTW

 

[ShadowsPapa]

We had some heat exchanger head bolts in a refinery that the nuts were 2-13/16" on studs.
Everything was specified out, stud and nut grades, stud lengths (+- .125"), anti-seize type and grade, torque settings were given, but final QC check was to see what stud length was after torque. Minimum was the length given, maximum was + .125".
Had to use a hydraulic torque because the number was astronomically high for guys used to pulling wrenches (or using knock wrenches).

For those of you paying attention to the numbers, studs on the short end of acceptable were only used one time. Once they busted on being too short when tight no one wanted to have to go through changing them out again.

The idea on torque + degrees is that knowing the pitch of the thread, once the torque is applied to a certain point to take out all slack, etc., the number of degrees tells them how much stretch is applied to a bolt.

Not sure I could measure some of the larger fasteners used in places like a refinery, etc. - my micrometer set only goes to 5"

 

[bgott]

I've found that the best way to tighten torque -to -yield is to pre-mark the fastener with a paint dot and then hold up my degree wheel and eyeball a mark on the part I'm installing. That way I know where I'm at if I slip or need to get a couple of bites to complete the turn, etc. It really sucks to forget where you're at doing these, especially doing head bolts.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I've found that the best way to tighten torque -to -yield is to pre-mark the fastener with a paint dot and then hold up my degree wheel and eyeball a mark on the part I'm installing. That way I know where I'm at if I slip or need to get a couple of bites to complete the turn, etc. It really sucks to forget where you're at doing these, especially doing head bolts.

Most of these aren't torque to yield. Yes both use torque plus degrees but for different reasons here.

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