U1514-87 and U0415-00 errors

[Lost1wing]

My brother-in-law is one of those electrical engineers, now working for Boss snow plow. He has had a few panic attacks over the years. I would say they were stress related, he is wound tight most of the time.

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[Gvsukids]

The answer and consensus is those are codes from unplugging the SGW and that after a little time and cycling they’ll clear. I checked my connections because my SGW extension cable is a little gummed up, just let time pass and sure enough they were gone in the end.

Recently, I've had the code and cel after multiple times having the @! symbol. I cleared the codes.

 

[MJRSC]

Recently, I've had the code and cel after multiple times having the @! symbol. I cleared the codes.

Yea I cleared mine and seemed after a few cycles never returned.

 

[SargeDiesel]

I realize this ia an old post... so if anyone still has their ears on... @ 18,270 miles of no issue driving... I just got the same codes...

BCM-DTC U2514-87
PTS-DTC U0415-00

I also saw,

DASM - NO MODULE RESPONSE
PCM - NO MODULE RESPONSE
* is the because the vehicle wasn't running ? Or .... ?

I have a Tazer, but I do not leave it connected, I haven't had it connected for years. When I did, it was only to change tire size and TPMS range.


What happened:
while driving with cruise control on, 65 mph... needed to get out of faster traffic, stepped on the gas, steadily getting up to 75/80 mph... then I noticed a chech engine light.

My mind started playing tricks, thought the motor sounded different... but probably in my head.

Has anyone nailed down exactly what these codes are ?

Is it safe to drive in this state ?

Should I clear them and move on ?
Or
Is it time to un-marry the Tazer and see the dealership while the codes are present ? (Still under warranty)

@ShadowsPapa
@Gvsukids

 

[SargeDiesel]

I realize this ia an old post... so if anyone still has their ears on... @ 18,270 miles of no issue driving... I just got the same codes...

BCM-DTC U2514-87
PTS-DTC U0415-00

I also saw,

DASM - NO MODULE RESPONSE
PCM - NO MODULE RESPONSE
* is the because the vehicle wasn't running ? Or .... ?

I have a Tazer, but I do not leave it connected, I haven't had it connected for years. When I did, it was only to change tire size and TPMS range.


What happened:
while driving with cruise control on, 65 mph... needed to get out of faster traffic, stepped on the gas, steadily getting up to 75/80 mph... then I noticed a chech engine light.

My mind started playing tricks, thought the motor sounded different... but probably in my head.

Has anyone nailed down exactly what these codes are ?

Is it safe to drive in this state ?

Should I clear them and move on ?
Or
Is it time to un-marry the Tazer and see the dealership while the codes are present ? (Still under warranty)

@ShadowsPapa
@Gvsukids

I did find this, so maybe a good place to start..

The Jeep Gladiator BCM DTC U1514-87 code indicates "Implausible Data Received From Steering Column Control Module - Missing Message," and is often related to the Security Gateway Module (SGW). This code is frequently seen after a dead battery, if the SGW has been disconnected, or if aftermarket devices have been installed, such as an Autostop Eliminator. To diagnose, check fuses, grounds, and the SGW module connection, and try a drive cycle after clearing the code.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I just got the same codes...

BCM-DTC U2514-87
PTS-DTC U0415-00

Invalid or missing message related to vehicle speed
and
invalid data from ABS

Wheel sensor issue? (or cable/communications problems)
Time to check the wheel sensors, their wiring for damage, connections and whatever.

It could make sense if the thing believes it's going one speed, but the messages indicate something else, and the engine speed doesn't match the gear it's in vs road speed

An example of what I mean is - with my 4.0 conversion in my car, if the VSS is telling the PCM that the car speed has not changed but the RPM of the engine jumps, it kills the cruise control.


The "U0415-00" error code signifies invalid data is being received by the Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) control module from another component in the vehicle. This communication error is often caused by faulty ABS sensors, damaged wiring, a malfunctioning ABS module, or network communication problems.

For a Jeep, the code U2514-87 typically indicates a communication issue where a module is receiving an invalid or missing message related to vehicle speed. The "-87" suffix specifies that the message is missing. While the generic code points to a speed signal problem,

 

[SargeDiesel]

Invalid or missing message related to vehicle speed
and
invalid data from ABS

Wheel sensor issue? (or cable/communications problems)
Time to check the wheel sensors, their wiring for damage, connections and whatever.

It could make sense if the thing believes it's going one speed, but the messages indicate something else, and the engine speed doesn't match the gear it's in vs road speed

An example of what I mean is - with my 4.0 conversion in my car, if the VSS is telling the PCM that the car speed has not changed but the RPM of the engine jumps, it kills the cruise control.


The "U0415-00" error code signifies invalid data is being received by the Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) control module from another component in the vehicle. This communication error is often caused by faulty ABS sensors, damaged wiring, a malfunctioning ABS module, or network communication problems.

For a Jeep, the code U2514-87 typically indicates a communication issue where a module is receiving an invalid or missing message related to vehicle speed. The "-87" suffix specifies that the message is missing. While the generic code points to a speed signal problem,

Thank you.

I was on cruise control and forgot to disengage it... pressing the gas hard causing a down shift.

The other issue is I am still on my original aux battery (2022 model)
I've read it could aslo be the culprit.

I pulled my ESS memory module.
I also unmarried my Tazer .

Before the unmarry, I scanned again and it seemed to drop the
U1514-87 code ???

Still under warranty, so I will have dealership rescan tomorrow.

Safe to drive ?

Thanks again.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Thank you.

I was on cruise control and forgot to disengage it... pressing the gas hard causing a down shift.

The other issue is I am still on my original aux battery (2022 model)
I've read it could aslo be the culprit.

I pulled my ESS memory module.
I also unmarried my Tazer .

Before the unmarry, I scanned again and it seemed to drop the
U1514-87 code ???

Still under warranty, so I will have dealership rescan tomorrow.

Safe to drive ?

Thanks again.

Yeah, I'd avoid the cruise as if there's a wheel sensor involved - bad or a wiring/signal or connection issue, it might not like mixed signals.

 

[SargeDiesel]

Yeah, I'd avoid the cruise as if there's a wheel sensor involved - bad or a wiring/signal or connection issue, it might not like mixed signals.

I usually use cruise, I keep it at 65. I've gassed it before, but I can't remember really putting my foot into it, like I did this time, but I wouldn’t think it should matter.

I noticed lastnight, my remote start shuts down after about 20-30 seconds.... then I get a message to start it normally to reset it... so far, it hasn't reset.

Really hoping it's the AUX battery playing games. But with that said, I know some dealerships also play games and wont cover it under warranty.

Please dont hammer me...(I've been away from the forum for a little while)

But, did everyone come up with a definitive way "without codes or concenquences" for disconnecting/separating the mai from the auxiliary battery ?

Thinking with the age of the batteries and now that I am having issues (2022 , 18,880m) it might be time to isolate.

Whats your opinion on doing this ?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I usually use cruise, I keep it at 65. I've gassed it before, but I can't remember really putting my foot into it, like I did this time, but I wouldn’t think it should matter.

I noticed lastnight, my remote start shuts down after about 20-30 seconds.... then I get a message to start it normally to reset it... so far, it hasn't reset.

Really hoping it's the AUX battery playing games. But with that said, I know some dealerships also play games and wont cover it under warranty.

Please dont hammer me...(I've been away from the forum for a little while)

But, did everyone come up with a definitive way "without codes or concenquences" for disconnecting/separating the mai from the auxiliary battery ?

Thinking with the age of the batteries and now that I am having issues (2022 , 18,880m) it might be time to isolate.

Whats your opinion on doing this ?

Pull F42, and disconnect the aux battery ground from the connection on top of the IBS - that's the most simple method.
I would only do this is you also want to stop letting ESS work.
If you want ESS to continue to work, I'd charge and test each battery, and if bad or even "iffy", replace 'em.

 

[SargeDiesel]

Pull F42, and disconnect the aux battery ground from the connection on top of the IBS - that's the most simple method.
I would only do this is you also want to stop letting ESS work.
If you want ESS to continue to work, I'd charge and test each battery, and if bad or even "iffy", replace 'em.

Thank you. That's what I thought. I just wanted to reconfirm.

I've had the original E.S.S.Eliminator installed since the beginning. I never use it. So I will probably install it again after the deletion and dealership visit.

I've read some people's ESS still functions after isolating the auxiliary battery and they have to push the button everytime to turn it off... from my understanding, you do not want to use the ESS with the AUX bseparated because it will put too much strain on the main battery.

My batteries ar 2022, I icked my vehicle up in december of 2021 ...
So no telling exactly how old they are. But we can figure at least 4 - 5 yeas...
These jeep batteries seem to be really terrible. Maybe i'm an exception or the way I maintain my vehicles.But i've had other batteries in ford's dodge chevys, that last easily ten years. Currently, have a battery in my dodge from 2018... still running strong.... but probably not after saying this...

 

[BigG]

Did you ever get to the bottom of this? I had the same thing happen the other day. Had it in adaptive cruise, accelerated past the setting, kinda forgot it was on and I felt a jolt and the light came on. No response from DASM or PCM.

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