Thanks for the info. Would you mind posting a picture of what it looks like final with the seats installed and folded down? I think I’m going to steal your idea! I’m assuming the lower panel/cargo tray separates easy from the main rear plastic panel that’s in your picture?The angle iron (its way over kill, but what I had on hand) is drilled and place over the factory studs that hold down the lower cargo tray(removed) then just fender washers and 2 nuts
The PVC board is bolted to 2 peices of flat stock that I welded to the angle iron.
This bracket is way more than needed for an amp rack, but I previously had a powered sub woofer installed in this location and that was much heavier
CAD drawingsDo you have a cad drawing of measurements that you'd be willing to share? I'm looking at doing a singular 8 in skar audio sub in a bandpass box. But racking my brain on the angles of the seat and keeping it in spec for the subs requirements including tuning of the port.

......tape measure manI went sealed to avoid all that math...and I like tighter bassHa. I was hoping to cheat to avoid that so I can figure the cubes and port length to make the box to exact specifications. Thanks though.
I originally planned L7T 10s (shallow) but once I actually built the box it was just a little to tight for comfort,(1.1ft³, giving each sub just over .5ft³)You took what I've had in my mind and brought it too reality. Looks great. Hows the sound and I guess I'm missing it, but what size subs are you using. I'm going with 10s
It's 5 years later but any dimensions for the cuts?Don't judge to harshly. This was my first time building a sub box, or really anything out of wood(I much prefer metal). It took me way longer than I expected and didn't come out 100% perfect but I think it's good enough.
Built from 3/4 mdf, houses 2 kicker L7T 8" (800w RMS total). Internal seams sealed with silicone caulk. Outside coated in raptor liner.
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