UPDATE IN OP - 2026 JT - Clayton 2.5" Ride Right - Add MOPAR Extended Lower Control Arms?

[nicholsmf]

Update: Got the front and rear springs, sway bar end links, and track bars installed along with the MOPAR extended lower control arms, Rock Jock rear drive shaft carrier bearing drop spacer, and Teraflex 1/2" front spring spacer. At 50 years old, that was enough for me spread over two days on a concrete floor on jack stands.

Final lift height was Front 4.5" (1.2" was spacer) and Rear 3.375"

In my earlier post about front lift being 3.5, I had forgot I already had Teraflex 1.5" leveling spacer kit.

I haven't taken any caster measurements yet, but I did take it for a 20 mile shake down drive and it drives perfectly to include bridge expansion joints, railroad tracks, and speeds from 0 to 85 MPH. Tracks straight with no hands on the wheel, etc.

At this point, I see no reason to put the upper adjustable control arms on unless someone can tell me what I might be hurting that I don't know.

My JK has the full Metalcloak 3.5" Gamechanger and the JT easily drives just as nice with only the MOPAR extended lower control arms and track bars for corrective measures.

Of course we gotta have a pic. Next stop, new tires.

Recently bought a 2026 Sport and was initially planning on doing the MOPAR lift. I found you can buy it much cheaper by purchasing the individual components vs buying the kit so I started purchasing components. I changed my mind and ordered the Clayton 2.5" Ride Right but already have the lower control arms for the MOPAR lift.

Any benefit to using the longer MOPAR lower control arms with the Clayton 2.5" Ride Right?

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[caryt]

They will get you back Castor so thats good but I'd just get aftermarket adj arms.

 

[nicholsmf]

They will get you back Castor so thats good but I'd just get aftermarket adj arms.

The Clayton Ride Rite comes with front upper adjustable arms. Eventually I'll add the other three sets of arms. I figure since I already had the MOPAR lower extended arms, it would only be a couple extra minutes to swap them when I'm putting the lift on.

 

[Svenable]

I do not see a reason not to use the Mopar adjustable arms. They are sunk cost. I have the Clayton 3.5" lift on mine and I like their stuff but if you have the arms put them to use, my opinion.

 

[nicholsmf]

Well, after work today I got the front springs on and the MOPAR extended lower control arms installed. I didn't get the Clayton upper control arms on yet. Actual lift height in the front was exactly 3.00". Checked caster and it was 6 degrees. Makes me wonder if I need the upper adjustable arms.

I guess the caster measurement will change some, though I assume very little, when I get the rear springs on since it will pivot the whole front of the vehicle forward a little. We'll see tomorrow.

 

[Svenable]

Generally speaking the lower control arms position the axle location, fore and aft, under the vehicle and the uppers adjust caster/pinion angle. When you have adjustability you can tune the position and camber/pinion angle of both axles. You may want to ensure the axles are "square" under the Jeep, that is a lower control arm adjustment.

 

[Sandman 4x4]

Well, after work today I got the front springs on and the MOPAR extended lower control arms installed. I didn't get the Clayton upper control arms on yet. Actual lift height in the front was exactly 3.00". Checked caster and it was 6 degrees. Makes me wonder if I need the upper adjustable arms.

I guess the caster measurement will change some, though I assume very little, when I get the rear springs on since it will pivot the whole front of the vehicle forward a little. We'll see tomorrow.

That’s the opposite way you want the caster changed. The front axle must be laid back, not tilted forward. Longer lower arms add caster, that prevents death wobble and steering wheel return to center coming out of a turn.

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