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What a difference a year makes (pricing)

Sprinkler-Fitter

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So recently my wife has come down with some rather troublesome back issues. Riding in my JT seems to be hard on her and her back if we do any distance. So I have contemplated moving back into the Ram 1500. I guess about a year or so ago there were numerous offers to me to sell my JT for more than the MSRP was on it when I bought it. I have a 2020 JT Sport S Max Tow with 7" and Soft Top. I upgraded the wheels to Rubicon wheels and have upgraded the shocks to Fox 2.0 along with 10K Winch, Various additional lights in the bed and front bumper. I understand those changes are only valuable to someone who wants them. I still have all the original parts except the front bumper fog lights.
Just for curiosity, I checked with a few places to see what they would offer me for my JT current with about 33,000 on it. Most I got offered was around $29K which I think is like the bottom end of the KBB value of the truck. Quiet shocking to see if go from 45K to 29K.
I likely will end up just keeping it for now unless something great comes along cause I don't see a win situation for me with what they are charging for trucks new and used vs what they want to give me for my truck. But who knows.
She knows I don't want to give up my JT but I'll do it if it helps her and her back
7” what?
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BAT

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@BAT

have you considered calling a couple dealers outside your immediate area? Trade values may be better elsewhere ?‍♂

i assume youve tried the usual already. Carvana / carmax / ect.
Funny that was my next thing possibly look outside of Katy/Houston and see if the market is better. My wife doesn't want me to get rid of my truck but I know she is miserable riding in it
 
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BAT

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Keep your Gladiator. Go out and buy an older Buick, Grand Marquis, Cadillac, etc those cars comfortable, almost like riding on a couch, and are cheap
If I had the space for it that would be something to look at. She has a very nice Toyota Highlander we take a lot but often times it does not work out for hauling things we need to haul.
 

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So recently my wife has come down with some rather troublesome back issues. Riding in my JT seems to be hard on her and her back if we do any distance. So I have contemplated moving back into the Ram 1500. I guess about a year or so ago there were numerous offers to me to sell my JT for more than the MSRP was on it when I bought it. I have a 2020 JT Sport S Max Tow with 7" and Soft Top. I upgraded the wheels to Rubicon wheels and have upgraded the shocks to Fox 2.0 along with 10K Winch, Various additional lights in the bed and front bumper. I understand those changes are only valuable to someone who wants them. I still have all the original parts except the front bumper fog lights.
Just for curiosity, I checked with a few places to see what they would offer me for my JT current with about 33,000 on it. Most I got offered was around $29K which I think is like the bottom end of the KBB value of the truck. Quiet shocking to see if go from 45K to 29K.
I likely will end up just keeping it for now unless something great comes along cause I don't see a win situation for me with what they are charging for trucks new and used vs what they want to give me for my truck. But who knows.
She knows I don't want to give up my JT but I'll do it if it helps her and her back
Bummer to hear that !! Also kind of strange because there still bringing over book at dealers auctions? The trick might be to sell it on your own or trade to a non Jeep dealer
 

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BAT

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Bummer to hear that !! Also kind of strange because there still bringing over book at dealers auctions? The trick might be to sell it on your own or trade to a non Jeep dealer
Seems the couple places I have talked to are sticking strictly by the Lower end of the KBB.
 

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What air bags are you running, and which Synergy springs did you go with? Or do you have a build thread with more info?
I never thought to do a build thread..... hmmm.
I am running the stock Overland rear springs with the AirLift 1000 60830
I had max tow springs under my 2020 Overland but the weight of trailer tongue still made the truck sit low in the rear and my headlights were way high when towing at night. (and the ride wasn't as good)
With the air bags I can measure the rear of the truck, add some air, connect the trailer, then add air as needed to get it close to the original height. I don't try to get it exactly, just so it's close and at least level if not with a bit of rake.

For the front springs I went with Synergy 2" JL/JT springs. That got me back to stock height plus 1.5" with the weight of the bumper, receiver and winch and they support my snow plow fine.

Springs I ordered from Quadratec because they honored their sale price when all the others jumped up something like 70 bucks literally over-night. I had been talking to another vendor, then called them to order and when they gave me the price - I went YIKES! They said the price went up and that was the price. I contacted Quadratec and they said since they had not changed their web site and the springs were listed at a discount on their site they'd honor the price even though it had jumped up over-night.

These are supposed to lift a JL 3" and a JLU or JT by 2".
The ride and handling is fantastic.

Jeep Gladiator What a difference a year makes (pricing) 1688393771480



https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Z45CDR9

Jeep Gladiator What a difference a year makes (pricing) 1688393402337


Jeep Gladiator What a difference a year makes (pricing) PXL_20230504_225406554


These plows are 300 pounds. The weight sits well out front so has a lot of effect on the balance of the truck. Even lowered, you still have probably 100 pounds of plow weight on it due to the rigging and brackets. The springs handle it fine. The dual rate is a big factor.


Jeep Gladiator What a difference a year makes (pricing) 20221219_160420
 
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ShadowsPapa

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Seems the couple places I have talked to are sticking strictly by the Lower end of the KBB.
Dealers don't use KBB - none that I talked to. They use NADA. KBB is so often removed from the reality of what dealers do anyway. Twice I showed dealers the KBB results I had and twice I was told get rid of those papers and they showed me NADA and said that's all they go by as well as researching other dealers in their area.
Spencer from Motor Inn gave me comparisons when we traded Grand Cherokees back in 2020 - comparable sales on other dealerships in that part of Iowa. KBB wasn't even close - his numbers were actually better because he used reality - OTHER dealers.
 

Wolf Island Diver

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I obviously need to go check the NADA Black Book pricing at my dealer, because the state of Virginia claims my JTRD went up in value by $10k since December when, based on this, it looks like prices actually went down. My PPTs went up significantly.
 

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@BAT

have you considered calling a couple dealers outside your immediate area? Trade values may be better elsewhere ?‍♂

i assume youve tried the usual already. Carvana / carmax / ect.
I had to laugh at the CRAP quotes Carvana, Carmax and one other gave me. WAAAY lower than Driveway, for example. I mean thousands lower.
The DEALER beat Carmax and Carvana by several thousand. I couldn't believe their lowball numbers. When a local dealer will beat their pricing by a good 5 grand, PLUS - the tax difference, it's huge. Here you pay tax on the purchase price minus your trade. So if you have no trade, you pay tax on the whole purchase price. So you have to sell for thousands more than the dealer offer to offset the tax. Since Carmax, Carvana and others were already LOWER than the local dealers, it was a no-brainer. They'd have had to beat the dealer price by thousands to make it work - instead, the dealer trounced them and made them a joke in my eyes. Seriously - a dealer beating them by over 5K.
The online numbers were all over the map. As I recall there was a 6K or so difference between the high (Driveway) and low (Carvana/Carmax were close as far as lows)
The dealer basically met or was close to Driveway - plus I got to keep my truck until trade day, plus I saved having to pay tax on over 40 grand of purchase price.
 

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ShadowsPapa

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I obviously need to go check the NADA Black Book pricing at my dealer, because the state of Virginia claims my JTRD went up in value by $10k since December when, based on this, it looks like prices actually went down. My PPTs went up significantly.
VA considers it "property" and taxes on their perceived value, is that correct?
 

Koolcarguy

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Seems the couple places I have talked to are sticking strictly by the Lower end of the KBB.
In the west dealers only use kbb if they are selling most dealers here use Nada
 

Wolf Island Diver

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VA considers it "property" and taxes on their perceived value, is that correct?
Virginia uses 100% of “fair market value.” which I believe they get from NADA like everyone else. The state charges a percentage of that. Then localities add on their amount so the final percentage varies. My locality has some of the highest taxes in the country. For example, tax on prepared food is 14.5%. Our rate for personal property is 4.5% which is the same as the state sales tax. So every year I pay the new vehicle sales tax again. This runs me about $800, twice a year. This continues in perpetuity. At least it’s federally deductible and usually all my local crap puts me well over the standard federal deduction, so I get some of it back.

The issue I have is that I question where they actually get their info, and they frequently screw up. For example on real estate, one year they radically raised the taxes on my home but I had a fresh appraisal showing it had gone down. According to the state, an appraisal is ground truth, but my city refused to budge, appraisal he damned. My only option was to sue, which wasn’t worth it once I give my attorney his pound of flesh.

Traditionally in Virginia, like a lot of other places, assessments ran about 18% lower than appraisals and they lag behind current home prices. As municipalities struggled with budgets, that gap disappeared and in some cases reversed. That happened in my case. I had to wait a year for them to correct it during another assessment. This is why I want to check the Black Book to see if my value jives with what the city says it is. My experience with most of the employees working in city government across South Eastern Virginia, having worked for the FD and just living here forever, is that they hire incompetent fools. At least they don’t take into account all the crap I’ve added to my truck.

My understanding from folks I know in the car business, was that values went up but they’ve come down in the last year. This thread seems to agree with that. Why my value suddenly spiked mid 2023 makes no sense to me, but these assessments tend to lag.

The city has gotten really nasty with this too. They took a homeland security grant from the feds and used it to buy ALPR systems for the sheriff’s office (our sheriff’s office runs the jail and serves papers, we have a police department), so deputies, who apparently have nothing better to do, can drive around and identify cars with delinquent taxes, which they then impound. So poor people who can’t afford to pay their taxes lose the means to get to work to get the money to pay the taxes. Government logic. This April, they decided that I was 1 month late paying my June taxes way bill back in 2020 (I wasn’t), and now after 3 years were going to report me to the state to have my state vehicle registration frozen. There’s a bunch of hags/Karens in that office. I had to escalate it up to the elected commissioner of revenue to get it straight.
 

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Sorry to hear about your wife's pain level in the JT. Have you considered changing out the seats (or passenger seat)? I don't know much about it - never really researched it - but I'm pretty sure there are options that are more comfortable than the stock seats. Hope you can find something that works for you. It may end up being a combination of things? Good luck!
 

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I just did the opposite of the OP. I just traded my ram in because I could get 5G more for it than I paid 3 years ago . I just figured I would take advantage of that fact. Most of the 20's I looked at were either a Max tow or Rubicon . Naturally most 20's still have the aluminum steering box which has to go before the 37's arrive and were out of bumper to bumper warranty . Most max tow were 32-39,000 Some Rubicons came in under 40 but mileage took them out of the game for me . I ended up with a 22 max tow with 7500 miles and naturally a steel steering box and plenty of warranty Plus it was the color I have wanted for 23 years and had all the options I wanted and then some ( other than the 3.5" dash ) Your trade is a little low but you can see now roughly what a 20 will go for on a lot in Jersey anyway. Now as soon as Fedex gets here with my springs the changes will begin .
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