What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

[ShadowsPapa]

They go together dry. Grease is added before they go in and before the boot goes on.

A lot like those in my eagle, but larger. Been through several of the eagle front front shafts over the years.

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[WILDHOBO]

Had to tease you after I seen how well it was greased prior to the rebuild surprised it ever wore out.

So…learning. . The inner race was upside down. Whoops. No harm no foul. Now it’s correct.

 

[WILDHOBO]

A lot like those in my eagle, but larger. Been through several of the eagle front front shafts over the years.

That inner race is 300m, even on the non-300m cv edition, which this is. RCV support told me the number of catastrophic failures on JL/JT can be counted on two hands max, and those were failure to grease customers mostly. If anything would have broken, the rebuild kits would have been covered under lifetime warranty. Love this company.

Edit: Painters tape to keep dirt out until grease and reassembly. That won’t happen until I deal with the lower passenger ball joint.

 

[Stan H]

A while back I had a truck with a grease zirk in ths driveshaft that I couldn't get too. A fuy at Napa ask if the rubber boot was soft I said yes so he goes and find me these greasing syringes . Had grease fitting on one end and long sharp syringe on the other end. Man want to talk about a life saver . Never had anymore trouble getting grease were it needed to be and I would stop when I seen the boot swell up. Wonder if the boots on the RCV could be managed like that ? Just to add grease after 10,000 miles or after water fording etc..

 

[WILDHOBO]

A while back I had a truck with a grease zirk in ths driveshaft that I couldn't get too. A fuy at Napa ask if the rubber boot was soft I said yes so he goes and find me these greasing syringes . Had grease fitting on one end and long sharp syringe on the other end. Man want to talk about a life saver . Never had anymore trouble getting grease were it needed to be and I would stop when I seen the boot swell up. Wonder if the boots on the RCV could be managed like that ? Just to add grease after 10,000 miles or after water fording etc..

Very neat idea. Thankfully they don’t need to. They have a needle zerk fitting in the end of the shaft. Accessible by as little as popping out the wheel hub plastic caps. I do it roughly every 5k miles, or early if I’m going on a long trip.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

That inner race is 300m, even on the non-300m cv edition, which this is. RCV support told me the number of catastrophic failures on JL/JT can be counted on two hands max, and those were failure to grease customers mostly. If anything would have broken, the rebuild kits would have been covered under lifetime warranty. Love this company.

Edit: Painters tape to keep dirt out until grease and reassembly. That won’t happen until I deal with the lower passenger ball joint.

The problem with the Eagle shafts is the boots. And to replace them you may as well pull things apart, clean, fresh grease. I've not had a failure but many others have - most likely from lack of boot inspection. I keep spare boot kits for my car.

 

[WILDHOBO]

The problem with the Eagle shafts is the boots. And to replace them you may as well pull things apart, clean, fresh grease. I've not had a failure but many others have - most likely from lack of boot inspection. I keep spare boot kits for my car.

I’m sure you’re spot on. The Oem cv axles I removed had similar rubber boots. I’m sure they’d have failed eventually. It only takes one slice.

 

[Mightytalldude]

With the new lift springs a few weeks back, needed to replace my tired shocks at all 4 corners to match the new lift. Some long travel Falcon 1.1, replacing the Fox shocks and shock extender.

 

[Stan H]

With the new lift springs a few weeks back, needed to replace my tired shocks at all 4 corners to match the new lift. Some long travel Falcon 1.1, replacing the Fox shocks and shock extender.

What the shock extensions for the old shocks I take it .. cause the Falcons come tailored to order . I ordered specifically for the 2.5-3.5 and let me tell ya they can stretch I have had my jacked hard

 

[Mightytalldude]

What the shock extensions for the old shocks I take it .. cause the Falcons come tailored to order . I ordered specifically for the 2.5-3.5 and let me tell ya they can stretch I have had my jacked hard

Yeah, the old Rubicon Fox shocks. I had the extensions until I replaced the 1.5" lift with a 3.5". These are matched to the 3.5" lift.

 

[Stan H]

Tentative reassembly until I get the green light from RCV support.

So I am guessing the balls was wore out .. just by chance did ya measure the old balls against the new ?

 

[WILDHOBO]

So I am guessing the balls was wore out .. just by chance did ya measure the old balls against the new ?

I didn’t. Just didn’t feel like cleaning them. But still can, as I have the driver side to go, so have six uninstalled balls to go.

 

[WILDHOBO]

So I am guessing the balls was wore out .. just by chance did ya measure the old balls against the new ?

Btw. You saw my other post right? I initially setup the joint with the inner race upside down. Just don’t want to screw anyone up when they do this.

 

[WILDHOBO]

As much as I was dreading it, I started to tackle the lower passenger ball joint preload problem, which I’m sure I screwed up the first time I installed them. Metalcloak joints. I apparently was dreading it for a good reason. I couldn’t get the knuckle off the upper joint to save my Fing life. I stripped the threads on a pitman puller trying, after the standard tapping method was an utter failure. That split sleeve on the upper joint is the instrument of demons. It just will not let go of that taper. The knuckle moved down with the puller until it stopped on the sleeve flange. And there it stayed. Until I finally got pissed and “took care of it”. Now I need to rebuild the top and bottom joints on that side, after only like 10k miles. This is not @Metalcloak ’s fault whatsoever. It really looks like I had the races in the passenger lower joint out of index, causing that one to not preload correctly. But the removal was just hell. At this point, the knuckle is off, the lower spindle is out of the knuckle, and what’s left of the upper spindle is still there. Nothing I’ve tried as moved it a millimeter. Thankfully…….Man invented cheap beer.

 

[Hootbro]

Arts and Crafts day at the house. Got in some primer DANA covers and threw on a few coats of gloss black high temp engine paint. Saved about $150 for the set buying them primer coated vs. finished on Amazon.

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