What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

[WILDHOBO]

That’s quite difficult on mine. LCA skid is in the way of removing fad skid. So LCA skid needs to come off first, then fad skid, then fad, then reverse all that.

I couldn’t find an answer so I elevated the driver side, and rotated the diff like 30 times in both directions. I do know that’s the method to feed it, but couldn’t find more specifics.

After the first 20 miles of the break in I’ll just open the diff fill and see if it’s lower. If so I’ll add some. Best idea I have right now.

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[WILDHOBO]

I have a question. I want to confirm what I think currently, or get the better answer. I’m obviously fine with either, or I wouldn’t be asking.

I have the 4 hi auto transfer case. 3.5 years ago when I broke in my new 5.13’s, I put it in 4 hi auto for the entire 500 miles. I know that rotates the front drive shaft, but not the axles unless slip is detected. Otherwise with a rubicon, AS I UNDERSTAND IT, the diff is open. Is that the correct method for breaking in front ring and pinion? I can’t see wanting to run 4 hi part time on dry summer pavement for 500 miles, as it’s likely to damage the t-case.

Here’s the big question. How to people without 4 hi auto break in front gears?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I have a question. I want to confirm what I think currently, or get the better answer. I’m obviously fine with either, or I wouldn’t be asking.

I have the 4 hi auto transfer case. 3.5 years ago when I broke in my new 5.13’s, I put it in 4 hi auto for the entire 500 miles. I know that rotates the front drive shaft, but not the axles unless slip is detected. Otherwise with a rubicon, AS I UNDERSTAND IT, the diff is open. Is that the correct method for breaking in front ring and pinion? I can’t see wanting to run 4 hi part time on dry summer pavement for 500 miles, as it’s likely to damage the t-case.

Here’s the big question. How to people without 4 hi auto break in front gears?

4HA also applies the clutches taking off from a stop no matter slip or not and above certain throttle values.
It's not only when slip is detected. We run it 24/7/365 in our JLU.
We have a JLU Rubicon 4xe but the t-case is the same as a non-4xe

 

[WILDHOBO]

4HA also applies the clutches taking off from a stop no matter slip or not and above certain throttle values.
It's not only when slip is detected. We run it 24/7/365 in our JLU.
We have a JLU Rubicon 4xe but the t-case is the same as a non-4xe

I don’t want mine on all the time, as there’s no reason in my mind for that front driveshaft to rotate on dry roads. I use it when it’s necessary. But to my question, what are your thoughts on how to get those front gears to break in? I’m going to call revolution as well.

 

[Hootbro]

I don’t want mine on all the time, as there’s no reason in my mind for that front driveshaft to rotate on dry roads. I use it when it’s necessary. But to my question, what are your thoughts on how to get those front gears to break in? I’m going to call revolution as well.

Might have to just straight flat road it a few miles here and there unless you have some unpaved road to take it on engaged in 4H.

What you bring up though explains why for most people, their gear oil is still looking mint from the factory when they change it at like 30K or 60K+ miles for the first time.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I don’t want mine on all the time, as there’s no reason in my mind for that front driveshaft to rotate on dry roads. I use it when it’s necessary. But to my question, what are your thoughts on how to get those front gears to break in? I’m going to call revolution as well.

No, and that's fine. It isn't engaged all the time. On a highway, cruising speeds - it's relaxed, not engaged, pressures at 0.

There's two reasons I use it on the JLU -
It prevents torque reduction so you always get the full effect of both engine and electric motor, otherwise TC and other stuff comes into play and reduces the torque output.
I've got some JSCAN shots somewhere showing when it's pressurized and when it's not.
Most of the time, it's not engaged. Only during a take-off from a stop, or full/heavy throttle - I think over 70% or so throttle, I'd have to look to see for sure.
But once you are moving along, out of first gear from a stop, it disengages.
Going down the highway - unless you mash it hard, it's not engaged.

and

As AMC has said "engage periodically to keep the carrier gears lubricated" as without that pinion acting as a slinger, the side and spider gears don't get much lube.

I see no reason to not use it, actually. (for me and my experiences over the years)
But- I'm not here to say "you really should" either!

 

[WILDHOBO]

Might have to just straight flat road it a few miles here and there unless you have some unpaved road to take it on engaged in 4H.

What you bring up though explains why for most people, their gear oil is still looking mint from the factory when they change it at like 30K or 60K+ miles for the first time.

I was actually told that the factory spicer gears are pre broken in, so they don’t need the same break in that aftermarket does.

 

[WILDHOBO]

No, and that's fine. It isn't engaged all the time. On a highway, cruising speeds - it's relaxed, not engaged, pressures at 0.

There's two reasons I use it on the JLU -
It prevents torque reduction so you always get the full effect of both engine and electric motor, otherwise TC and other stuff comes into play and reduces the torque output.
I've got some JSCAN shots somewhere showing when it's pressurized and when it's not.
Most of the time, it's not engaged. Only during a take-off from a stop, or full/heavy throttle - I think over 70% or so throttle, I'd have to look to see for sure.
But once you are moving along, out of first gear from a stop, it disengages.
Going down the highway - unless you mash it hard, it's not engaged.

and

As AMC has said "engage periodically to keep the carrier gears lubricated" as without that pinion acting as a slinger, the side and spider gears don't get much lube.

I see no reason to not use it, actually. (for me and my experiences over the years)
But- I'm not here to say "you really should" either!

Agreed. For me it’s the unnecessary drive shaft rotation with a large lift. No reason to piss off the seals any more than I Need to. It’s a game to find a compromise between drive shaft angle, springs being plumb, and caster.

I did talk to revolution just now at length. They’re not worried about it whatsoever. For front only, he even went so far as to tell me don’t worry about the full break-in. He said just keep the super high speed 4wd stuff to a minimum for a few hundred miles. That’s it. So I’ll err on the side of caution and do a couple heat cycles in 4 hi on neighborhood dirt, and will then run 4 hi auto for a few hundred miles and then switch the oil.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I was actually told that the factory spicer gears are pre broken in, so they don’t need the same break in that aftermarket does.

Right - the gear makers (aftermarket) even say - factory gears are pre-burnished. Still need some break-in, but not like aftermarket gears that are "raw" gears, unburnished.

Definitely follow the break-in for aftermarket gears. There's a reason they want the load and heat, then rest, and so on.

 

[Stan H]

I was thinking back to an old Ford truck I had and it had an NP-203 transfer case in it . I didn't like the fact that it was in 4wd up to 35mph then kicked out . So I bought a kit that went in the rear of the transfer case that allowed for full kick out of the front driveshaft and I stuck lock in lock out hubs on it...
In the instructions for the kit it advised that the 4wheel drive was to be used ever so many miles( can't recall now want to say 500) to lube the complete transfer case and front axle assembly
Not the same but ..same but different .
I can see the importance of an occasional 4wd run for sure.
I have mine in 4wd Hi and 4wd Lo every day . So I feel mine are well meshed

 

[WILDHOBO]

I was thinking back to an old Ford truck I had and it had an NP-203 transfer case in it . I didn't like the fact that it was in 4wd up to 35mph then kicked out . So I bought a kit that went in the rear of the transfer case that allowed for full kick out of the front driveshaft and I stuck lock in lock out hubs on it...
In the instructions for the kit it advised that the 4wheel drive was to be used ever so many miles( can't recall now want to say 500) to lube the complete transfer case and front axle assembly
Not the same but ..same but different .
I can see the importance of an occasional 4wd run for sure.
I have mine in 4wd Hi and 4wd Lo every day . So I feel mine are well meshed

So jealous. Every day?! I want your job.

 

[Stan H]

So jealous. Every day?! I want your job.

Lots of Mud I literally am on top a high-ish peak near the OH river as I write this.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Lots of Mud I literally am on top a high-ish peak near the OH river as I write this.

Rock solid.

 

[Wat Dog]

Wireless CarPlay and Android for the kids on road trips

 

[WILDHOBO]

Wireless CarPlay and Android for the kids on road trips

What!? You can play Netflix movies on the stock radio?

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