DIY: Remove and replace drivers broken body mount bolt -- how-to instructions w/ photos

Jteakus said:

I am so happy mine came out, I used a breaker bar and no impact, worked them back and forth and they came right out, Legitimate concern.

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AndyB said:

I know this has happend to a few people when installing sliders. I got a chance to help a buddy fix his. SO, I took a lot of photos with measurements and putting it here to help anyone who may need it.

The body bolts on the Jt and the JL are held in with lock tight and if you want to avoid this, I recommend an induction bolt heater which you can buy from Amazon sub $200.

the black dots represent spot welds. The black line it where we measured

measuring down from the rib in the floor, I went 1.5 inches​

Measure from the top line it put my second cut at 3.25" (you will notice my first attempt was at 4 25" however this is past a hidden weld).​

From here the sheet metal is very thin and i was able to peel back with my hands and expose the top.​

Now that you can see the nut and bolt, I put two nuts on it and heated it up with a propane plumbing torch (Keep an extinguisher and a wet rag near by for safety and heat control).​

It came out with minimal effort.​

Next I carefully put the panel back​

Then the fun of spotwelding​

Lots of grinding and sanding​

More sanding, then a little body sealer to ensure it's water tight.​

Hope this helps someone.​

Thanks.​

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Blade1668 said:

A induction heater is in my wish list for tools. But I do have a "blue wrench" handy. Did you use Flux core wire? No shade meant, sheet metal work is a pain in rear for some of us. I'm hopeful to be doing some this year on my MJ and possibly my XJ.
Good on that one.

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Free2roam said:

If I had to do sheet metal work on mine I would choose either a tig setup or regular wire on my mig.

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Blade1668 said:

I got a copper plate from a friend to use when I get started welding in replacement sheet metal in floor, and a spool of .023 solid wire. I might use my Lincoln 120v MIG to. I bought a YES multi function welder in Dec. I did some welding with it yesterday, I'm not totally impressed with it so far.... you get what you pay for. I about spent more on adding 220 outlet, wiring, breaker and ext. cord for it. So adding the TIG is out right now. I'd be ashamed to post the welds I did yesterday. To much wind, new welder that has some problems and I'm out of practice welding.... and almost the worst welder in my family if not the worst.

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Free2roam said:

Yeah I've got a 220 Lincoln MiG at home and an Everlast tig multi function. Tig is all I need for certain things. Mig is for my bigger projects. Running .030 inner shield.

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AndyB said:

I know this has happend to a few people when installing sliders. I got a chance to help a buddy fix his. SO, I took a lot of photos with measurements and putting it here to help anyone who may need it.

The body bolts on the Jt and the JL are held in with lock tight and if you want to avoid this, I recommend an induction bolt heater which you can buy from Amazon sub $200.

the black dots represent spot welds. The black line it where we measured

measuring down from the rib in the floor, I went 1.5 inches​

Measure from the top line it put my second cut at 3.25" (you will notice my first attempt was at 4 25" however this is past a hidden weld).​

From here the sheet metal is very thin and i was able to peel back with my hands and expose the top.​

Now that you can see the nut and bolt, I put two nuts on it and heated it up with a propane plumbing torch (Keep an extinguisher and a wet rag near by for safety and heat control).​

It came out with minimal effort.​

Next I carefully put the panel back​

Then the fun of spotwelding​

Lots of grinding and sanding​

More sanding, then a little body sealer to ensure it's water tight.​

Hope this helps someone.​

Thanks.​

Click to expand...