SDi E-CLiKs….Let the fun begin!

[ajkaz]

IDK what your coil bind or shock travel situations are, but I only needed .75" bump spacing to keep a 37 out of the rear fenders. 35 should require nothing?

Correct, I'm running 35's and on the shortest rear position, no bump stop spacing needed. I am however unseating the stock rear springs even with a .75" spacer. Waiting on Synergy to finish testing their rear JT 1" lift spring so I can swap out. Still a couple months out... Not hitting huge drops at high speed till then...lol

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[ajkaz]

I will say that having heim joint style ends transfers a lot more NVH into the truck. I do wish these were available with some sort of rubber bushing in the ends, the on road ride would be far better, especially on the beat up SoCal highways.

 

[Burghardphotography]

I will say that having heim joint style ends transfers a lot more NVH into the truck. I do wish these were available with some sort of rubber bushing in the ends, the on road ride would be far better, especially on the beat up SoCal highways.

what psi do you run in your tires onroad?

 

[Eazye]

I will say that having heim joint style ends transfers a lot more NVH into the truck. I do wish these were available with some sort of rubber bushing in the ends, the on road ride would be far better, especially on the beat up SoCal highways.

Hmmm, I don’t notice any of this, don’t get any vibrations at all. I’m running a 37” AT tire at about 27psi though so maybe that is the difference. Ohio roads are GARBAGE too because of all the freeze/thaw cycles.

 

[ajkaz]

what psi do you run in your tires onroad?

I'm running 35psi up front and 32 rear on 35x10.5x17 D range RT's.

 

[CrazyCooter]

Correct, I'm running 35's and on the shortest rear position, no bump stop spacing needed. I am however unseating the stock rear springs even with a .75" spacer. Waiting on Synergy to finish testing their rear JT 1" lift spring so I can swap out. Still a couple months out... Not hitting huge drops at high speed till then...lol

One of the guys I'm setting up has just a .75 rear spring spacer, so we could expect an issue with his spring coming loose on droop? I'm waiting for answers back on the shock lengths because what they list for specs don't jive with what I have written down.

I have Front 28.5" ext or you must replace the front driveline and 28"ish for the rear or you need rear brake hoses. I run Fox 3.5-4.5" (28.51") lift shocks front and 2-3" (28.3') in the rear and those have worked great from 1.5-3.5" front lift and 0-3" in the rear.

 

[CrazyCooter]

I will say that having heim joint style ends transfers a lot more NVH into the truck. I do wish these were available with some sort of rubber bushing in the ends, the on road ride would be far better, especially on the beat up SoCal highways.

I was both concerned and excited about the heims.........

On one hand I don't want them if they will squeak in 1yr, but also know that any movement that a poly bushing will allow on a shock load will leave the axle uncontrolled. They told me the heims in their test vehicles have never been changed and don't squeek.

We also talked about a person like me that is ultra sensitive/geeked out might even have different tunes for a mud or AT tire! Just me jumping up to 38x12.50 from 37x12.50 changed the whole game. I had to add 2-3 clicks of low speed while backing off the high speed a bit? The 38's have more flotation in theory just from the volume increase......Then factor in air pressure rises .5 psi per 1,000' of elevation. At 5-6000', I found myself dropping air pressure because the big cracks in the road were brutal! I ran my 35's on the OE wheel for a week while I painted my Methods for the 38" install........Those tires changed the dynamics as well.

I'm pretty sure I'll be into the SDI's fine tuning the valving to my liking while the electronic controll will just put icing on the cake! I'm envisioning that I'll be using shim profiles and flutters similar to what I've done with the Fox's except making changes in shim thicknesses for the piston and solenoid valve flow differences.

 

[CrazyCooter]

I'm running 35psi up front and 32 rear on 35x10.5x17 D range RT's.

That might be a bit on the much side depending on your axle weights. Mine weighs 3300 front/3000 rear unloaded full of fuel.

Looking at the load inflation table they dont list a 35x10.50R17, but a 35x12.50R17 is good for 1875lb @ 25psi and a 34x10.50R17 is good for 1635lb @ 25PSI. That said I would think you would be 28-30 front and maybe 25-27 rear if your weights are like mine. Maybe bump the rear up for your loads as needed.

 

[CrazyCooter]

I’m on 37s too with a 3” Rock Krawler lift, have not tried to figure out what it would take to be honest…. I dont think these shocks have the longest of stroke so they may limit before the coils themselves. If max flex is your goal, these may not be the first choice but for all around performance and comfort, they are awesome!

Just saw this post......

Flex in not the ultimate goal, but I'd like to optimize what is there. Traction can be done with increased tire loading by sway bars and lockers for the times that flex isn't there.

 

[CrazyCooter]

Hmmm, I don’t notice any of this, don’t get any vibrations at all. I’m running a 37” AT tire at about 27psi though so maybe that is the difference. Ohio roads are GARBAGE too because of all the freeze/thaw cycles.

On my 37x12.50's on 17x8.5's 27 front/25 rear was the happy unloaded pressure, but would bump up to 28-30 for when I was towing and or had a bike in the bed.

 

[ajkaz]

One of the guys I'm setting up has just a .75 rear spring spacer, so we could expect an issue with his spring coming loose on droop? I'm waiting for answers back on the shock lengths because what they list for specs don't jive with what I have written down.

I have Front 28.5" ext or you must replace the front driveline and 28"ish for the rear or you need rear brake hoses. I run Fox 3.5-4.5" (28.51") lift shocks front and 2-3" (28.3') in the rear and those have worked great from 1.5-3.5" front lift and 0-3" in the rear.

Yes, stock rear springs on a JTDR with 3/4" spacers were about 2" too short at full droop. Going to need a spring with a longer free length.

You are correct about the front droop, I have my front setup at position 1 and am at 27.25". Everything is great at full droop, I did relocate the brake line brackets on the control arm for a little more slack, not totally necessary though. I fully drooped the front with and without the DS connected, I think you have enough room to get away with keeping the OEM DS.

Here's what I recieved from them when setting up my shocks:

 

[ajkaz]

That might be a bit on the much side depending on your axle weights. Mine weighs 3300 front/3000 rear unloaded full of fuel.

Looking at the load inflation table they dont list a 35x10.50R17, but a 35x12.50R17 is good for 1875lb @ 25psi and a 34x10.50R17 is good for 1635lb @ 25PSI. That said I would think you would be 28-30 front and maybe 25-27 rear if your weights are like mine. Maybe bump the rear up for your loads as needed.

Thanks, I'll try dropping it a bit more. Its a narrow tall tire (which I wanted) and tends to show when you lower pressure. The front is so heavy you can really see the weight on the tires.

 

[Burghardphotography]

Hmmm, I don’t notice any of this, don’t get any vibrations at all. I’m running a 37” AT tire at about 27psi though so maybe that is the difference. Ohio roads are GARBAGE too because of all the freeze/thaw cycles.

i understand what he’s saying, I’ve run various psi’s and the ride does get better down at 27 psi for sure. I personally run mine around 32 psi.

 

[CrazyCooter]

Yes, stock rear springs on a JTDR with 3/4" spacers were about 2" too short at full droop. Going to need a spring with a longer free length.

You are correct about the front droop, I have my front setup at position 1 and am at 27.25". Everything is great at full droop, I did relocate the brake line brackets on the control arm for a little more slack, not totally necessary though. I fully drooped the front with and without the DS connected, I think you have enough room to get away with keeping the OEM DS.

Here's what I recieved from them when setting up my shocks:

Ya, those numbers are kind of backwards? The front should be longer han the rear for a given amount of lift? Maybe its just the way the lengths work out with the tubes and shaft ends they use.

I can afford to lose 3/4" down travel up front and make a 3/4" rear brake line spacer.

 

[CrazyCooter]

Just wanted to do a quick update, we have finished our 5,500 mile road trip on the SDI system. Overall I loved the way they handle on and off road, and I could tell the difference in settings between various setups i used in their system. Couple of issues: the shocks ecu kept overheating on mosquito pass in colorado, despite not very warm outside temperatures. The underhood temps on the diesel are pretty damn high when going slowly, and it made the ECU too hot to touch. SDI says I may have an ECU that was part of a batch that had the wrong temperature tolerance set for the overheat error, and has asked me to either send in my ECU for a reflash, or buy a new ECU and be refunded once i send in my old one. Secondly, the back left shock developed this awful buzzing sound when set to various dampening settings, and I'm talking louder than the motor noise, turning heads driving down the street loud. At first, they insisted that some buzzing was normal, but after sending a video of the sound, and the fact that the other three shocks are completely quiet in comparison, I think they agree something is amiss. I asked for the defective shock to be replaced with a new one, and they denied me that courtesy.

They quoted their warranty which states a defective part must be sent in for inspection, where they will determine if the issue is warrantable, and if so, will either repair or replace the shock. As this truck is my daily driver, I am not happy about taking my truck out of commission for what must be at least a couple weeks, if not more, to mail it to them, have them inspect and repair/replace it, and then mail it back to me. I am not sure if this is the standard practice with warrantying shocks or something, but I'll be without my daily for sometime without that shock installed.

Overall, I love these shocks and their customizability. As long as this warranty process goes smoothly, I'd recommend these to anyone.

Any updates on your warranty issue? Surely by now you have gotten it handled?

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