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Mojave shocks under a diesel?

Minty JL

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Not true.....even with the heavier springs there is still bottoming.

The diesel needs much more low/mid speed damping regardless of spring rate. I incrementally went from stock to Evos to Clayton gas to Clsyton diesel springs all on Fox 2.5 shocks and the bottoming didn't stop until I added much heavier valving to the effected shaft speed zone.
You read to far in to that. You can't have one without the other proper shocks and springs with the correct spring rate from the application.
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willhonkforparts

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willhonkforparts

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Not true.....even with the heavier springs there is still bottoming.

The diesel needs much more low/mid speed damping regardless of spring rate. I incrementally went from stock to Evos to Clayton gas to Clsyton diesel springs all on Fox 2.5 shocks and the bottoming didn't stop until I added much heavier valving to the effected shaft speed zone.
Did you modify the Fox 2.5 or did you go to a different shock?
 

CrazyCooter

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You read to far in to that. You can't have one without the other proper shocks and springs with the correct spring rate from the application.
I'd say you didn't reply far enough into it......

Yes, every change in rate requires a change in valving. Every time I went up in spring rate, I needed to increase rebound damping and sometimes reduce compression. It also allowed me to take some front bar out for a more compliant ride.
 

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Minty JL

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I'd say you didn't reply far enough into it......

Yes, every change in rate requires a change in valving. Every time I went up in spring rate, I needed to increase rebound damping and sometimes reduce compression. It also allowed me to take some front bar out for a more compliant ride.
I think we're on the same sheet of music......it just neglected to go into the nitty gritty detail.
 

Cripton805

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It will bottom out because of the extended bump stops. I got a Willys Wrangler and they put the extended bump stops. I only have like 1" of travel. ?

You have to get a lift.
 

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It will bottom out because of the extended bump stops. I got a Willys Wrangler and they put the extended bump stops. I only have like 1" of travel. ?

You have to get a lift.
Not entirely true........

The extended bump stops (Reduced up travel) are certainly a factor, but even though I had eventually installed 3.5" springs and increased the bump travel by 2.5", my front suspension still crashed into the bumps at speeds of 15-30mph until I started adding damping for the correct shaft velocity.

There is no doubt in my mind that I could tune out the bottoming with a good re-valvable shock on a stock height truck with stock springs....however the ride quality would have to suffer some. I would suggest a slightly heavier spring rate and maybe a 1.5-2.5" lift combined with a properly valved damper to dial it in. I don't think anyone offers a winning off the shelf combination as of right now.

People keep buying whats available as a bandaid only to still be somewhat dissatisfied. Bad advice on the forums continue to perpetuate the problem. The extra 300lb on the JTD's steer axle combined with the wheelbase makes it an unique dynamic.
 

Cripton805

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Not entirely true........

The extended bump stops are certainly a factor, but even though I had eventually installed 3.5" springs and increased the bump travel by 2.5", my front suspension still crashed into the bumps at speeds of 15-30mph until I started adding damping for the correct shaft velocity.

There is no doubt in my mind that I could tune out the bottoming with a good re-valvable shock on a stock height truck with stock springs....however the ride quality would have to suffer some. I would suggest a slightly heavier spring rate and maybe a 1.5-2.5" lift combined with a properly valved damper to dial it in. I don't think anyone offers a winning off the shelf combination as of right now.

People keep buying whats available as a bandaid only to still be somewhat dissatisfied. Bad advice on the forums continue to perpetuate the problem. The extra 300lb on the JTD's steer axle combined with the wheelbase makes it an unique dynamic.
Any other Wrangler or Gladiator doesn't bottom out except the XRs and diesels with the extended bump stops. They should have shorter bump stops from the factory, but you're right. You need all of the above to fix the issue.

I forgot to mention. My Willys is an XR.

I had a Wrangler Sport. As base as you could get it with shorter bump stops without any issues.
 

CrazyCooter

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Any other Wrangler or Gladiator doesn't bottom out except the XRs and diesels with the extended bump stops. They should have shorter bump stops from the factory, but you're right. You need all of the above to fix the issue.

I forgot to mention. My Willys is an XR.

I had a Wrangler Sport. As base as you could get it with shorter bump stops without any issues.
Incorrect........

One could valve a damper so that at any pretty much any decent speed it would never touch the bump, however ride quality would be horrible! To get a "decent" ride, all of the above (Spring rate, increae bumps spacing, damping, and less front bar rate) would be ideal. Many people refuse to add additional height or firm up the ride......Then it becomes impossible.
 

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CrazyCooter

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For much more info on my journey to happiness you can look at this thread. I've posted a link where the videos start at page 9 for those who want the "Cliff Notes" version. https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...ose-doing-their-own-shock-tuning.53421/page-9

I believe I'm down to one last change up front after 24 revisions to the valving over the past 15K miles of combined road, towing and off road driving under many different terrains and loads, but need to get more nitrogen. The latest change from worn out 37's to 38's has once again completely changed the feel of the suspension........
 

Cripton805

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Incorrect........

One could valve a damper so that at any pretty much any decent speed it would never touch the bump, however ride quality would be horrible! To get a "decent" ride, all of the above (Spring rate, increae bumps spacing, damping, and less front bar rate) would be ideal. Many people refuse to add additional height or firm up the ride......Then it becomes impossible.
My stock XR is 1" from the bump stop compared to a Non XR with 4" on flat ground. There's a huge thread on WranglerForums regarding this issue and bottoming out in stock form. Without going offroad and just small drain dips or train tracks. Jeep extended the bump stops too far in stock form with the stock suspension. How is this not an issue?

With a winch or steel bumpers. They're looking at 1/2 inch of travel. You're going to be hitting that bump stop 24/7.

There have been a number of people that fixed this issue with spacers or a lift on WranglerForums.
 

CrazyCooter

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My stock XR is 1" from the bump stop compared to a Non XR with 4" on flat ground. There's a huge thread on WranglerForums regarding this issue and bottoming out in stock form. Without going offroad and just small drain dips or train tracks. Jeep extended the bump stops too far in stock form with the stock suspension. How is this not an issue?

With a winch or steel bumpers. They're looking at 1/2 inch of travel. You're going to be hitting that bump stop 24/7.

There have been a number of people that fixed this issue with spacers or a lift on WranglerForums.
I never said it wasn't an issue.

I said one "could" damp a shock so it wouldn't crash into the bump at speed, but the ride would be horrible? Yes, I agree bump travel needs to be increased to work properly.

Again, the forums are pretty much just a place for people go around in a circle sniffing each other's butts while traveling in a circle while beating their chests going nowhere.
 

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I lifted my JTRD 3.5" and cut the aftermarket bump stop pads to allow 4" up travel. I have adjustable shocks that I'm not thrilled with, BUT, I only get bottoming out on the lowest 2 settings.

If there's a draw back it's that I get some inner fender rubbing at max flex. (Very rare.)
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