Is it possible to "print" these parts?

[ShadowsPapa]

Can the parts below be reproduced using a printer - and if so - is anyone willing to try (for money, of course)?

These are the insulators for the park switch on Prestolite windshield wiper motors. As you can imagine, we're talking anything from the early 1960s to 1972 for Prestolite wiper motors I work on (the years they were used by AMC)
I strip them completely, take them as far apart as I can get parts for, rewire, repair field windings, whatever, and I strip and zinc plate the parts as they originally were.
In removing the very fragile copper switch mounted on the plate that covers the gear housing, I have to drill out tiny rivets to remove the switch contacts and then 2 rivets to hold this insulator to the adjustable plate.
No matter how careful you are, these pieces are often already "crackled" from the heat and fumes of an engine compartment. Sometimes they come off just fine - and the brown ones seem to survive better, but different materials were used over the years and I have 3 of these Prestolite wiper motors to get done for a guy before next week.
I can rob from Prestolite wiper motors I have stashed away but am running out of good insulators and hate to rob from motors that have value and can be restored. It makes those motors worthless. These parts haven't been made for decades and even when Prestolite was still making them for car companies and selling parts, you had to buy the entire park switch cover assembly - and I've only found two new ones over the last 10 years.

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[Levi.Butler]

Yes. Easily. They would work great printed in ASA.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Yes. Easily. They would work great printed in ASA.

Sounds like you have and know the printers and processes.
What would it take to make them? What would the final color be?
And more importantly, what sort of cost is involved?


This is the part - the park switch assembly as it looks when correct -

This is the Inside or back side. The cam is driven by the gear under the cover.

 

[just_another_guy]

You could probably buy a sheet of bakelite and then make a Dremel jig to router out the details. That would get you an accurate reproduction with the same thermal properties/durability

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I'm being flooded with requests for restorations...........
Any further thought on someone being able to print these out?
There's no way I can afford the hour or so each to make these (and I've burned up 2 Dremels in the last 3 years.......)
The idea behind buying them is to get away from the time and resources it would take me to make a jig, and cut each one, drill it, make the notches or slits, etc. It would take a long long time, likely after I made a jig of some sort, an hour on each one.

Maybe I"m wrong and printed parts can't take engine bay heat - but to try to source the materials and spend the time making the parts is why I'm looking to buy - cut the time that it takes me to do each project and fixing parts or making parts would actually slow me down.

 

[Animal]

I agree these are printable but I second using a router jig would give you a better result. A cheap cnc could cut many of these from a single sheet of stock in far less time than it would take to print. I have printed a few things for my vehicles over the years, they have all failed from heat sooner or later if they resided in the engine bay or cabin. The only 3d printed accessory I have on my jeep anymore is a trailer hitch cover.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I agree these are printable but I second using a router jig would give you a better result. A cheap cnc could cut many of these from a single sheet of stock in far less time than it would take to print. I have printed a few things for my vehicles over the years, they have all failed from heat sooner or later if they resided in the engine bay or cabin. The only 3d printed accessory I have on my jeep anymore is a trailer hitch cover.

Just not equipped for DIY on these on equipment or time, So I guess I keep trying to salvage and repair.
I'd have to buy all of the tools needed then make a jig.

Thanks, anyway.

 

[Beemer533]

This could be cut on a CNC, but those slots would require really small bit. Also work holding would take a bit of work.

You'd have to do the holes first, put screws in and then cut the perimeter. Definitely doable, but tedious.

3d printing would be easier, but you would need to have a good idea of what kind of heat these will see to pick the proper material.

Personally, if it were me I'd draw it up in CAD and use one of the many online services. I'd probably go with laser or water jet for something like this.

https://sendcutsend.com/materials/

Probably a phenolic or g10 of some kind would be best. Delrin could also be an option, but I think it's only good up to about 180F sustained.

 

[Beemer533]

Not sure if you use CAD at all but if not I'd be willing to draw something up so you could get quotes.

 

[just_another_guy]

I've never used this company, but it might be worth looking into for getting a batch of these made:

https://sendcutsend.com

I can also help you make a .stl of the part if needed

 

[ShadowsPapa]

This could be cut on a CNC, but those slots would require really small bit. Also work holding would take a bit of work.

You'd have to do the holes first, put screws in and then cut the perimeter. Definitely doable, but tedious.

3d printing would be easier, but you would need to have a good idea of what kind of heat these will see to pick the proper material.

Personally, if it were me I'd draw it up in CAD and use one of the many online services. I'd probably go with laser or water jet for something like this.

https://sendcutsend.com/materials/

Probably a phenolic or g10 of some kind would be best. Delrin could also be an option, but I think it's only good up to about 180F sustained.

I can't say what material the originals are. Some are very smooth, some have some crackling to them. But you obviously know your materials and that's a help right there.

Might be getting somewhere - information can be a good as something in hand.

I can send damaged parts to someone (along with a bit of beer money) for drawings.
I barely use MS Paint.

 

[Beemer533]

I can't say what material the originals are. Some are very smooth, some have some crackling to them. But you obviously know your materials and that's a help right there.

Might be getting somewhere - information can be a good as something in hand.

I can send damaged parts to someone (along with a bit of beer money) for drawings.
I barely use MS Paint.

You don't need to send anything just yet, if you re-take that photo with the part on or next to the ruler from as straight above the part as possible I can trace and scale it properly in cad at least well enough get some quotes to see if it makes sense.

If you could give me the size of that drill bit that would help as well.

It looks like it is about a 1/16" in thickness?

If it ends up making sense to have them manufactured with one of those online places then I'd want an actual part in hand to verify before having anything actually made.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

You don't need to send anything just yet, if you re-take that photo with the part on or next to the ruler from as straight above the part as possible I can trace and scale it properly in cad at least well enough get some quotes to see if it makes sense.

If you could give me the size of that drill bit that would help as well.

It looks like it is about a 1/16" in thickness?

I can get far better pictures, the exact hole sizes and such. I have the hole gauge my father used, or my set of small drill bits.
The rivets are .085" diameter.
I can mic the thickness.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Hole size - .0937 (3/32") drill bit fits just right in the holes.
Thickness varies. I measured 3 of various age and colorations -

Trying to show hole spacing.
Hole placement and the slot placement and angles are critical. If the slots are off, the contacts won't line up when assembled.

 

[Beemer533]

That is pretty thorough, should be more than enough to get a good model started.

I'm driving back home from my current job in VA tomorrow, so I should have a model by Saturday most likely.

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