Reliability concerns

[Hootbro]

That is a lot of different issues for one vehicle. There is no Magic 8 Ball for what the future holds for it. I think you are just on the bad side of a bathtub curve of having all that up front rather than on the end.

I say your experience is not unheard of but not majority typical. Nobody can give you the warm fuzzy it will be alright down the road with 100% certainty. The adult decision is yours to make of either dumping/trading it now or ride it out. If the latter, I would buy a real MOPAR Care extended warranty (service contract) to hedge your bet.

Good Luck.

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[DAVECS2]

The last generation 3.6 cannot be lumped in with this engine.

The new engine has VVL mixed in with VVT and they have disabled the adjustable timing tables that were used in previous models to deal with weather and bad gas.

My guess is they did not have time or a good solution to octane maps combined with variable cam adjustments, dealing with dynamic lift.

The electrical issues should not be an issue but that is dealer dependant. The back window is really a foul up but a good glass company can usually take care of it.

I think this truck can be reliable but the owner needs to go above and beyond.

1. I would run high grade fuel
2. Oil needs changed often and quality oil and filters need to be used
3. Personally I like the z automotive locker fix, or aftermarket lockers
4. Doesn't hurt to go through the axles and suspension before going off road or long trips.

As for the flash file updates I am not a fan, infact it is one of the reasons I got frustrated. The newer updates actually dumb down cam actuation and airflow models along with taking timing out. Be real.interesting to dyno a 2020 to a 2022. I bet the olderone makes more power!

 

[ShadowsPapa]

The last generation 3.6 cannot be lumped in with this engine.

The new engine has VVL mixed in with VVT and they have disabled the adjustable timing tables that were used in previous models to deal with weather and bad gas.

My guess is they did not have time or a good solution to octane maps combined with variable cam adjustments, dealing with dynamic lift.

The electrical issues should not be an issue but that is dealer dependant. The back window is really a foul up but a good glass company can usually take care of it.

I think this truck can be reliable but the owner needs to go above and beyond.

1. I would run high grade fuel
2. Oil needs changed often and quality oil and filters need to be used
3. Personally I like the z automotive locker fix, or aftermarket lockers
4. Doesn't hurt to go through the axles and suspension before going off road or long trips.

As for the flash file updates I am not a fan, infact it is one of the reasons I got frustrated. The newer updates actually dumb down cam actuation and airflow models along with taking timing out. Be real.interesting to dyno a 2020 to a 2022. I bet the olderone makes more power!

Gas - 87 isn't 87 isn't 87. People need to look for top tier gas, and if the fuel at one station doesn't do well don't blame the octane, blame THAT fuel's octane. 87 from company A can behave differently than 87 octane from company B. Octane shift - still 87, but................... same for ANY fuel octane - 91 from one company may do better than 91 from another company.

I found pretty much no difference towing with my 2020 vs. my 2022. That's not dyno proof of anything, but if there are differences, it's not likely to be felt. And frankly, I think they are pushing these awfully hard driving these heavy vehicles trying to get more mpg and less CO2 out the back.
Amen on oil and filter - quality.

I have realized a new bug with mine - HVAC isn't working worth a crap lately, and the ambient temp sensor is lying. 81 degrees, it says - and it's 4.
The other day it was -4 yet said it was 100 degrees out. Cold air coming out dash vents even with heat set at 74.
So.............
But then the ambient temp sensor is a known thing, and the HVAC has been sort of odd since day one on the JT.

 

[Hootbro]

Gas - 87 isn't 87 isn't 87. People need to look for top tier gas, and if the fuel at one station doesn't do well don't blame the octane, blame THAT fuel's octane. 87 from company A can behave differently than 87 octane from company B. Octane shift - still 87, but................... same for ANY fuel octane - 91 from one company may do better than 91 from another company.

Pretty much this. All the different gas brands in a given area are all getting their gas from the same regional refinery that is blended to a base spec octane and can be pumped as is. The difference is when a "Tier 1" brand for example like Exxon, they are taking that gas and just adding their chemical add pack when they deliver it to their branded gas stations.

 

[ZoMojave]

The last generation 3.6 cannot be lumped in with this engine.

The new engine has VVL mixed in with VVT and they have disabled the adjustable timing tables that were used in previous models to deal with weather and bad gas.

My guess is they did not have time or a good solution to octane maps combined with variable cam adjustments, dealing with dynamic lift.

The electrical issues should not be an issue but that is dealer dependant. The back window is really a foul up but a good glass company can usually take care of it.

I think this truck can be reliable but the owner needs to go above and beyond.

1. I would run high grade fuel
2. Oil needs changed often and quality oil and filters need to be used
3. Personally I like the z automotive locker fix, or aftermarket lockers
4. Doesn't hurt to go through the axles and suspension before going off road or long trips.

As for the flash file updates I am not a fan, infact it is one of the reasons I got frustrated. The newer updates actually dumb down cam actuation and airflow models along with taking timing out. Be real.interesting to dyno a 2020 to a 2022. I bet the olderone makes more power!

This. As far as the "oil needs changed often" I couldn't agree more. I changed out the factory oil at 1,900 miles. I always change the factory stuff early. I use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and Mopar filters in all of my vehicles.

I then decided to change again at 5,000 to get on track with my planned 5K tire rotations. Interesting just how black and stenchy the oil was.

Now my JT has logged just under 6K miles. I plan 3K oil change intervals from here on out. $40 well spent in my opinion. Others may say it is a waste of $$ and/or resources but my 3.6 is buttery smooth and quiet.

 

[Casique]

Almost 2 years no issues!

 

[wachuko]

This. As far as the "oil needs changed often" I couldn't agree more. I changed out the factory oil at 1,900 miles. I always change the factory stuff early. I use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and Mopar filters in all of my vehicles.

I then decided to change again at 5,000 to get on track with my planned 5K tire rotations. Interesting just how black and stenchy the oil was.

Now my JT has logged just under 6K miles. I plan 3K oil change intervals from here on out. $40 well spent in my opinion. Others may say it is a waste of $$ and/or resources but my 3.6 is buttery smooth and quiet.

My plan as well.

But back to the OP comments… I got rid of my Chevy Colorado ZR2 Bison diesel because of reliability concerns…

Even if my JT Mojave was an impulse buy, I knew mpg was awful and I did not care… I wanted a Jeep so bad and I needed a bed for carrying stuff…

I was not aware of the check engine issues…got my first around 85 miles and (1) thinking it was just due to driving through heavy rain and (2) not wanting my wife to see it on a new vehicle, I cleared the code ?

Of course it did not show up when I went to the dealer…

Then I started reading here how common it was…not good…

Anyway, I wanted this JTM to be a vehicle that I would keep for a long, long, looong time… I sure hope it stays out of trouble…

 

[ZoMojave]

My plan as well.

But back to the OP comments… I got rid of my Chevy Colorado ZR2 Bison diesel because of reliability concerns…

Even if my JT Mojave was an impulse buy, I knew mpg was awful and I did not care… I wanted a Jeep so bad and I needed a bed for carrying stuff…

I was not aware of the check engine issues…got my first around 85 miles and (1) thinking it was just due to driving through heavy rain and (2) not wanting my wife to see it on a new vehicle, I cleared the code ?

Of course it did not show up when I went to the dealer…

Then I started reading here how common it was…not good…

Anyway, I wanted this JTM to be a vehicle that I would keep for a long, long, looong time… I sure hope it stays out of trouble…

I was aware of the reliability issue's some are having with their JT's when ordering mine. I wasn't deterred (obviously) from purchasing and currently having no issues with mine.

I was in the market for a daily driver mid-sized truck. I don't use it for off-road or overland adventures. I really enjoy my JT but am not in it for the long haul as I trade every three years.

 

[MrZappo]

3k oil changes and clearing codes for fear of wives.

Wow. I'll just keep my thoughts to myself.

 

[ZoMojave]

3k oil changes and clearing codes for fear of wives.

Wow. I'll just keep my thoughts to myself.

You know what the old line is...

 

[wachuko]

I have always done frequent oil changes in my vehicles... just as a preventive measure...

As to the wife... She did not wanted me to get a Jeep... She had a bad experience in one when she was young and since then, she would just avoid them.

We were dropping off our RV for tires replacement and I told her to just test drive the new JLU and the JT.... We never got to drive the JLU... She drove the JT Mojave and was pleasantly surprise of how well it drove... When she said "you need to buy this Jeep"... well, I bought it right then and there...

 

[ShadowsPapa]

My 2020 was 2.5 years and 27,000 miles old when I traded it. Very quiet amazingly smooth engine the whole time.
I believe the oil was changed 4 times in that time period.
Oil change intervals or needs will vary as much as the people who own and drive these.
There's no one formula. For me, it's not ideal, but not far from it, conditions it operates under. Mostly 30 minute+ drives, occasional towing but speeds kept down to 65 mph, except in the fall and spring, the air around here is fairly clean (all bets off in the fall - you may need a couple of air filter changes)
That's another reason the oil gets changed going into winter - fall harvest kicks up crazy amounts of dust into the air, and there's wild temperature and humidity swings so the oil is getting a bit of a work-out in the fall here. Don't want that crap sitting in it in the winter.
I go by "driving conditions" as much as miles on oil changes and always have.
For some, the 3,000 may well be a waste, for others - it's a good idea.

So those who criticize others for going too far with oil - that's your opinion, and may be correct for you - but not others. Look at the people who take these things way out there on miles and never change before 5,000 miles. Must not be a mistake, eh?

And those who criticize others for changing it too often - so? Their truck, their money - and for your driving situations it may be a gross waste of money and resources, but it's their waste to make. We don't know their driving circumstances, how they drive, where they drive, how much they idle, etc.

Only the first change in my 2020 was around 3,000 if I recall correctly, the rest went longer, depending on conditions and use.

Since most of the miles on my 2022 since the last oil change (which was also the first at about 2,000 miles) were steady highway miles, easy miles, it's gone much farther. The first oil was used for some towing, and since it was the first oil - it got out of there quickly. First oil plus towing, it's not staying in there long.

 

[FloridaMan655321]

On the gas comments, 1000000000% agree. I learned this while owning a BMW. I now tend to stick to Mobile/Exxon, Chevron, and (surprisingly) Marathon. Hess was also good, but now they are another company and I never went back. With the Gladiator I will also put in Amaco and Shell, as the Gladiator doesn't seem to be as temperamental as the BMW. If I ever have to fill up at a Racetrack or Wawa, I put in 93

 

[ShadowsPapa]

On the gas comments, 1000000000% agree. I learned this while owning a BMW. I now tend to stick to Mobile/Exxon, Chevron, and (surprisingly) Marathon. Hess was also good, but now they are another company and I never went back. With the Gladiator I will also put in Amaco and Shell, as the Gladiator doesn't seem to be as temperamental as the BMW. If I ever have to fill up at a Racetrack or Wawa, I put in 93

"Octane distribution". More of an issue in the past especially before direct injection. How that 87 octane behaves in a given vehicle is in part dependent on how the octane is achieved. Is it in lighter parts or heavier parts, for example.
They can all come up 87 octane, but the behavior will be different under different conditions.
I guess a better way to word it is - if the octane is distributed differently throughout the boiling range of a fuel than with another gasoline of the same octane, there can be differences in how the engine behaves. Again, worse in the past, but something to consider.
It's not usually the octane rating itself - it's how they've gotten there. And that varies with time of year in the U.S.

There's a push to get rid of the MON and certain other methods of determining octane because MON relies on a CARBURETED engine. It's an antiquated way of getting there.
How fuel is analyzed, tested and so on is already changing in other parts of the world - time for a change here in the states.

 

[ZoMojave]

We were dropping off our RV for tires replacement and I told her to just test drive the new JLU and the JT.... We never got to drive the JLU... She drove the JT Mojave and was pleasantly surprise of how well it drove... When she said "you need to buy this Jeep"... well, I bought it right then and there...

You're lucky. My wife hates the JT. She drove it once and said that it was the last time.

Oh well, more fun for me I guess!

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