Another ESS/Battery Question

[chorky]

I replaced it with a Genesis. full sized Dual battery system which solved my battery problem & still leaves the Jeep systems as designed. It won't void any Jeep warranty since it doesn't alter the system or how it works in any way. I've heard of others just bypassing the small battery, but I like the Genesis system better. It switches batteries when one gets drained past a certain voltage using a solenoid. It can jump your jeep as well if needed with the second battery. I got full throttle AGM batteries from Genesis when I purchased the system. On my SPOD LCD the voltages usually reading around 14.8v. even after sitting for a while. Prior to installing it I replaced both batteries twice under warranty, but I wanted to permanently solve the issue. Best accessory I've installed.

a couple clarifications. The genesis system sorta changes the function of the electrical system. It fully removes the aux battery from the system. ESS will still work, but a ESS event will run off of the main battery. It essentially puts everything on one battery instead of having a small battery for ESS specific events. It also does not ‘switch’ batteries. The battery closest to the cowl is the primary battery. Always. The new aux battery, closer to the grille, is disconnected from the main battery when the main batteries voltage drops to 12.7 or below. Then the aux battery only
powers whatever it is connected to while the primary battery (closest to the cowl) is still powering all vehicle systems.

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[porsharman]

Thanks, I've watched that video and did the aux batter delete. I took it for a short drive, but it didn't fix the ESS. Also, I have S-Tech switches because my gladiator didn't come factory with the Aux Buttons.

Just to be clear- I couldn't give two craps about the ESS system, but if it's a symptom of a larger issue I don't want to get stranded. The Aux battery killing my main battery and leaving me stranded would piss me off way more than the dumb ESS system never working again.

If you don’t care about ESS(I’m in your camp) get a Tazer which will keep the ESS off then delete your aux battery and pull your F42 fuse and you will be done. You will now have a one battery Jeep and will never be left stranded because of an auxiliary battery again.

 

[Panthers65]

If you don’t care about ESS(I’m in your camp) get a Tazer which will keep the ESS off then delete your aux battery and pull your F42 fuse and you will be done. You will now have a one battery Jeep and will never be left stranded because of an auxiliary battery again.

That's the plan long term, but for now because the ESS isn't working that tells me something else is going on that I want to make sure gets fixed.

I charged both batteries over the weekend, drove it this morning and the issue is still there. Voltage is 14.8 on the dash when driving, but Start/Stop still not ready.

 

[Deleted member 28696]

a couple clarifications. The genesis system sorta changes the function of the electrical system. It fully removes the aux battery from the system. ESS will still work, but a ESS event will run off of the main battery. It essentially puts everything on one battery instead of having a small battery for ESS specific events. It also does not ‘switch’ batteries. The battery closest to the cowl is the primary battery. Always. The new aux battery, closer to the grille, is disconnected from the main battery when the main batteries voltage drops to 12.7 or below. Then the aux battery only
powers whatever it is connected to while the primary battery (closest to the cowl) is still powering all vehicle systems.

I used all of the existing stock wires in the same locations it doesn’t change the electrical system at all or the design of the system. I’m not adding or taking away wires. I didn’t have to slice into a harness or any of that nonsense. I didn’t have to change anything in the computer. It’s basically a battery swap to a dual full sized battery. That has some smart functionality built into the battery cover that keeps your battery from fully draining & will switch over or ISOLATE the cranking battery over to the secondary battery when it drains to 12.7volts. Reserving enough power so that the vehicle continues to start. It can also combine both batteries for a jump. Either way it’s solved my battery issues which is the main point.

 

[chorky]

I used all of the existing stock wires in the same locations it doesn’t change the electrical system at all or the design of the system. I’m not adding or taking away wires. I didn’t have to slice into a harness or any of that nonsense. I didn’t have to change anything in the computer. It’s basically a battery swap to a dual full sized battery. That has some smart functionality built into the battery cover that keeps your battery from fully draining & will switch over or ISOLATE the cranking battery over to the secondary battery when it drains to 12.7volts. Reserving enough power so that the vehicle continues to start. It can also combine both batteries for a jump. Either way it’s solved my battery issues which is the main point.

im just clarifying on the words of your previous comment. Maybe there was a miscommunication is all

It does make a change though. the Genesis system has you leave the factory aux wire disconnected. This changes the system to no longer use that aux battery because it is removed. So it functions on the primary battery. It doesnt necessarily change whether or not the system operates but instead of pulling power off of the aux battery during a ESS event it pulls power from the main starting battery now.

I was also just clarifying the original post where it said the Genesis system switches batteries. Which it doesnt, but it isolates batteries like in your recent post. So whatever battery any accessory is hooked up to will continue to drain that battery but only that battery. So if someone had, say, camp lights hooked up to one of their factory auxiliary switches, then once the genesis system isolates the batteries from each other, because the aux switch is tied to the starting battery that battery will continue to be drained. Just trying to make clarifications so others dont get confused is all.

 

[Jeeperjamie]

If you don’t care about ESS(I’m in your camp) get a Tazer which will keep the ESS off then delete your aux battery and pull your F42 fuse and you will be done. You will now have a one battery Jeep and will never be left stranded because of an auxiliary battery again.

It's normally the main battery not charging the aux battery properly that leaves you stranded. It seems like your putting more load on the main battery, which doesn't seem like a smart idea either. My Aux Battery is still working in mine but I did have to have the main battery replaced and all has been going since then.

 

[Jeeperjamie]

That's the plan long term, but for now because the ESS isn't working that tells me something else is going on that I want to make sure gets fixed.

I charged both batteries over the weekend, drove it this morning and the issue is still there. Voltage is 14.8 on the dash when driving, but Start/Stop still not ready.

This seems very similar to my issue. I charged the main battery but the issue was still there with the Aux battery. 14 ish voltage on the dash and dealer told me the main had a bad cell, replaced, drove around 50 miles , ESS start working again.

 

[Dawn@WV]

I had engine start stop issues and key fob issues, they tested the batteries and then replaced under warranty. It worked great for a few months but then it’s acting up again, or when it’s cold, or on a short drive it’s acting up. So something is up with the batteries again.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

N1 goes straight to Aux battery positive. If you remove the ground from the Aux, you will get no supply voltage from the Aux. Therefore there will be no power at N1, instead at all times main battery power goes through N3 fuse down through the PCR at all times, down to the Aux positive terminal which goes back up to the N1 post and then powering the truck. Normal operation the N3 fuse solely charges the Aux and no more, now it is solely responsible for all power the Aux battery is responsible for. Again, it works, but personally I do not consider this a permanent solution. I might have to show my set up using the factory wiring since it’s free but very permanent just involves more work

True that the aux battery now doesn't power the N1 post - the MAIN battery does UNLESS the engine is running, then it's the charging system - and it's absolutely fine. There's not that much of a load. It will handle it. Many people have removed the aux battery ground and been FINE.
As long as the engine is running and the output from the alternator is greater than battery voltage, the ALTERNATOR powers things. He who has the most voltage/pressure, wins.
Power flows from source with highest voltage to the source with the lower voltage (or the load)

We've been over this for over a year and Jerry as well as others have indeed pulled that ground.
N3 is a huge fuse - more than capable of running all electronics and HVAC, cluster, heated seats and so on.
Heck, when the aux battery is bad N3 handles things anyway - the aux battery isn't doing it because it's bad. Open sell, weak cell, diminished capacity, whatever. Batteries don't run the systems, the charging system does. Even when the aux is fully charged, the charging system is running things. So normally, N3 is feeding things.

N3 down to PCR, back up to N1 past the aux battery positive. N3 powers things normally - the aux battery even if good is only 12.8 volts tops. The charging system is pushing out over 13 - so, tell me where the power is coming from ? Not the aux battery - from the alternator.

It works fine, many have done it, not only Jerry. There's no reason for it to not work long term.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

It's normally the main battery not charging the aux battery properly that leaves you stranded.

Main battery doesn't charge the aux battery. The alternator does that through N3.

I had engine start stop issues and key fob issues, they tested the batteries and then replaced under warranty. It worked great for a few months but then it’s acting up again, or when it’s cold, or on a short drive it’s acting up. So something is up with the batteries again.

If you drive only or mostly short drives (30 minutes or less) and let it sit for days between drives - you are more likely to have issues than other people.
When you say "acting up" - exactly what/how?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

You will now have a one battery Jeep and will never be left stranded because of an auxiliary battery again.

Unlikely to leave you stranded. Those are not common cases. Further, I suspect some people trying to jump aren't giving enough time before trying the dead vehicle after connecting to a battery source (jump pack or live vehicle)
To much "iffy" stuff on the internet.
Did you know that the main battery also goes bad "leaving people stranded"? Yeah, contrary to what you read out there.

 

[Dawn@WV]

Main battery doesn't charge the aux battery. The alternator does that through N3.



If you drive only or mostly short drives (30 minutes or less) and let it sit for days between drives - you are more likely to have issues than other people.
When you say "acting up" - exactly what/how?

Acting up - key fob won’t open the door, it’s reluctant to start, stop start won’t work.

 

[Panthers65]

Sounds like you have it connected fine. The charge will get to the aux battery through the PCR and other wiring.

I wonder if your truck is randomly detecting some misfires or something - it won't necessarily set the light, but will stop ESS from working until the system decides all is ok again - can take one or two big button stops and starts to go again if things were detected.
I'd love to get either JSCAN or AlfaOBD on that truck and see if there's something else going on.

Finally got my OBDII reader back and plugged the Jeep up today. It got a clean bill of health, no DTC codes found, but I did notice on the reader it was only reading 11.9V (engine off in the "run" position. Checked the dash and it read 12V.

 

[porsharman]

Unlikely to leave you stranded. Those are not common cases. Further, I suspect some people trying to jump aren't giving enough time before trying the dead vehicle after connecting to a battery source (jump pack or live vehicle)
To much "iffy" stuff on the internet.
Did you know that the main battery also goes bad "leaving people stranded"? Yeah, contrary to what you read out there.

Like I’ve indicated before I’m just speaking from experience not what is on the internet. IMHO there is no “iffy” about it….. the auxiliary battery will leave you stranded if you don’t know what to in the event your JL or JT dies for no apparent reason. You are correct that your main battery can go bad but it’s more apparent/remedied.

 

[porsharman]

It's normally the main battery not charging the aux battery properly that leaves you stranded. It seems like your putting more load on the main battery, which doesn't seem like a smart idea either. My Aux Battery is still working in mine but I did have to have the main battery replaced and all has been going since then.

My auxiliary battery was working fine as well but I have a Tazer so my ESS is always off. I do not believe I’m putting any extra load on my battery but I will know exactly what the problem is if it fails prematurely . I did not remove the auxiliary battery leads just taped them up and my auxiliary battery is on a trickle charge. So far no issues.

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