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Rear pinion angle

ducatijosh

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Hello. Got the back half of my Clayton 2.5” overland plus lift kit installed and noticed the rear pinion angle seems way off. Is this because I haven’t installed the front half of the lift yet? Or the slight driveway slope? Pretty sure I got the measurements right of the control arms.

Jeep Gladiator Rear pinion angle IMG_1229


Jeep Gladiator Rear pinion angle IMG_1227
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Hello. Got the back half of my Clayton 2.5” overland plus lift kit installed and noticed the rear pinion angle seems way off. Is this because I haven’t installed the front half of the lift yet? Or the slight driveway slope? Pretty sure I got the measurements right of the control arms.

IMG_1229.webp


IMG_1227.jpeg
Anything above a 2” lift, it’s recommended to add a carrier bearing spacer. It helps a ton, is cheap, and takes 10 minutes to install. That’s how mine looked until I added it.
 
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ducatijosh

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Hmm I have the same kit installed on my wrangler without issues, is it possible that I need to Hold the pinion at the correct angle with a jack while I tighten down the control arms? They’re still loose.
 

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Hmm I have the same kit installed on my wrangler without issues, is it possible that I need to Hold the pinion at the correct angle with a jack while I tighten down the control arms? They’re still loose.
Nope. The driveshaft angle is only adjusted with carrier bearing or adjusting rear control arms. The reason you don’t have an issue on your wrangler is because it’s a drastically shorter driveshaft. It’s also one piece in the rear if I remember correctly.
 
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ducatijosh

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Nope. The driveshaft angle is only adjusted with carrier bearing or adjusting rear control arms. The reason you don’t have an issue on your wrangler is because it’s a drastically shorter driveshaft. It’s also one piece in the rear if I remember correctly.
hmm. Well I do have all adjustable control arms. I set them to the length specified in the Clayton lift, lengthening the uppers should rotate it back more right? I’m just not sure if it’s off because I’m in my driveway or because the rear is way higher than the front while half installed.
 

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When you lift the front of the jeep the front of the pinion will come up too.
 

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hmm. Well I do have all adjustable control arms. I set them to the length specified in the Clayton lift, lengthening the uppers should rotate it back more right? I’m just not sure if it’s off because I’m in my driveway or because the rear is way higher than the front while half installed.
To correct pinion in the rear, shorten lowers and lengthen uppers, the exact same amount. I’d start with 1/4” on both. That will help your pinion angle without changing wheelbase.
 

NewGladdyOWNR

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To correct pinion in the rear, shorten lowers and lengthen uppers, the exact same amount. I’d start with 1/4” on both. That will help your pinion angle without changing wheelbase.
Ding ding ding. What he said ^. Also, put the jack under the pinion with your uppers disconnected at one end and jack up pinion to desired angle, then adjust upper rear control arms. I’d loosen the lowers when you do this, because your axle will rotate and you don’t want to bind the lower control arm bushings.
 

ShadowsPapa

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Anything above a 2” lift, it’s recommended to add a carrier bearing spacer. It helps a ton, is cheap, and takes 10 minutes to install. That’s how mine looked until I added it.
Didn't you go through a lot of this a while back, got it all just about right in the end?
 

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I think everyone missed what OP was asking. He lifted the rear and hasn’t lifted the front yet. Went from 2” rake (estimate) to 4.5” rake (another estimate) and is concerned about his pinion angle pointing down now.
 

ShadowsPapa

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The cross type joints are really simple to understand - if there's just one of that type on the shaft, run that joint as close to straight as possible. If there are two - one on each end, the angles of each need to cancel each other.
 

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I think everyone missed what OP was asking. He lifted the rear and hasn’t lifted the front yet. Went from 2” rake (estimate) to 4.5” rake (another estimate) and is concerned about his pinion angle pointing down now.
And the answer is - the height of the front doesn't matter. It's all in the angle of the joints and/or pinion.
Dan's been through this if I remember.
Single cardan joints need to be run straight (meaning if there's just one cross type joint on that shaft), if there's one at each end of the shaft, they need to cancel each other. Driveshafts 101.
Pitch of the truck doesn't matter for pinion or driveshaft angles. Raising the front up a foot won't fix poor pinion angle or improper driveshaft cardan joint angle.
 

jav_eee

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And the answer is - the height of the front doesn't matter. It's all in the angle of the joints and/or pinion.
Dan's been through this if I remember.
Single cardan joints need to be run straight (meaning if there's just one cross type joint on that shaft), if there's one at each end of the shaft, they need to cancel each other. Driveshafts 101.
Pitch of the truck doesn't matter for pinion or driveshaft angles. Raising the front up a foot won't fix poor pinion angle or improper driveshaft cardan joint angle.
Whether the angle is “poor” or not is not what OP asked. You’re saying on an incline (we’ve discussed this earlier today) where the nose is pointing down, the pinion won’t also be pointing down?

OP please wake up and clarify your question for us LOL
 

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Didn't you go through a lot of this a while back, got it all just about right in the end?
Last July. It worked out perfectly. Left it on the ground the whole time. Just jacked up the diff skid to raise the pinion. Arms were pre-measured before install. I’ve done it twice more since then. It’s really easy to just leave it on the ground. Lowers first, only one at a time. Then uppers, again only one at a time.
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