Un-lift a Rough Country lift

[YooperCracker]

My wife doesn't like climbing up into my Gladiator. Myself, I don't like the lifted look, looks out of balance to me (it was the only manual Gladiator around and it was a "relatively" good deal, so I went for it). So, I'm thinking of getting it de-lifted. What "new" parts will I need? For example, will the Rough Country shocks still work unlifted? How much should I expect to pay for the job? I'm assuming the 35s will still work fine at the stock height.

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[Zachanadandy]

Odds are the shocks will be too long and so will the front seat bar links from the photo. You could keep the bump stop spacer and swap the spring spacer out for a 1". At that point the shocks and sway links would still work. I'd guess your looking at around $500 for the labor.

 

[NGNERD]

I have a stock set of rubicon front springs, upper control arms, and track bar you can have free if your near Southwest Virginia. Also 4 original Rubicon Fox shocks, but they are worn and do not have many miles left if that helps. If the un-lift is DIY you can ask questions here, my experience is limited to only my lift on the front.

 

[YooperCracker]

I have a stock set of rubicon front springs, upper control arms, and track bar you can have free if your near Southwest Virginia. Also 4 original Rubicon Fox shocks, but they are worn and do not have many miles left if that helps. If the un-lift is DIY you can ask questions here, my experience is limited to only my lift on the front.

Thanks for the offer, but I'm in the far corner of Arkansas. It's a bit too far to drive.

As to the DIY, I've replaced a head gasket (toyota corolla) and a rear differential (international scout). That's the extent of my auto wrenching. Is de-lifting something a handy novice could do on a driveway?

 

[Great Offender]

I'm pretty sure there are videos on "how to" for the RC lifts. I would watch the videos or read the instructions and "deconstruct" the setup by working backwards. You'll see the new parts being installed for the lift so just replace those parts with stock or stock matching and you should be fine. No, I have never done it but that's how I would approach it.

 

[YooperCracker]

Odds are the shocks will be too long and so will the front seat bar links from the photo. You could keep the bump stop spacer and swap the spring spacer out for a 1". At that point the shocks and sway links would still work. I'd guess your looking at around $500 for the labor.

I tried to find this shock on the RC website, but I couldn't find a matching part number. Some of their shocks are ok for stock height.

Also, do I have a lift kit or a leveling kit. I'm new to this.

 

[Great Offender]

Also, do I have a lift kit or a leveling kit.

Can you see the top of the front spring? Is there a spacer puck in there? If you need reference on a spacer puck you can visit the RC web site to see one.

Edit: Hard to say from the photo but it looks like a spacer. ?

 

[Scott L]

I don’t know why you couldn’t just remove the spacers and change the shocks. You might need to realign everything when you’re done but that’s all very doable in your garage or driveway.

 

[NGNERD]

You can do yourself if no hurry, a helper just to hold / pass tools is a huge plus. I recommend good jack stands, know how high you will need them to be before you set them, a good, smooth, floor jack or two. Research RC website to learn what you have and it's components so you know what needs to be swapped, and you tube lift videos. Lots of folks more educated than me on this forum for sure. If you do it yourself then you will know how to troubleshoot, I learned a great deal about suspensions just having done my front lift myself which will serve you well.

 

[Proximo]

I tried to find this shock on the RC website, but I couldn't find a matching part number. Some of their shocks are ok for stock height.

Also, do I have a lift kit or a leveling kit. I'm new to this.

Looks like the 2.5" level. You have to look at the rear springs to see if any pucks back there

 

[Camaroboi13]

Just a spacer lift, you can remove the spacers, end links, and shocks and replace with original parts and be good. It can be done in the garage with a buddy. Just a jack and some jack stands, and some basic hand tools.

 

[pjohnston]

Which far corner of Arkansas? I am in the NW part. You can try 479 Off-Road Service and Repair. I will bet they can at least give you some recommendations.

Paul

 

[Russ2023]

My wife doesn't like climbing up into my Gladiator. Myself, I don't like the lifted look, looks out of balance to me (it was the only manual Gladiator around and it was a "relatively" good deal, so I went for it). So, I'm thinking of getting it de-lifted. What "new" parts will I need? For example, will the Rough Country shocks still work unlifted? How much should I expect to pay for the job? I'm assuming the 35s will still work fine at the stock height.

I’m a little confused. Every Gladiator I’ve seen on dealer lots with the Rough Country package come with 37x12.5 R20’s. Yours came with 35’s?

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

I’m a little confused. Every Gladiator I’ve seen on dealer lots with the Rough Country package come with 37x12.5 R20’s. Yours came with 35’s?

Now I'm confused too. A Rough Country package? Never heard of it.

 

[Russ2023]

Now I'm confused too. A Rough Country package? Never heard of it.

I don’t know what’s included on them either other than those 37’s. They probably had different rock guards and such but I’ve never really looked at them that close. You could look up Moritz Jeep in Ft. Worth as they had 3-4 Rough Country rigs on the lot yesterday. Maybe they list exactly what’s in the package. The only RC bit I have is the bed liner.

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