Think Im done with Jeep, guys.

[RoamingGladiator]

What rust? Where? There's not a lot to rust on these other than suspension parts, axle tubes/differential castings, frames and other areas.
4 months? Something smells fishy here.
Can't buy it. Not at 4 months. No way it had "significant rust" unless you are anal about some surface rust on frames and suspensions. Even at that, I live in Iowa - one of the salt capitals of the USA - and it gets driven in CRAP, slime, brine, salt, snow, ice - and owning JTs since November 2019, no rust that isn't normal wear and tear.
Since most body panels are aluminum, you can't be talking body.

As a lifetime Jeep owner who lives in Canada, frame/suspension rust is 100% expected extremely quickly. It just is what it is lol... especially if you wheel and ding shit up. I carry a spray can of mopar black and a little piece of cardboard, which makes for quick touch-ups. I too call BS on significant rust after 4 months, that's just no feasible even if you live in the rust belt.

My 2021 has zero body rust, its mint condition minus a bit of that aluminum corrosion that's happening on the edge of my hood.

Sponsored

 

[ShadowsPapa]

As a lifetime Jeep owner who lives in Canada, frame/suspension rust is 100% expected extremely quickly. It just is what it is lol... especially if you wheel and ding shit up.

I know - two of the guys in my Tuesday coffee group are restoring "classic Jeeps" and on a jeep, much of the "frame off" process is frame restoration.
The guy i sold my NOS (new old stock) never been in a vehicle ever 258 to was doing a restoration and the frame was as much part of it as the tub.

Yeah, we know rust.......

This was supposed to be attached. Other pics show frame sections dropping off and the steering box hanging loose from the frame rail.

 

[RoamingGladiator]

I know - two of the guys in my Tuesday coffee group are restoring "classic Jeeps" and on a jeep, much of the "frame off" process is frame restoration.
The guy i sold my NOS (new old stock) never been in a vehicle ever 258 to was doing a restoration and the frame was as much part of it as the tub.

Yeah, we know rust.......

This was supposed to be attached. Other pics show frame sections dropping off and the steering box hanging loose from the frame rail.

It's just all part of the journey in the rust belt haha. Fluid film works pretty well but doesn't seem to get it all for the frame/suspension parts. Rust converter for the surface rust and mopar black does wonders!

 

[Stan H]

It's just all part of the journey in the rust belt haha. Fluid film works pretty well but doesn't seem to get it all for the frame/suspension parts. Rust converter for the surface rust and mopar black does wonders!

Links for both of those please!!?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Links for both of those please!!?

Make sure it's a rust CONVERTER, not just cover, encapsulate, etc.
It needs to have tannin in it.

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Neutralizer-10-25-Fluid-Aerosol-633877/dp/B001AZLA08?th=1

Can also get brush-on treatment -

Rustoleum makes a version, Permatex, Loctite, etc. all make versions.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81849-Treatment-10-25-Aerosol/dp/B000BKC25K

I posted Amazon links but places like Fleet Farm, the better O'Reilly's stores and others carry the above or other brands

I've written on it in the past for automotive restoration sites, how it works, what it does, what it doesn't do (don't treat and then leave it - you need to put on a top coat of something else, preferably not water-based)

One of the restoration societies in Canada uses it on wrought iron and other antiquities.

Fluid film you can easily find as well.

 

[RoamingGladiator]

Links for both of those please!!?

ShadowPapa hit the nail on the head.

I follow a four-step process pretty much every year before winter and I'll do some touch ups over the summer as needed.

1. Pressure wash the underside with that Ryobi rolling spray thing, forget the actual name to clean it all up
2. Spray all visible rust with a rust converter (I use Rustoleum, usually on sale at Home Depot here in Canada), I use a piece of cardboard to stop overspray on things I don't want to hit which is really only the shocks and joints. Otherwise, I paint over everything.
3. Wait a little bit (Depends on the converter you use) and hit it with your final paint. I normally use the Mopar black paint or Rustoleum has one as well that is pretty much identical for frame paint.
4. Sometimes I'll give it a nice spray with fluid film, or I'll just go to my local rust shop and have them do it

I'm likely going to try a new route this year... fluid film has a black version now that replaces the paint. So I think I'm going to go with just washing, rust converter, and then right to fluid film black.

 

[Stuntman Mike]

It's just all part of the journey in the rust belt haha. Fluid film works pretty well but doesn't seem to get it all for the frame/suspension parts. Rust converter for the surface rust and mopar black does wonders!

I don't believe in Fluid Film over the long run.

After I bought my Gladiator I brought it to a shop where it was treated whith Fertan UBS 240 and all hollow spaces with this stuff.

Hope that will last for the next 20 years ...

 

[RoamingGladiator]

I don't believe in Fluid Film over the long run.

After I bought my Gladiator I brought it to a shop where it was treated whith Fertan UBS 240 and all hollow spaces with this stuff.

Hope that will last for the next 20 years ...

Definitely something I'm thinking of exploring as well. My axles are looking a little rough this year, I'm replacing my entire suspension/steering this summer so while I have it apart I'm going to give everything a little extra loving. Sand, rust converter/primer, solid coats of paint, and then have it professionally rust coated.

Living right beside Lake Ontario + the amount of salt we use makes for lovely frames.

 

[MeiMei]

That sucks. If you still want a removable top, the Bronco is your only choice, but Ford has issues with difficulty of maintenance and aftermarket . A 4Runner might be the next best thing. They are reliable, but incredibly boring.

 

[AXISJT]

That sucks. If you still want a removable top, the Bronco is your only choice, but Ford has issues with difficulty of maintenance and aftermarket . A 4Runner might be the next best thing. They are reliable, but incredibly boring.

The removable top is nice but I don't use it too much and if I do it's just the freedom panels which isn't much different than a large moonroof. Jeep Cares is looking into my case and I'm waiting for them to respond. It clearly states on the service paper "turbo must be replaced" which should be covered under warranty. Even If I can get it fixed I may still trade it in and just move to a full size with a naturally aspirated engine. Every turbo I have had has issues with the turbo itself and heat and it's just tiresome.

 

[TinMan2020]

That sucks. If you still want a removable top, the Bronco is your only choice, but Ford has issues with difficulty of maintenance and aftermarket . A 4Runner might be the next best thing. They are reliable, but incredibly boring.

Not next years model 4Runner. Complete overhaul.

 

[TinMan2020]

It wasn't the service Manager, he thought it would be covered but every time he was trying to submit a work order he was getting a kickback saying not covered, so he brought it to his Service Director, and then they brought it to Mopar who explained that bullshit emissions warranty thing. Even after that, he said he tried to put the work order in under a "Good Will" clause but the cost of the work order was to much.

This is all at Gupton Motors in Springfield TN which is a fairly well-known dealership on this Forum.

So after that point, he said all he could do was give me the number to the Jeep cares and I could try and hash it out with them.

I picked the truck up this morning and it drives ok as of now with no check engine light. So figure instead of going through a war with them to actually take care of it then wait however long it would take to get fixed I'll clean it up and trade it in somewhere.

I live in middle TN. I heard Gupton was a good dealer. Reads like they tried at least. I can’t even get the dealer in Murfreesboro to straighten a steering wheel under the 12 month/12,000 mile warranty without flack. lol.

 

[MeiMei]

The removable top is nice but I don't use it too much and if I do it's just the freedom panels which isn't much different than a large moonroof. Jeep Cares is looking into my case and I'm waiting for them to respond. It clearly states on the service paper "turbo must be replaced" which should be covered under warranty. Even If I can get it fixed I may still trade it in and just move to a full size with a naturally aspirated engine. Every turbo I have had has issues with the turbo itself and heat and it's just tiresome.

I don’t blame you. I am a manual guy; but if I wasn’t, there are some awesome alternatives for half tons and I would go that route. I have a 34 year old Ram Truck that still starts every time, original. Natural Aspirated last decades if you take care of them. I was able to get the best extended warranty via Jeep Wave/Jeep care. Good luck.

 

[Stan H]

Definitely something I'm thinking of exploring as well. My axles are looking a little rough this year, I'm replacing my entire suspension/steering this summer so while I have it apart I'm going to give everything a little extra loving. Sand, rust converter/primer, solid coats of paint, and then have it professionally rust coated.

Living right beside Lake Ontario + the amount of salt we use makes for lovely frames.

If one uses a wire wheel on a drill sand sandpaper why the converter ? Why not go to the primer and then paint.

 

[Stan H]

The removable top is nice but I don't use it too much and if I do it's just the freedom panels which isn't much different than a large moonroof. Jeep Cares is looking into my case and I'm waiting for them to respond. It clearly states on the service paper "turbo must be replaced" which should be covered under warranty. Even If I can get it fixed I may still trade it in and just move to a full size with a naturally aspirated engine. Every turbo I have had has issues with the turbo itself and heat and it's just tiresome.

More than likely it's cool down time and additive . The other thing that affects turbos and I have owned 2 and never had a problem is the engines have to be worked so the turbo ain't eating so much garbage and the converter also. Worked hard then let then cool down . On the Cummins there was an actual amount of time stated as to how long to allow to cool down depending on how they were driven.
But hey if it was me I would trade it off for a Gas 3.6L. At slow crawling speeds all the time a turbo will NOT last. That is why I was shaking my head when I first seen the diesels come out in the jeep brand. Not a good thing. A diesel without a turbo has very little power but will last and last and last .

Sponsored