ARE and LEER fiberglas canopies

[chorky]

Looking to get some input on the following canopy options. I am pondering the idea of switching up canopies for a fun little project.

Leer 100S
Leet 100XQ
ARE V series
ARE CX Classic

A critical component

• flat roof inline with Jeep hard top as close as possible

The two primary needs are

• Which offers side window/door
• Dynamic weight rating/construction

I am mostly curious about

• How much it weighs
• How the fit is (in line with the Jeep hard top, or above or below?)
• How much rear space is lost due to the angle of the back glass.

From what I have been able to find, it looks like the Leer 100XQ best matches the overall look and feel of the JT and also has the least slanted rear glass so your not loosing so much space. See quoted post below.

I have the Leer top. Matches the OEM hard top the best in my opinion

However, I dont think it has provisions for a side bin, and I can't tell if it has options for side opening window doors.


ARE CX Classic looks to be a runner up, and I like the mounting brackets they use.

They also seem to have a nice super flat roof, which is very important for my needs. But the back end slants hard and it looks like you loose 6-10 inches of room. See quote below.

Ordered: 04/15
Installed: 08/26

Options:

• Trim-less edge (only option)
• Aluminum Framed Tilt-Down Sliding Window (front)
• Outdoorsman Vented Windoor (both sides)
• Aluminum Framed Single T Door Standard Option
• Dark Gray Headliner (promotion)
• Interior Clothes Rod x4
• Roof Tracks Only
• It's clamped in using the Trail Rail system.

Reasoning:

• This is my first shell and this style is what I know and how to use.
• I like the way it looks better than the metal "overland" shells, there I said it - looks matter. This is my only vehicle therefore it's a daily driver that I take places not the other way around. I didn't want a bunch of crap hanging off it it all the time. I am an apartment dweller so taking all the things off and storing them when I'm not camping just isn't ideal for me.
• I've been sleeping in ground tents or the bed of trucks since I could drive. I see no reason to change that now given my living/storage situation. I have a Gazelle tent that sets up and tears down very quick, (even with guy lines for wind), that has proven itself camping across the country over an eight day trip though wind, rain, snow and ice (moving daily - except two days in Moab - to a new campgrounds/national parks during the heart of the pandemic last year).
• Besides the above detail I mostly "base camp" for at least a few days before moving on so a ground tent or sleeping out of the bed is fine. Yes, it's a 5' bed but I'm a side sleeper and curl up anyway. Been doing this since my Mexico surf trips back in the early 90s in my Ranger, (no shell).
• Aluminum Framed Tilt-Down Sliding Window (front): Wanted to be able to get at the rear glass on the Gladiator to clean it. Small passthrough for things.
• Outdoorsman Vented Windoor (both sides): A buddy of mine has this option on his Leer and it's invaluable to get at things, leave them open to get air in the back, if you're hanging out in there out of the sun on a siesta, etc.
• Aluminum Framed Single T Door Standard Option: I asked the dealer what the stronger option was between the single and double handle and they said the single. That said, the windoors are double with no other option.
• Dark Gray Headliner (promotion): This seems to be a default promotion they run for getting the shell. It looks good! I imagine if you got the grey BedRug kit for the tub it would look really nice depending on your intended use. My Gladiator came with the factory Line-X sprayed in.
• Interior Clothes Rod x4: These are spring loaded handles that you pull out of their compartment in the ceiling of the shell. I had them put one in each corner. You can use them to hang stuff from, run a tie-down or something between them to create a clothes line type situation to hang things from, maybe have netting from them so you have some overhead storage across the entire shell, who knows? If they never get used they aren't going to interfere with anything that I know of.
• Roof Tracks Only: I don't like the rack options the dealer had and not sure if I want a rack. The dynamic limit on these tracks is unknown. The dealer will be very vague about it. Their paraphrased response to me was it depends on the rack you install and that manufacturers dynamic load limit. The response was shady at best as they wouldn't sell an HD version if the roof tracks were that good. I wouldn't put more than 100 lbs. on the roof tracks personally and that might be pushing it. Firewood, other things you don't want in the bed for some reason but nothing like a roof top tent. This is my personal opinion - not fact. Do as you please at your own risk.
• Weight: ARE's website says it's maybe 175 lbs. (Full & Mid Short Bed line)

My Opinions:

• Trail Rail clamps: They situated the shell on mine so the back lines up with the tailgate. This means it's also much closer to the hard top and looks good. You will see a lot of pictures of the shell installed on this forum where it's misaligned in the back, (hanging over), and after holding the installer hostage as we did a walkthrough I think I got to the bottom of why this is. If it's clamped in using the Trail Rail system there is a limit as to how far something can be inserted into the Trail Rail towards the front of the bed. There are metal plates in the shell where the clamp is supposed to clamp down on instead of contacting the fiberglass. This cannot be done properly due to the Trail Rail system limitations at the front and rear of the rail as it has notches so you can insert the tie down clamps into the rail. So, I think installers push the shell back some to allow for the clamp to contact the metal plate instead of fiberglass to secure it. My installer lined up the shell but this means my front clamps are contacting fiberglass and not the metal plates. Installer said this "should be okay". We'll see. (I've seen this misalignment complaint from others here and I think that's why the installer does this.)
• Fit and Finish:
  • Paint match is excellent.
  • They had to add extra rubber seal/padding to the bottom of the shell to give it a slight lift off the bed sides as if they didn't it would rub on the paint along the sides of the bed. The overhang on the sides seems to be too much for the Gladiator and a couple other models of truck where this is needed to avoid damage to the paint. This must be a somewhat generic shell mold for a bunch of models otherwise they would correct this I would think?
  • Along the tailgate left and right edges of the shell there is not a clean finish. There is a rough cut and fiberglass threads,(or some other material), hanging out instead of having a rubber trim edge being installed to clean it up. Lazy. I've seen this complaint from others.
  • It looks excellent and I got what I paid for.
• Durability:Can't comment on this. Just shy of a month of ownership and it hasn't faced any off-road abuse yet. Washboord trails in the desert etc. We'll see if I have to figure out a new system to secure it after those types of scenarios happen. I'd hate to drill the bed rails to secure it with bolts so we'll see. I wonder why they don't build a lip that goes over the bed rails into the bed maybe one inch to help keep it in place, (at least side to side and dynamic forces that would push it forward into the cab).
  • Update 2024: It's been on plenty of off-road trips out to the desert and mountains and I see no wear and tear on it. The bed has been flexed, off camber etc. I did chip the paint on one of the leading edges near the top scraping through some tight trails at some point. Nothing a paint pen couldn't take care of which they actual give you as part of the purchase if I remember right. I just don't know where I put it.
• Ride:
  • Stock suspension: The Rubicon rides mushy to begin with and this did not change the ride quality to anything worse than it is that I can tell. It also has not changed the ride height that I can tell. I did not do before/after measurements as it didn't matter, I was getting it anyway. I plan to replace the suspension at some point. I've had AEV suspensions in the past and might go that way again with the 2.5" but there's also the Mopar 2" although I'm unsure if it's the same ride quality the Rubicon already exhibits but lifted, ie. not good in my opinion. I do not like the factory Rubicon ride, it's mushy and seems to fight itself between front and rear and corners, (before and after shell was installed). I've owned many trucks and this is by far the most bizarre ride to me. However it is the first truck I've owned without rear leaf springs. Loved the AEV 3.5" lift on my JKR so I'm leaning that way.
  • Current suspension: I installed the AEV 2.5" lift in 2022 and it's been great as expected.

Obligatory picture (updated):

I'll update this post if anything else comes up.

If you have any questions about the shell or would like to see any other pictures of it let me know. Happy to help.

edit: Added weight from another post since I was being asked multiple times.

ARE offers a general weigh spec of 'short bed' 120-130 pounds, but Leer does not offer any weight spec at all. I am also curious if anyone has specs on the internal design/construction underneath the fiberglass.

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[BennieD]

Love my ARE. I got the side tool box with window lift and regular slide window on passenger. Clean look. Lines up well

 

[chorky]

Love my ARE. I got the side tool box with window lift and regular slide window on passenger. Clean look. Lines up well

How flat is the roof. And how much space is lost due to the rear curvature?

 

[BennieD]

very flat and level with jeep roof. very little curvature. It is almost straight up

 

[chorky]

very flat and level with jeep roof. very little curvature. It is almost straight up

It looks like there is no option for side opening windows. Do you know if that's true?

EDIT: oops, I'm thinking of the LEER. The ARE does look to have side opening windows The Leer looks like it does not.

Could you share a photo of how much the back of the canopy curves in? From the pics I have found it looks like it curves enough to loose 6-10 " of storage space.

 

[Nobody]

This is the ARE the cb antenna sits back 2inches from the back of the tailgate. At the top of the camper the measurement is 10inches. So the “slope” is about 8inches from bottom to top

 

[JTGuy]

I have the ARE with Over land windows , its been a perfect match. No dust inside.

 

[Vtur]

Here's another angle with the ARE cap. I choose to bolts it down instead, and drilled the holes through the existing bed rail cap plastic clips so no damaged to the steel bed. 5/16 or M8 bolts would fits nicely. I also used unistrut nuts underneat the bed rail channels, makes installation easy with just one wrench, especially if your has the trail rails system.

 

[chorky]

This is the ARE the cb antenna sits back 2inches from the back of the tailgate. At the top of the camper the measurement is 10inches. So the “slope” is about 8inches from bottom to top

Perfect this is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you!

Now if someone has a similar shot for the LEER for comparison that would be great!

 

[chorky]

Did anyone have any side profile pics of the Leer topper option? Curious also about the windows, they appear to be solid and not able to open - I wonder how hard it would be to make opening windows....

 

[Cburd61]

I have the basic Leer. (Still a bit pricey). The side windows fan out at the rear about 2” or so. They don’t open all the way. I’m not sure if you can get the sliders like ARE has. I had an ARE on my Rams, and I really can’t say which I like best.

 

[asrricklin]

Question since we are discussing the features here. Does the window towards the cab open on any of these? I've had a hard time figuring that out for product listings

 

[chorky]

I have the basic Leer. (Still a bit pricey). The side windows fan out at the rear about 2” or so. They don’t open all the way. I’m not sure if you can get the sliders like ARE has. I had an ARE on my Rams, and I really can’t say which I like best.

So it looks like the back end of yours curves a LOT less than the ARE.

See mine with the RLD and RTT for reference, which is totally flat

I'm curious if you could get a rough measurement like @Nobody did above in post #6 for me. Also curious if the roof of the Leer canopy is flat or if it has any amount of a curve to it. Like how mine is completely flat so the RTT can mound directly to the canopy.

 

[Cburd61]

So it looks like the back end of yours curves a LOT less than the ARE.

See mine with the RLD and RTT for reference, which is totally flat

I'm curious if you could get a rough measurement like @Nobody did above in post #6 for me. Also curious if the roof of the Leer canopy is flat or if it has any amount of a curve to it. Like how mine is completely flat so the RTT can mound directly to the canopy.

Yes, it’s a lot flatter than the ARE. I’ll try to get a measurement tomorrow.

 

[chorky]

As stated by my local Leer dealer for the above canopy

"What is the dynamic weight capacity?"
The dynamic weight capacity is approximately 300lbs.

"Can this be color-matched to the factory “Sarge Green”?"
Before we confirm any orders we get the paint code from your vehicle to ensure exact color match. Generally speaking, we like to see the vehicle to measure the bed of your truck, get the VIN and paint code.

"If there is an option for the rear windows to flip up/open?"
Yes, there are multiple window options available with additional costs. The ones that open fully are called Radius Side Windoors. The Cost would be $200 per side.

"Can the rear and side doors be locked/unlocked with the key fob?"
Keyless entry is an additional option at $529

So hopefully the pictures Cburd61 can share show a mostly straight back which is what it looks like in their previous post.

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